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  • FRONT END REBUILD

    What would I expect to pay (labor only) for a complete front suspension and steering (manual) rebuild? 60 Lark V8.

  • #2
    The first problem is to find a shop competent to do this. You really need someone who has done Stude front ends before. Some may say they can, but probably have never even seen one let alone have the proper specialized tools to do one.

    Second is to define "complete front suspension and steering rebuild". If you REALLY mean complete, this would include the steering box, reach rod, tie rods, bell crank, king pins, inner and outer lower and upper bushings, stabilizer bar bushings, inner and outer wheel bearings and races, alignment, shocks, and maybe springs.

    A competent mechanic doing all of that would probably take 10-20 hours depending upon how many rusted/frozen parts he encounters. That's a competent mechanic well versed in Studes and WITH the specialized tools needed. At $50-100/hour, that would be $500-$2000 in labor and probably another grand plus in parts.

    If you locate a competent mechanic, the best bet would be to evaluate what needs to be done. No sense rebuilding the steering box, for example, if it is in excellent shape and can be adjusted to spec. Same with all other suspension parts.



    Dick Steinkamp
    Bellingham, WA

    Dick Steinkamp
    Bellingham, WA

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    • #3
      Keith,
      Welcome to the Forum.
      I like your screen name![8D]
      Tell us more.
      The most recent Rockne roster lists only one Rockne in Kentucky; any chance you may be #2?

      An old-school alignment shop should be able to diagnose issues in your front suspension and rebuild only those items needing attention. What issues are you experiencing?

      Brad Johnson
      Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
      '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight
      Brad Johnson,
      SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
      Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
      '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
      '56 Sky Hawk in process

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      • #4
        For me, It's about 10-hours @ $67.50/hr + parts

        This includes:
        Kingpin rebuild (add $75 for kits)
        Inner/outer control-arm bushings (add $70 parts)
        Center pin rebuild ($70 parts)
        Springs ($150+ now... haven't ordered in a while)
        Tie-Rods... Haven't had to buy any recently.. most are usually OK.
        Steering box (extra if poor- could be up to $200 if removal is required while front suspension is redone... more if stand-alone)

        This is the time to do brakes: $150-$500 depending on wheel cylinders/disk/calipers/bearings/seals/hoses etc...

        Control arms and all pieces sandblasted, or cleaned, POR-15 + topcoat.

        I would say (MY) average "total rebuild" is in the $1500 range.


        Ray


        Specializing in Studebaker Restoration
        Ray

        www.raylinrestoration.com
        Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

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        • #5
          I'm just finishing up doing my 64 Daytona and its a big job ( good thing I don't charge by the hour )

          [IMG]Home of the Fried Green Tomato
          "IF YOU WANT THE SMILES YOU NEED TO DO THE MILES "

          1960 Champ
          1964 Daytona HT
          sigpic

          Home of the Fried Green Tomato

          "IF YOU WANT THE SMILES YOU NEED TO DO THE MILES "

          1960 Champ , 1966 Daytona , 1965 Daytona Wagonaire

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          • #6
            I just finished up the "whole enchilada" on a 79 Avanti. It needed just about everything. Don't forget that there will also be more for any power steering items; this one needed all the hoses and reseal of the ram and valve. Also get new grade 8 nuts and bolts for the A arm shafts and anything else that looks crummy. I routinely cut off the old to safe time dealing with rust and just replace them. Add over a hundred for alignment (that's right, this is 2009 and any COMPETENT alignmemt shop will charge that or more) Front end jobs can eat up more than a couple thou easily. This car needed the calipers re shimmed, wheel bearings and seals, etc..etc... After all that, I went to the rear and replaced bearings, seals, shoes, wheel cylinders, etc. Remember.."this is not a cheap hobby but it is cheaper than therapy". BTW, there are some bad quality A arm bushigs floating around out there; beware of the ones without the "silentbloc" name on them as they crush easily on installation and then are too loose in the control arms.

            StudebakerGeorge

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            • #7
              I had one done last year by a competent, Studebaker knowledgeable, mechanic. I supplied the parts and the bill was $1600. By the way it was worth it. I have done them myself and its a difficult task.

              Mike

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              • #8
                Seems to be lots of opinions on the toughness of this particular job, but my personal opinion is that it's no harder than any other rebuild task. If I can do it, anyone can! [8D]


                [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

                Clark in San Diego
                '63 F2/Lark Standard

                The Official Website of the San Diego Chapter of the Studebaker Drivers Club. Serving San Diego County

                Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

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