1949 2R10-22 Pickup restoration

[MikeG]

I just acquired this 1949 2R10-22. It is a frame off restoration 95% done, but restorer passed. Its been sitting for 10 years. Rebuilt engine, transmission, rear. I'm new with Studebaker, and so I've got a ton of questions. But also looking for inspiration. Any suggestions appreciated.

I am thinking that this restoration is accurate and i should do my best to keep it original. I don't want to commit blasphemy, but how far does that go...do I look for original battery cables or is that getting nuts?

The engine was rebuilt. (.020 over but I don't know if hardened valve seats are even a thing on this. I was test run after rebuild and then just sat for 10 years. I'm going to use a fogging oil, let it sit then hand crank for awhile just to be safe. Cylinders should have no carbon buildup. Fresh rebuild...Should I use synthetic or high zinc oil to run? 10-40 ? Should I add a little brake fluid or some additive to soften seals that have been sitting f 10 yrs or is that overthinking?

I'll call Parks Pipes for exhaust. Should I be looking for a muffler to give me more of a 'rumble'?

I've got an upholstery guy. Any ideas for material other than brown leather (which I'm assuming is original) Or should I be doing brown leather to keep it original? Or the other extreme to put in buckets?

Wheels.....I understand these are split ring. I saw pics of some trucks that had wheels weren't as bulky as the Budds (I think they're fugly) with baby moon hubcaps that I thought looked classy. I have been googling for many hours and can't find anything at any supplier. Again and like everything else, should i stick with split ring for originality, or pursue other options. If I stick with split ring, is it ok to put on radials (with a tube and what size?).

There is no wiring. I'll assume there is a fusebox (truck is in transit...won't have it f a week). I'll assume a horn headlight and taillight, dashlights' maybe someday signals and fogs, oil temp and gas gauges maybe a dome light. I don't think I'll need to buy a harness, but 12 ga or 14 ga, ? What is the concensus on switching to 12 volt? I was thinking to keep it 6 and use led bulbs, or maybe a converter to 12v just for bulbs and a radio

I know I'll need taillights, prob front marker lights, Lic plate bracket, air cleaner just to start. It seems the original taillights are about 3" round that protrude out from the bed, but I also saw some that went into cavity of back of pickup bed that I thought looked nice. Could have been a later model.. I see the wiper vacuum pump is installed (hoping it works) but I'll need to source wiper arms and what i'll guess is a chrome blade. I have a vintage tbird, and there a half dozen solid well stocked suppliers. I'm surprised that I'm having trouble finding suppliers f Studebaker parts. So, please, any recommendations for sourcing these and other parts without going to Hershey lol (fyi I'm in So Florida).

Any feedback as to what I'm thinking, any trick setups would be appreciated

[MikeG]

Better pix

[M-Webb]

Very cool, nice truck. I think you are mostly on the right track. Except 1 critical thing - I would highly encourage you to keep those Budd wheels. Me and a lot of other Stude truck guys will tell you they are one of the unique things that make those 3/4 ton trucks really cool and give them their unique honest work truck character. Those are very cool old wheels. And if they are in good solid shape, ie not rusted up, they can be serviced and are safe to use. I use to have a '53 2R11 and those wheels are really makes those trucks. Just my opinion of course. It's your truck and you should do as you like best. But if you do take those wheels off and don't ever want to reuse them or keep them around for the next owner maybe. Maybe sure to try to get them to somebody else who can use and will want to use them. They are getting pretty hard to find in good shape.

Otherwise, those trucks are super simple to work on and you should be able to get pretty much any and every part you need for it fairly easily. There are many Studebaker venders that can help you. Stephen Allens Studebaker Parts for one is right there in Florida. Call them and they can help you with most if not all of it, or refer you to others who can if they can't. Might be a good idea to start with a shop manual and parts book.

Here is a list of most all Studebaker venders:

https://www.studebakervendors.com/

Being here is already a good start, but also join up with the Studebaker Drivers Club, the national Studebaker club, as well as your local FL chapter if you haven't already.

And here is a Studebaker site dedicated to just the trucks. A lot of good guys and specific help on there.

https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/studebakertrucktalk/studebaker-truck-talk-f23885/

Congrats and good luck with it! Enjoy!!

[MikeG]

Thx. I found Truck Talk...also Stephen Allens Studebaker. The pages I looked at were just lists and to me were jibberish, but I'll call tomorrow. The wheels are growing on me partly from your perspective and partly because there are not really practical options. It'll be easier and cheaper to sandblast /powdercoat anyway. I joined SDC but havent found the FL chapter yet....I will. Still figuring how to navigate Thx again

[BRUCESTUDE]

Definitely buy a parts book and shop manual, between the two you can see what goes where, and what you may need! If you build your own wiring harness (wiring diagram in the shop manual) I recommend buying a simple fuse panel from Summit Racing; while not original, it can be handy to use modern type fuses for all your lights and accessories.

[M-Webb]

Stephen Allen I think now is selling new wiring harnesses. But I don't know if for the 2R10 trucks yet or not. I would highly recommend getting one of them if so though if are, will same a lot of time and headache figuring things out, especially if this is your first go around. Matt on here may chime in if he sees this. But just call them, they will be more than glad to help.

[gsx_martin]

Congratulations for buying this truck from bring-a-trailer.
The most expensive work has been done.
Now the goal is to find all the missing parts, which was the reason that I do not bid higher. It will take me too much time and is too expensive to collect all the missing parts and ship them to Germany.

[MikeG]

Are you the guy that bid me up another 2k?. The seller appreciates you very much lol

[mbstude]

Congrats on the acquisition. I followed the BaT auction, I'm glad the truck was purchased by someone that plans on finishing it. As Mike mentioned, we have a Studebaker parts store just outside of Gainesville. www.mystudebaker.com Give me a call or send an email and let me know how I can help.

As far as "original vs modified", it's all in what you want. In stock form, a 2R10 3/4 ton with the 85 HP Champion Six is a 45-50 MPH vehicle. Only you can decide if you want to enjoy the truck as it was built, or turn it into something with different driving characteristics.

The wheels - There is no other wheel that will bolt on and fit. If you want to ditch the Budd wheels with the lock ring, your only option is to have wheels custom made. If you go that route, there are plenty of guys out there that will buy your original wheels.

Mike, thanks for the plug. The website hasn't been updated with all of our new harnesses yet but we do have factory-correct 2R truck wiring in stock right now.

These trucks didn't have a fuse box. You'll find a circuit breaker in a few places but that's about it.

BTW, I can also pass along contact information for the SDC Chapter in that part of the state. A gentleman named Rick has been working hard to revive that chapter and he seems to be having some success with it. He also has a 2R10 truck and I'm sure he would be more than happy to talk with you.

[MikeG]

Thx. I'm gonna keep it pretty much stock. I'm 73, and want to finish it b4 I just need diapers and a straw. It should be delivered some time next week and I'm lining things up so Ill hit the ground running.. Im aware I'm on Studebaker time.....what I think will take weeks wil prob take months

I'm accepting the wheels. Will sandblast /powder coat. Wonderinfg about tire type and size. Should I go w bias ply (i didn't even think they were still avail.....what size is 7.00 ft and 7.50 rear too much or not enough. or should I go w radials?

I was casually looking at Champs as a knockaround truck when I fell into this and just couldnt pass. I'll be in touch for sure THX

[Skip Lackie]

Recommend you join the Stude Drivers Club, as it has many resources that would be useful to you. In particular, an annual listing of parts vendors sorted by area of expertise. Here's a shorter list: https://www.studebakervendors.com/

The 2R trucks were in production for 5.5 years, and there were many running changes. These were documented in series of articles by Fred Fox in the SDC's magazine. Interior colors were one of those changes. I can probably provide you with the dates of those magazines later this week. There was no fuse block on 2R trucks. Each circuit got its own fuse.

[MikeG]

I'd appreciate that. Right now I'm all over the place. I looked at some back issues

[Skip Lackie]

The 2R truck articles were in Apr, Jun, Sep, and Nov 2022 and Jan 2023. The color charts were in the Jan 2023 issue. Interior colors: Cuban tan, Apr 1948 to early1950. Tuscan Tan early 1950 to Jan 1952, and Pilot Gray from Jan 1952 to the end. Seat upholstery: brown until Jan 1952. Maroon from Jan 1952 to the end.

[MikeG]

Much appreciated. I looked at all the online issues but i think it only goes back to 2024. I'll get to it. I'm going to do my best to keep it original, so brown it is

[Studebaker Wheel]

Double page comprehensive data sheet issued by Studebaker for the 2R10. $12 if interested.

[gsx_martin]

Are you the guy that bid me up another 2k?. The seller appreciates you very much lol

No, I stopped bidding at $3333