I am now proud owner of an 1963 Lark six cylinder the sheet metal, under the hood and trunk are in good shape the floor, body supports and pillars are a different story. I was wondering if anyone knows of manufactures or distributors in eastern Canada that makes any of these parts i will also need a set of a arm bushings if i can get these parts that will be a good start. Also what would be the best choice of an automatic trans 200-4R or 700-R4 , which one will fit better. Any help appreciated.
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What sounds like it would not be a good candidate for a major Repair or Restoration is the Pillars, that will escalate into the Cowl and sounds like it needs another Body, and the Frame can't be far behind, so you have a Power Train, and no worthy Frame or Body.
If the engine actually runs and quite well, a transplant in a better car would be a good option.
There are adapters available for GM 700-R4 and 200-4R and all THM's to V8 Studebaker Engines, but I know of none for a Six.
Most everything will be found easier in the US.
The Frame outriggers (Body Supports) may need to come from a donor Frame.
Studes. equipped like this, and in that condition usually only get fixed at a high cost, because of it being a Family Heirloom or long owned keeper type.
I really do not like having to sound so negative, but when you realize just how many much better Studes. are out there EVERYWHERE Now here, and even a few in Canada, it is hard to understand dumping 5 to 10K or more in a 1K-2K Car.
Any 1951 to 1966 V8 Model would be a much better candidate to have fun with and enjoy fixing up, driving, and will still have a bit of value and desirability left when done.
Is this at least the more desirable 2 Door Sedan, Wagonaire, 2 Door Hardtop, or Convertible ?
This little beauty came from the Factory with a Avanti Paxton Supercharged Studebaker 289 V8 with 290 H.P. and Manual 4 Speed Trans.
And this '63 Lark Regal 2 Door, is a basically stock Canadian Built OHV 170 c.i.d. 6 Cyl. with Manual 3 speed Overdrive with 6 gear Ratios.
It has a modified splitter Dual Exhaust System.
New reproduction, NOS Mechanical and many Body Parts are no problem to find in the US at:
Last edited by StudeRich; 10-23-2025, 05:42 PM.StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967 -
Alot of parts like that need to be make while doing the work. Do you have the ability to cut, weld and fabricate?Originally posted by Lark 1963 View PostComment
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Classic Enterprises has some pieces of reproduction sheet metal for a Lark. My experience with their stuff is that it takes quite a bit of modification to make it fit but it is still easier to use their stuff than starting from a piece of flat sheet metal and making your own pieces. If the pillars of your car (the posts the doors mount to and shut against) are rusted out you will have to fabricate that yourself of find a donor car.
For a Lark in the shape you are describing, it really comes down to whether or not there is sentimental attachment to the car. It is going to be a lot of work to fix and it won't be worth a lot when you are done. On the other hand if this is meant to be a family project where y'all spend time together and the more work the more time spent together, then by all means go for it. My Dad and I restored my 61 Hawk and got most of the work done on his 50 Champion before he passed away. We did my Hawk first and it certainly was not worth fixing. But it gave us something to do together for about 6 years. Wouldn't trade those memories for anything. I didn't have all the skills or tools I needed when we started but my Dad and I were both fair mechanics and pretty good at figuring stuff out. I learned the new skills needed and bought a lot of specialty tools as we went along.
The main thing is to go into this thing with open eyes and be honest with yourself about what your capabilities are before you tackle a car that needs as much work as you describe.
Good luck with your project.Wayne
"Trying to shed my CASO ways"
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20 years ago I started into a rusty 60 Lark convertible thinking it would take a year or 2 and it was more like 4 when I finished. I am just a hobbyist that took a high school general interest welding course and bought a CTC mig welder. By the time I had finished I had used 15lbs of wire and a 4 x8 sheet of body metal and if I sold the car I calculate that I would be paid about $.10 an hour for my time. Didn't do it for the potential profit. I now have a driver that is the way I wanted it and the satisfaction of having done it all myself. If this is what is motivating you- go for it! Studebakers are somewhat unique and there are many helping hands in this club glad to provide advice and parts along the way.
Bob
iBob
Welland Ontario
60 Lark Convertible
64 Daytona
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"They were meant to be driven ... so keep on cruizin"Comment
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My suggestion would be: assess what you already have, and what it will cost in terms of both time and money, to make it into what you want to have. If the pillars are shot, you are looking at a lot of work. If Ontario requires that you get an out-of-province inspection, the repair work will have to be done to to a pretty high standard to pass it. If the car is a family heirloom, you might be in "cost is no object" territory. If you just bought it on a whim, because the price was right, it might make more sense to find a "rust-free" Southwestern car of a similar type, and use this car as a parts donor to make it good. There are people right here on this Forum who could sell you one, or find you one. I'd suggest, as a starting point, that you take some pics of your car and post them here. Is the car six cylinder, or V8, manual transmission, or automatic? Does it have disc brakes, which became available in 1963? A '63 Daytona with V8 and 4 speed and disc brakes, is worth a lot more than a '63 Lark Custom 2 door sedan with six cylinder and straight 3-speed.Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta BadlandsComment
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I am in Ontario, and probably everything you need is here in Ontario through me or through other Ontario or Hamilton Chapter SDC members.
I would start with a mechanic who will advise if the frame and bones are good enough. I understand the new Safety Certificate is tough to get. Consider another car or donor.
Talk to any club member to decide if this is a project that you can handle. If you haven't done already, join SDC because the parts savings will far outweigh the costs of finding stuff outside the club.
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Thanks for the input everyone, this was not the best purchase i could of made but to late. I had a good look at it this morning and i still think the frame is good, there a bit of rust right at the back on the trunk floor, the doors work well so i don't think it is sagging so if i can find the parts i will give it the old college try. All i want out of this is a decent driver not a show car. If anyone has a floor or rocker panels for it and wants to part with it i would be interested i can get body supports for Classic industries. I am located in south western Ont on the shores of lake huron. The long term goal would be to switch to an eight cylinder drive train.
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The son of the last Studebaker dealer in Hanover used to live - or still does live - in the Marimichi area between Port Elgin and Southampton. Last name was Maurer - can't remember his first name. He has guy-car skills, had cars of his own, and would be of help to you if he's still around. Last contact with me was a couple of decades ago - so good luck!Roger Hill
60 Lark Vlll, hardtop, black/red, Power Kit, 3 spd. - "Juliette"
61 Champ Deluxe, 6, black/red, o/d, long box. - "Jeri"
Junior Wagon - "Junior"
"In the end, dear undertaker,
Ride me in a Studebaker"Comment
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