My New '62

[DC1]

Thanks everyone!

And more input is certainly welcome.

Don

[JDP]

My deluxe seat cover set in vinyl is $450/$30 ups. This is the 63 style with vertical pleats, 62 would be horizontal.Includes rear arm rest, console and matching door panel vinyl. (uninstalled)
`

JDP/Maryland

[StudeRich]

Not a bad car at all! [^] It appears to be a pretty solid rust-free GT. The decklid damage is caused by a seized left hinge which is a bit hard to find new, but may be found in good used from SDC Members.

If those recliners on the front seats are not working in all seven positions, all of the gears and small parts are available at Studebaker Vendors.

When you replace that Battery if needed, be sure to get a Group 24, not what you have, it's a Group 24F (Ford) with the Positive Post forward when posts are on the Engine side. It should be NEGATIVE forward! [:0]
Then a much shorter Ground cable can be used.

StudeRich

[wcarroll@outrageous.net]

If you decide to strip that paint, you might want to consider Soda Blasting which allows you to leave all the glass and chrome on the car.

The process will remove the paint while leaving the factory filler/bondo intact.

Once the car has been blasted, you can specifiically address any problem areas.

Walnut shell blasting is another popular option if you're in CA.

I had a car completely dipped and it cost a fortune, and the heat from sandblasting can warp Studebaker sheetmetal.

Some outfits even offer mobile Soda Blasting.

Food for thought when you get to that crossroad

http://community.webshots.com/user/s2dbaker?vhost=community

[DC1]

quote:Originally posted by JDP

My deluxe seat cover set in vinyl is $450/$30 ups. This is the 63 style with vertical pleats, 62 would be horizontal.Includes rear arm rest, console and matching door panel vinyl. (uninstalled)
`

JDP/Maryland

Looks nice. Do you have a website so I can find you down the road a bit?

thanks

Don

[DC1]

quote:Originally posted by StudeRich

Not a bad car at all! [^] It appears to be a pretty solid rust-free GT. The decklid damage is caused by a seized left hinge which is a bit hard to find new, but may be found in good used from SDC Members.

If those recliners on the front seats are not working in all seven positions, all of the gears and small parts are available at Studebaker Vendors.

When you replace that Battery if needed, be sure to get a Group 24, not what you have, it's a Group 24F (Ford) with the Positive Post forward when posts are on the Engine side. It should be NEGATIVE forward! [:0]
Then a much shorter Ground cable can be used.

StudeRich

Yes, that is what happened with the rear deck lid . grrrrr.

I think the recliner mechanisms are fine. My kids probably laid them back. I do need to get the correct fabrics at some point.

Thanks for the battery advice!


Don

[DC1]

quote:Originally posted by wcarroll@outrageous.net

If you decide to strip that paint, you might want to consider Soda Blasting which allows you to leave all the glass and chrome on the car.

The process will remove the paint while leaving the factory filler/bondo intact.

Once the car has been blasted, you can specifiically address any problem areas.

Walnut shell blasting is another popular option if you're in CA.

I had a car completely dipped and it cost a fortune, and the heat from sandblasting can warp Studebaker sheetmetal.

Some outfits even offer mobile Soda Blasting.

Food for thought when you get to that crossroad

http://community.webshots.com/user/s2dbaker?vhost=community

Great idea, thanks.

Don

[BobPalma]

Lots of potential there, Don, as others have said. A good place to start and have a nice driver.

A couple observations:

1. It looks like a late 1962 (good) with a "full-flow" engine; the oil filter being down low on the right side of the engine, at the rear of the block, correct?

2. It has a universal engine oil dipstick with an adjustable stop. Good used Stude V-8 dipsticks are readily available, so you might want to get one and make sure the oil level is correct. Someone may have adjusted that stop incorrectly, and the engine is operating on too much or too little oil. Not good either way.

(To wit: A similar situation probably contributed to my Daytona sedan using more oil than it should. When I got it, it had a Chevrolet dipstick in it that looked like it belonged there...but when I substituted a correct Studebaker V-8 dipstick, I discovered "full" on the Chevy stick, when inserted in the Studebaker V-8 tube, resulted in the engine having just barely 4 quarts of oil in it when on FULL; not good. So the engine had been running at least a full quart low for who knows how long, likely contributing to a higher incidence of wear.)

3. As others have said, that left deck lid hinge is seized, so the right probably isn't far behind. Get them off right away and have them rebuilt. I think Phil Harris at Fairborn Studebaker is doing them, or someone else. Perhaps another forum member will post if it isn't Phil that's doing them.

4. It will be a challenge to repair that deck lid, but it can be done if you can't find good used. Just be sure the hinges are operating freely and in propoer alignment before you put it back together.

5. Be careful fooling with the seat reclining mechanisms. They are notoriously weak. If they actually do work, treat them with care.

Overall, a neat car! Arguably the most desirable of 1962 Hawks: Late production (full-flow engine), 4-speed, Twin Traction, full dash, and no (thank goodness) troublesome Hydrovac power brakes or leaky power steering.

Good score. Congrats. BP

[DC1]

quote:Originally posted by BobPalma

Lots of potential there, Don, as others have said. A good place to start and have a nice driver.

A couple observations:

1. It looks like a late 1962 (good) with a "full-flow" engine; the oil filter being down low on the right side of the engine, at the rear of the block, correct?

2. It has a universal engine oil dipstick with an adjustable stop. Good used Stude V-8 dipsticks are readily available, so you might want to get one and make sure the oil level is correct. Someone may have adjusted that stop incorrectly, and the engine is operating on too much or too little oil. Not good either way.

(To wit: A similar situation probably contributed to my Daytona sedan using more oil than it should. When I got it, it had a Chevrolet dipstick in it that looked like it belonged there...but when I substituted a correct Studebaker V-8 dipstick, I discovered "full" on the Chevy stick, when inserted in the Studebaker V-8 tube, resulted in the engine having just barely 4 quarts of oil in it when on FULL; not good. So the engine had been running at least a full quart low for who knows how long, likely contributing to a higher incidence of wear.)

3. As others have said, that left deck lid hinge is seized, so the right probably isn't far behind. Get them off right away and have them rebuilt. I think Phil Harris at Fairborn Studebaker is doing them, or someone else. Perhaps another forum member will post if it isn't Phil that's doing them.

4. It will be a challenge to repair that deck lid, but it can be done if you can't find good used. Just be sure the hinges are operating freely and in propoer alignment before you put it back together.

5. Be careful fooling with the seat reclining mechanisms. They are notoriously weak. If they actually do work, treat them with care.

Overall, a neat car! Arguably the most desirable of 1962 Hawks: Late production (full-flow engine), 4-speed, Twin Traction, full dash, and no (thank goodness) troublesome Hydrovac power brakes or leaky power steering.

Good score. Congrats. BP

1. Lemme go look. thanks

2. yikes... thank you, I would not have known this! I will source a correct one.

3. will do


I am very happy there is no air, PS, or AT although the brakes give me a bit of the heebie-jeebies... Drums! Single master cyl!

thanks for all the help!


Don

[BobPalma]

quote:Originally posted by DC1

I am very happy there is no air, PS, or AT although the brakes give me a bit of the heebie-jeebies... Drums! Single master cyl!

thanks for all the help!


Don

"No problem" on those brakes, Don. Just fit a Turner Brakes dual-piston master cylinder setup under the floor and rebuild the balance of the system stock (finned drums) and you'll be good to go.

If you want to spend more money and have contemporary disc brakes up front, the Turner Brakes retrofit front disc setup is ideal. But IMHO (and Jim Turner and I were good friends 'last I knew), the disc setup isn't all that necessary if you have the stock, Studebaker finned-drum arrangement in good shape. BP

[BobGlasscock]

About the deck lid and hinges. Get the lid straightened out first and see if the hinges are operating smoothly before re-installing the lid. If the hinges are smooth, they may not be bad. The lid was the whole problem with mine and when it was straightened out, the second pair of hinges worked fine.

'50 Champion, 1 family owner

[DC1]

Thanks guys!