What type of oil to use in a 1920's Studebaker?

[Cultural_infidel]

Got a customer who was asking me about what kind of oil to use in his 29 Stude. He has heard something about modern oils being incompatible with the original brass parts? Looking for Trans, Engine, and rear dif oils.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Just trying to help him out

[rockinhawk]

BP's expertise is needed here. Where are you,Bob?

[Deaf Mute]

I'm not Bob... but the customer is correct, don't use "over the counter" oils.
Here is a supplier I trust; They also keep a lot of "Tractor Pullers" supplied with quality oils:

CEN-PE-CO
S3 Engine oil
API, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4
CF, CE, CD, SH, SG, SF

SAE 10W-30 Paraffin base

Walcott, IA

http://www.cen-pe-co.com/

Anti-Wear Additives have traditionally contained phosphorus, which may contribute to catalytic converter deposits. This additive group has proven to be highly effected over the past 40 years, so the auto manufacturers have not banned it, but limited its use (0.08%). Cen-Pe-Co Super Racing Oil does not meet new car requirements because it has too much anti-wear additive, but it provides super performance for racing engines.

This oil is available for purchase at their plant in Walcott, at 201 E. Lincoln Street. They have been in the petroleum business since 1911 and know what our engines need. They ship daily all over the world.

Technical Support: blaine@cenpeco.com

[Bud]

Just about any engine oil produced today is far superior to what was used in 1929. A straight 30 or 15W-40 detergent oil from one of the major suppliers will be good for that engine. Racing oils and other exotic oils are overkill for that engine as it originally ran on non detergent oil with little or no additives. The engine runs at low speed and has very low valve spring pressure so cam lobe failure due to lower ZDDP in the new oils isn't a problem. Don't worry about loosening crud in the oil pan using a detergent oil as it won't loosen major chunks of sludge which could clog something. Bud

[Dan Timberlake]

I think the "yellow metal" (bronze/brass etc) compatibility is an issue with some hypoid gear oils.
Some almost modern cars (Peugot) used a worm gear rear end with the non-worm gear made of bronze, and they call for a mineral type gear oil.
Similarly cars with bronze synchro rings call for gear oil with low GL rating.
Some specialty MT ( manual trans ) oils have appeared.

The first line of defense in many lubricated systems is the oil viscosity, so I would hesitate to go any thinner than the original spec

[raprice]

I used to own a Model T Ford. A number of years ago, the "Vintage Ford", the magazine published by the Model T Ford Club of America, printed a very thoughtful article on which oil to use in a Model T. The conclusion was that, even though the standard oil used in the past was non-detergent SAE 30, owners of Model Ts should consider using a detergent oil 10W-30, or even 5W-30. The modern oils seemed to perform well and didn't pose any hazard to the engine or transmission. The engine and transmission in the Ford uses a common crankcase. I have to wonder if this would be the case with a '29 Studebaker. The Ford uses a number of bronze parts in the transmission.
Food for thought.
Rog