Anybody have one that is in pretty good shape they are willing to sell and ship? Trying to get a motor redone asap so I can drive to the international meet coming up. I have one, but it is pretty rough, looking for a better one for my truck, which is restored to a fairly high level. So hesitant to put this beat up and weld repaired one on it at this point. It's an R2 motor, but not going to be raced, so and late V8 motor pan is OK, I can covert it to R2 if needed, maybe add a PCV port on it if others think is really needed.
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Need a good later V8 oil pan
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Need a good later V8 oil pan
Anybody have one that is in pretty good shape they are willing to sell and ship? Trying to get a motor redone asap so I can drive to the international meet coming up. I have one, but it is pretty rough, looking for a better one for my truck, which is restored to a fairly high level. So hesitant to put this beat up and weld repaired one on it at this point. It's an R2 motor, but not going to be raced, so and late V8 motor pan is OK, I can covert it to R2 if needed, maybe add a PCV port on it if others think is really needed.
Last edited by M-Webb; 08-01-2025, 12:00 PM.Tags: None
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Yes Michael, you are going to need a good Oil Pan alright.
I suggest you check your Rod Bolts and especially those extra deep Rod Nuts for correct, as it is possible with the Pal Nuts installed to still have a scraping on the Pan issue on a 289.
StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967
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Thanks. It is hard to tell, but the pan off the 259 seems to clear the rod bolt/nuts adequately, not by much, but as much as suppose to I guess. I had an earlier 6-quart pan on it, but then I noticed something ticking the pan as I test rotated the crank around and saw a mark on the inside of the front of the pan at the #1 piston. The point of the lock nut on the rod cap bolts was just hitting the pan barely, just there at the 1 piston. Matt Burnett @ SA pointed out to me that I need to use a later V8 pan instead for that very reason. And luckily I have one, but when I went to pull it off my old 259, I realized how beat up it was.
So hoping to find a better one. Will just go with the one I have if can't source and get one pretty soon. I could pound a clearance dent in the bottom of the 6-quart pan and live with that maybe, but I think just going with the 259 pan is the better/smarter option, even it isn't the best looking. It is kind of ugly, but at least it works and is the more proper type pan for a full flow motor and later oil pump w/ a fixed pickup. With the earlier 6-quart pan, the fixed pickup does not go down to the bottom of the pan like would be best. I do have an earlier oil pump and pickup for it though too if needed as far as that goes. But think the 259 pan is still the better option overall.
V8 pans seem to be surprisingly very hard to come by. Calling around various sources, coming up empty so far. Seems like a good opportunity for a repro. Is anybody making any custom ones out of alum. or anything like that?Last edited by M-Webb; 08-01-2025, 03:26 PM.
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It is only fairly recently that Pans with caved bottoms onto the Oil Pickup started showing up on "Resurrected" poorly maintained Studes. and of course the larger supply of NOS has pretty much been gone for awhile it didn't take long to use them up.
And no one I know has even thought about that expensive, thankless project.
StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967
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If finding an original R1-R2 oil pan doesn't "pan" out you might try Phil Harris of Fairborn Studebaker (Fairborn, OH, near Dayton). At one time someone was converting regular oil pans to R1-R2 spec. If it wasn't him he might at least be able to put you on the right track.
--Dwight
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I already have a message into Phil from Thurs. night and yesterday, have not heard back yet. Kevin Orloff at Studebaker Acres in WI is the one who has converted the stand pans to R pans, and who also acquired some of Phil's standard parts business I believe. I spoke to him for a bit yesterday. Great guy, really nice to chat with. But he is also out of good pans himself apparently and now only does it as a service on pans people send him. So you need to have a good core pan to start with for it. Someone with good metal skills could certainly redo the repair on my pan and get it looking pretty nice. But I'm trying to avoid that and don't really have time now to get into all that if I'm ever going to get this motor done soon.
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all R1/R2/R3 and JT/JTS have windage tray.78 Avanti RQB 2792
64 Avanti R1 R5408
63 Avanti R1 R4551
63 Avanti R1 R2281
62 GT Hawk V15949
56 GH 6032504
56 GH 6032588
55 Speedster 7160047
55 Speedster 7165279
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Yes, learned that from Kevin. He told me besides the PCV tube, they have windage trays in them and that is a bigger part of the conversion process. And besides putting in the full windage trays, you also need 2 double-stud bolts on the rear main cap to hold the rear part of the windage tray in. I am just putting this in a Champ and don't necessarily need all of that. A good standard later V8 pan is all I'm really looking for. But an R pan would be even better and certainly welcome if can get one of those.Last edited by M-Webb; 08-02-2025, 04:57 PM.
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