I now have my 56 wagon back from the (paint)stripper and was wondering if anyone has tried any of the new types of heat and sound deadeners(sp) on the market to spray on the inside. Someone mentioned Lizard Skin and others. I want to drive this car daily and living in Houston some sort of heat/sound deflector type coating is almost a must. I am planning on putting the factory firewall heat shield back on. I am also open to suggestions on the bottom of the car. I hate to put that nasty old style undercoating on so I'm leaning toward a splatter paint with additional hardener for durability and the look would be nice. Look forward to your input. Safe Driving.
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A lot of Cobra builders are using everything from spray on to stick on heat and sound insulation. They have aluminum floor panels with headers very close. Just do a search, or ask, and you will get lots or real world advice.
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The industry standard for sound deadening material seems to be Dynamat, but it is expensive. Someone on this forum told me about an equivalent material available from McMaster Carr. When you get there, do a search for "damping sheets". Click the result link that says "Adhesive Backed damping sheet" and then scroll down that page to the third item. Order the one that is "polymeric mastic", which is asphalt-based, one big sheet (which you can cut into small strips, like 1 to 3 inch x 12 inches). Apply a strip to the center of each large panel, like you were deadening a snare drum head by placing your hand in the center. This way, you save money by not covering more area than necessary (I learned this from reading this page on the Quiet Ride Solutions website).
On top of that, you need a heat insulator. I ordered a roll of 3/8" thick stuff that consists of polyester fibers (NOT tiny air bubble pockets) that are sandwiched between aluminized layers (both sides). You could buy the pre-cut AcoustiShield version of this from Quiet Ride Solutions (but only if your car is a 53-64 coupe), but I paid less for the same kind of material somewhere else. One roll I got here had the aluminum sandwiching tiny air pockets (not good for under the weight of stepping on it but okay for the roof and sides) and the other had the aluminum sandwiching polyester fibers, good for under the carpet, as there are no air bubbles to break. That came from this seller on eBay: CowboyParts
I have not installed all of this yet, but now is the time to do it, after painting the interior, and while the seat, carpet and headliner are out.
[img=left]http://rocketdillo.com/studebaker/misc/images/Current_Avacar.gif[/img=left] - DilloCrafter
1955 1/2 Ton Pickup
The Red-Headed Amazon
Paul Simpson
"DilloCrafter"
1955 1/2 Ton Pickup
The Red-Headed Amazon
Deep in the heart of Texas
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If you have the underside really, really clean - what about a bedliner? seriously, that's what some of the Jeep and Scout guys are using. I agree that the stock style undercoating is evil. Alternately, you could use a paraffin-based undercoat like VW and other German manufacturers use. I don't exactly know where to get it, but if I were a betting man, I'd bet it's made by Wuerth.
For the inside, yup, Dynamat is the standard but there are knockoffs that work almost as well that cost a lot less. I think Ray F. had a source for something that he thought worked well.
nate
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55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
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55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
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I don't know about the spray on bedliner stuff. I think you'd need a chisel to get it off if you needed to. I'd suggest POR-15 and then a coating of your favorite color.
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Tom - Lakeland, FL
1964 Studebaker Daytona
Michigan Speed - www.michiganspeed.com
Club Hot Rod - www.clubhotrod.com
LS1 Tech - www.ls1tech.comTom - Bradenton, FL
1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD
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They must not have prepped before they applied the bedliner. You still need to prep and paint primer first. Sounds like another case of hiding rust with fresh undercoating-- aka cursed purple hawk.
53commander HDTP
53 Champion HDTP
61 Cursed Purple Hawk
64 Champ long bed V8
64 GT64 Champ long bed V8
55/53 Studebaker President S/R
53 Hudson Super Wasp Coupe
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Thanks for the input. My car is clean everywhere after the dipping process. All rust is gone along with some body panels(pieces) . I am going to look into the bed liner but I am a little shakey on the forever part. I will say that anyone that wants to see exactly what your car is made of should get it dipped. I believe the POR-15 is a primer( comes in colors) that I have used in the past that was outstanding for rust protection (probally my choice right now). As far as inside the peal an stick seems like a good choice. Thanks to everyone.
1956 Studebaker Pelham Wagon Houston, Texas
Remember, \"When all is said and done. More is always said then ever done.\"
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I had the bottom of my truck cab sprayed with linex. As long as it was clean they said it would work great. I also fiberglassed the floorboards and then I will put padding with carpet down. For the firewall I used special felt from McMaster Carr Supply. It was cheaper to buy the material and make it than to have it made.
Jake
-Home of John Studebaker-
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McMaster Carr is a great place to buy from. Almost always get it the next day.
53commander HDTP
53 Champion HDTP
61 Cursed Purple Hawk
64 Champ long bed V8
64 GT64 Champ long bed V8
55/53 Studebaker President S/R
53 Hudson Super Wasp Coupe
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No business account needed when I ordered the stuff a couple months ago.
[img=left]http://rocketdillo.com/studebaker/misc/images/Current_Avacar.gif[/img=left] - DilloCrafter
1955 1/2 Ton Pickup
The Red-Headed Amazon
Paul Simpson
"DilloCrafter"
1955 1/2 Ton Pickup
The Red-Headed Amazon
Deep in the heart of Texas
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No, you don't need a business account. I just have an open account with them and pay the bills as they come in.
53commander HDTP
53 Champion HDTP
61 Cursed Purple Hawk
64 Champ long bed V8
64 GT64 Champ long bed V8
55/53 Studebaker President S/R
53 Hudson Super Wasp Coupe
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What have I found underneath it all? Surface RUST!
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