Newbie (1951 Champion) Questions -- Brakes

[RadioRoy]

So what has been happening on this? Is the car back on the road? Does Midas have the magic touch?

[tviner]

Two Weeks in the SHOP

The update is that finding a Hill Holder NOS is tough. Studebaker International wants me to get a rebuild kit and says you can't buy a new one or that they don't have one. They do have it in their catalog, though. Anyway...my reading says that rebuilding it is not a sure thing and that you might still have leaks...lady at International did not agree with that proposition. We went round and round initially due to a difference in terminology (Hill Holder versus "anti-creep" device).

The generator news is much better. I (guy at Midas set it up) am having a guy in-town rebuild it. That sounds promising.

I ask for your ideas about the Hill Holder. Am I missing something here? It seems like it should like any part and I should be able to buy and have it installed. It is connected the brake system and I need it to stop leaking or need to bypass it. Correct? Studebaker Intl wants to sell me a bypass device. I don't understand this piece of it. I just miss driving it really.

There's the update. Three other issues: Gas gauge doesn't work. Horn doesn't work. Trunk won't latch. there is a latch piece there and the trunk latch device appears operational. It seems the latch piece attached to the body (the receiving piece which I am sure has a name) seems too short. Anybody have an idea?

Thanks all.

tom

[52-fan]

Regarding the trunk latch problem. Has the gasket around the trunk been replaced? It may be thicker than the original and need time to get sqeezed down. There is some up and down adjustment to the latch piece on the edge of the opening, but if its already as far up as it will go that's out.
Have you tried dropping the lid so it slams fairly hard? My 52 always required a pretty sharp lick to close. Not too hard but very solid.

[tviner]

Trunk Latch

I have not examined it very carefully -- will do when I get her home. I did slam it accidentally and that got it but also created a need to have the locksmith come because it locked when that happen and it wouldn't unlock (something inside the lock was bent previously we think). So, I tend to agree with you that adjustment to bring the piece "up" higher would do the trick. Thanks for your response.

[RadioRoy]

What's the latest on this? Are you happily motoring around town, impressing everyone with your unique ride for the holiday?

[avantilover]

Word is that I need a new 6v generator. When they charge it up it starts w/o trouble. Brand new battery, so, something is draining it. The guy I bought it from had put in a new wiring harness (Whitney - sp?) and he put a separate switch in to activate the overdrive. That is the only thing I can think of here. So, I need a new generator and Studebaker International wants us to mail the one I have to them. Is that normal? I am thinking what I need is to just buy a NOS generator, take it to Midas, and get this show back on the road. Thoughts?

Next issue is the Hill Holder Assembly. Can't find one to buy. The guy here can get a kit and rebuild it or we can bypass it. Thoughts?

Roy -- Thanks again. You are full of information and I really appreciate your input. I now have the Shop Manual and Parts Catalog.

Picture is now my avatar and same is in my profile. Will try to add more this weekend.

Tom

Sometimes Studebaker International want your old parts to rebuild for later sale as they are often difficult to find. Nothing unusual/wrong with that, we'd all be lost with them they're a great vendor.

[dpson]

I have a NOS No-Rol (Hillholder) kit AC-2104 for a 1950 Champion. The No-Rol "valve" is the same as for 1951. According to the parts books the difference in the kits between 1950 and 1951 is in the levers, which you should already have. Drop me an email if interested: dpson1954@comcast.net.

[Roscomacaw]

If I might chime in here - we certainly understand your enchantment with this car. But while it IS just a car, and there ARE still folks that call themselves "mechanics", having to rely on places like Midas to keep it on the road is going to quickly prove to be a costly endeavor. What I'd do - were I you - is find whatever chapter of the Studebaker Drivers Club might cover your area and see if among them is someone with a technical bent that could act, at least, as an advisor.
While drum brakes are still in use on much more modern cars, I'd wager that these fellas at Midas have NEVER seen the sorta self-adjustment slugs that your '51 uses. And who and how was the generator deemed bad? A "rebuild" can cost as much as $200 these days. A fresh set of brushes can cost less than a buck. But you're at the mercy of the "experts" you're going to. I'm NOT insinuating that they are ill-intentioned or greedy - just that they may not have your best interests at heart. Be savvy, eh?

[candbstudebakers]

Tom welcome, one man you need to know living in Iowa is Alan Meeker, he lives in Marion Iowa, his number is 319-377-1069, call him and ask for help, other around you will also know Alan,...Bob

[tviner]

Roy:

She is still in the shop. Generator and distributor both rebuilt by a local guy that Midas found. In our 3d week of waiting for delivery of parts for Hillholder.

Roscomacaw: I agree with your concern. I am anxious about the money part of the Midas adventure but my local options wanted nothing to do with brake problems and my research on this site and talking to a few other folks made me believe I had to send it off. The tires have come off and gone back on. I forwarded the concern about self-adjusters and the like to Midas (which came to me front a SDC forum user above) and they said that they brought in someone who had worked on Studebakers before and he was aware. I have also annoyed the hell out of them I am afraid by calling at the end of each day to get a status report. Although I have not seen the finished product (or any estimate of cost) I think they have been great. I am told that the generator and distributor have gone back in and starting is no longer a problem. However, there is still something draining the battery. My hill holder is setup kind of strange with a seperate switch (in addition to the pull knob). Any ideas here?

DAN: If I don't have the parts by Wednesday for the Hill Holder I will call you. Thanks for putting that out there.

I will call Mr. Meeker this week. Great contact, thank you.

Thank you all for the messages. I can't tell you how much I appreciate the input. This process has been fun/scary/eyeopening and I look forward to more.

[RadioRoy]

The hill holder does not have a switch or a knob. Are you confusing the hill holder with the overdrive?

[tviner]

Yes, overdrive, my mistake.

[ddub]

I have never seen Iowa, my impression is it is pretty flat. Here in the Great Northwest a hill holder is a great option, lots of hills to hold. But if you won't be driving where hill starts are a challenge, just by-pass the hill holder. Millions of brand X drivers get by without one.

Do get ahold of local SDC floks. They know who to trust with your car.

[RadioRoy]

The overdrive is the most useful system on the car, one of the simpler ones, and for some strange reason the most universally misunderstood.

To use it, all you have to do is push in the handle and forget it. It works automatically without being conscious of it. It acts like 5th gear in a 5 speed transmission, and slows the engine down, giving better mileage and quieter engine running. The only time the handle needs to be pulled out is if you are going down a steep hill, or if the car is being pushed to start it.

When you get back on the road, do not attempt to go over about 45 with the handle out. Your car has a 4.56 rear axle ratio and the engine will scream at highway speed without using the overdrive.

Every time I see an overdrive equipped car with the handle pulled out, I wonder what the driver is thinking. Usually they do not understand what it is for, or are afraid of it for some reason (probably because they do not understand it). Just leave it pushed in and ignore it. It will shift at the correct times like it was designed to - it it is working properly of course.

[tviner]

My overdrive is connected to a switch that has to be turned on after knob is pushed in.

O/d vs no o/d is a huge diff I agree. I can go 75 with or 45 without.

Can someone tell me generally how bypassing the hillholder wd go? I want to get driving again and studebaker intl has been playing phone tag and asking my mechanic o call back later for 2 weeks.