I will email pix 2-U. Body is a solid one from W TX but will need some minimal floor repair, or you could save a big bundle & buy my 65K original mile OK Silver Hawk driver.
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Silver Hawk / pillared coupe, body
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Here's another thought. If you get the body shell from Barry, one of these folks that thinks fixing yours is not a big deal will surely want to buy it and fix it for themselvesPat Dilling
Olivehurst, CA
Custom '53 Starlight aka STU COOL
LS1 Engine Swap Journal: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/jour...ournalid=33611
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If it were my choice I'd go with Barry. But also I would go one step further & media blast the inner panels first, then spray on some POR 15 over the inner panels, reassemble the outer fenders, caulk & paint the exterior. Up to 1964 Studebaker never did anything for rust prevention & the 64 proceedure was a stop gap at best. The other manufacturers were starting to dip their cars in at least a primer solution, but Studebaker, with its antique plant in South Bend, couldn't do anything like that, so we're stuck today with what we have. Fortunatly there are better materials out there today & when we invest our time & sweat the outcome is alot better.59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
64 Zip Van
66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
66 Cruiser V-8 auto
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Originally posted by mike super View PostThe better piece you begin with the better the end result.
Easy for anyone to say they addressed worse case scenerios and survived. NOT ME.....my 6th sense precludes projects so ambitious it is detrimental to my wallet....for my time effort and engery is worth more.
Avanti, Bob
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You nailed it Bob....there is more than a single means to an end. I but voiced my opinion. I concur....to each their own.Last edited by mike super; 06-30-2012, 02:32 AM.
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Originally posted by warrlaw1 View PostI don't believe anyone thought fixing a C/K body is not a big deal. We were trying to help. What are you trying to do?Pat Dilling
Olivehurst, CA
Custom '53 Starlight aka STU COOL
LS1 Engine Swap Journal: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/jour...ournalid=33611
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Even swapping a rusty body for a solid shell,there's still plenty of work after that-to "make it your own" or to "know what you have" I repaired my own shell,likely about as bad as the OP's.. If I had to do it again,I'd definitely start with a solid shell.Oglesby,Il.
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