How would you tackle a firewall that looks like swiss cheese?

[Charlie D]

The previous owner had started a restomod project before his passing and the '55 Coupe was given to me. The accelerator pedal was hung from the firewall as well as the power brake pedal. The wiring was run through the firewall. These holes when added to the original holes make my firewall look like Swiss cheese. I am thinking about securing two large pieces of sheet metal over both sides of the firewall and cutting the holes as needed as the components that are hooked to or pass through the firewall are installed.
Charlie D.

[Mike Van Veghten]

Exactly the same way that I did to my Conestoga...

A mig welder and a lot of time !

Mike

[swvalcon]

Build a new fire wall tin just the size of the old wall from the top as it meets the top, the sides between the inner fender mounts and the tunnel. Then cut the old one out leaving 1/4 to 1/2 " of the panel at the edges. Once you like the way your new panel fits and looks drill hole the same distance in on the edges of the new panel so it can be plug welded. The use 3-m 00815 panel adhesive all the way around the that edge and use screws to hold it fast until cured. Plug weld while still glue is still wet.

[mbstude]

If you’re doing a stock restoration, I’d replace the firewall with one from a donor car. I’ve got a ‘61 Hawk body shell here I could cut the firewall out of, but I’m sure you can find something closer.

If it’s a hot rod and things like the defroster and steering box are going to be relocated, then weld in a fresh piece of sheetmetal and cut holes where you need ‘em.

[PackardV8]

All Studebaker firewalls look like Swiss cheese. Your's is only slightly worse than new. It can be patched much easier than fabricating a new one.

jack vines

[nels]

I totally agree.

[Mike Van Veghten]

Yep...what Jack said.
They had MANY...holes in them from the factory. Looks like they punched the firewalls for ALL car markets that the car may end up being (models) and countries that they may go to.

Please...DON'T...add a giant patch panel over the whole firewall. That's just a cheap, obviously simply done, because the builder was too cheap do "properly" repair the existing panel.

Just weld the holes, grind smooth, and...paint.
Hell, if I can do it...yeah, you know the rest !!!

Mike

[gordr]

Well, people are unlikely to see the passenger compartment side of the firewall. So you really don't to make it real nice there. For the big holes, cut patch panels a tiny bit smaller than the holes, line them up with butt-welding clamps, and butt-weld with the MIG (or TIG, if you have it). Much less grinding/filler needed than with a lap weld. A panel flanger would be another option. For unwanted bolt and screw holes, just hold a little piece of metal up to the back side, and weld from the engine room side. Grind smooth; there will be a divot in the middle, fill with kitty hair filler, grind smooth. When paint time comes, spray the firewall with gravel guard or truck bed liner. It will look like it was factory-done for sound deadening reasons, and will hide countless small flaws in the panel finish. 2R trucks had a heavy asphaltic undercoat on their firewalls. And it will help insulate and quieten the car.

[Charlie D]

Guys,
I really appreciate the ideas. Ernie Loga sent me a firewall liner with no holes or notches. The ones I need can be added to it. I have a gas mig welder and have gotten fairly good with it after welding in several patch panels in the floor and trunk as well as the rockers. Using a small piece of metal on the interior behind the smaller holes is a good idea since no one will see the interior side after the firewall liner is installed. I used a penny clamped behind trim holes in the body panels to weld those holes shut. Ernie was also kind enough to have a yard of the same navy blue carpet material drop-shipped to me to use on the firewall liner. Jute carpet padding will be used in between to help insulate the interior from the engine compartment.
Thank you,
Charlie D.

[jpepper]

The previous owner had started a restomod project before his passing and the '55 Coupe was given to me. The accelerator pedal was hung from the firewall as well as the power brake pedal. The wiring was run through the firewall. These holes when added to the original holes make my firewall look like Swiss cheese. I am thinking about securing two large pieces of sheet metal over both sides of the firewall and cutting the holes as needed as the components that are hooked to or pass through the firewall are installed.
Charlie D.

Most of those holes are small. Eastwood makes a tool with a magnet and a copper pad. You cover the hole with the copper and mig weld the hole shut. https://www.eastwood.com/magnetic-ho...gas-welde.html
I have one and use it all the time. Anything larger than about 3/8" probably should have a slug made. Don't get it too hot.

[Charlie D]

Thank you guys for your suggestions. I used the copper backing for the smaller holes. For the larger ones I sent off for an assortment of metal hole plugs. Using a step drill the holes were drilled out until the plugs would fit and then stitch welded the plugs in.
Charlie D.

[bensherb]

What is the big square hole up by the cowl for Charlie?

[Charlie D]

A bulkhead connector running the wires from the fuse box in the interior to the engine bay. The prior owner had it glued in. I am going to try to pretty it up and possibly use fiberglass to hold it in place. My eyes glazed over when I looked at the wiring. I traced almost every one of them with the use of a Oldsmobile electrical manual about 3 inches thick.

[bensherb]

WOW, looks like a nightmare and the hard way around a simple thing.

My throttle cable come through the firewall about where your wires do.

When I got my car almost every wire under the dash was red. With all the things I've changed I've replaced all those red wires. Along the way I did something similar but used three $5 generic four fuse blocks from "Auto Zone" that snap to one another. EVERY circuit now has its own fuse and it's mounted under the dash, on an aluminum tab, next to the steering column where you can easily get to it.

I also now have several circuits the car did not come with; AC, electric hood lift, Fog lights, electric fans, electric fuel pump...etc, etc. Everything in the engine compartment still looks stock. You can see I have various values of fuses in place , but since I changed every light in the car to LEDs and the gauges to digital, most could now be changed for 2 amp fuses, I just never got any.
( the silver breaker is for AC, and the orange cube is an adjustable rate solid state turn and hazard light flasher unit for LEDs, it handles both systems)

[Charlie D]

Looks very clean and sanitary!