Are the 1953 brakes really that bad?

[Matt129]

Hello everyone. According to my research my 1953 Studebaker Champion should have Wagner Lockhead drum brakes. From the page I was looking at they made it sound like that were a nightmare to work on, and were almost dangerous to drive with brand new. Are they really that bad? I would like to maintenance and partially rebuild the current brakes on this car at least to start with, not replace literally everything 😅. Are those Wagner Lockhead brakes serviceable? Are they really nightmares to work with? What I’m really asking is, with repairs and maintenance, would I be able to just keep them?

[StudeRich]

It is the Automatic Adjusting feature with the "plug" in the Lining that is just Weird, and difficult to service. People used to buy a Eccentric to put over the adjusting Stud to remove the handful of "Automatic Adjusting" Parts.

They are really Not terrible brakes when working properly, maybe it is just that the "Self Energizing" Wagner 1954/'55 Brakes are just SO much better, especially the 1956-1966 289/283 V8 Car Finned 11 inch and 10 Inch Rear system.

[Matt129]

It is the Automatic Adjusting feature with the "plug" in the Lining that is just Weird, and difficult to service. People used to buy a Eccentric to put over the adjusting Stud to remove the handful of "Automatic Adjusting" Parts.

They are really Not terrible brakes when working properly, maybe it is just that the "Self Energizing" Wagner 1954/'55 Brakes are just SO much better, especially the 1956-1966 289/283 V8 Car Finned 11 inch and 10 Inch Rear system.

What is an Eccentric? I’ve never heard of that before. Is it like an auto to manual converter part?

[StudeRich]

An "out of round" Aftermarket Ring, that is No longer available.

[Al from Eatonville]

As a starting point, keep in mind that your car is 70 years old with 70 year old technology. Fully reconditioned, the brakes are adequate provided you drive accordingly. You can't drive your 53 Studebaker the way you would drive a brand new car. You need to drive a bit slower, you need to drive defensively, and you need good tires. A great many accidents involving vintage cars are caused by careless people assuming our Studebakers can stop on a dime. Doing a full rebuild is very definitely not a nightmare, and is in fact not that hard and the effort is quite rewarding. Get out your shop manual and go slow. Take lots of pictures. Do only one side at a time. It gives you an opportunity to learn more about your car and the satisfaction of knowing you have good brakes. And don't be reluctant asking fellow Chapter members for help. Their collective knowledge and experience is invaluable. Good luck!

[rockne10]

Other than pulling the rear hub for service, they are pretty easy to work on. As Al said, do one side at a time and use the other to represent the template for assembly.
They were adequate in their day for a normal driver; I've even locked mine up in a panic stop, something modern ABS systems are designed to prevent.
That said, all brakes suffer when they are heated, and relying on them heavily with a loaded trunk and five passengers while negotiating the mountains of central West Virginia can test one's faith. In similar situations, downshifting and using gearing and engine compression is highly recommended. Save the brakes for the final forty feet before the hairpin turn.

[Matt129]

Other than pulling the rear hub for service, they are pretty easy to work on. As Al said, do one side at a time and use the other to represent the template for assembly.
They were adequate in their day for a normal driver; I've even locked mine up in a panic stop, something modern ABS systems are designed to prevent.
That said, all brakes suffer when they are heated, and relying on them heavily with a loaded trunk and five passengers while negotiating the mountains of central West Virginia can test one's faith. In similar situations, downshifting and using gearing and engine compression is highly recommended. Save the brakes for the final forty feet before the hairpin turn.

Is it particularly hard to pull the rear hub?

[6hk71400]

You should tell us which type of puller you are going to use, and what type you have.

[Matt129]

I probably need to buy one, which one works best?

[6hk71400]

Go to Studebakerparts.com and click on the tool purchase and rental. Once are on the home page, click on the tools link. There you will see the link stating how to remove a brake drum. Read the entire section then you can see about either buying or renting the tool.

Bob Miles
Russ and Sharon Ware are great Studebaker people 602-995-5311

[rockne10]

Is it particularly hard to pull the rear hub?

Just rquires the correct tool and a willingness to beat on it.

[Noxnabaker]

About the exentric ring I just can't help thinking that if it's just a ring it ought to be possible to make one, right? If you for example have a big & thick enough washer to start with + ofcourse one original or at least a drawing of one to copy...

[BRUCESTUDE]

I had a set of aftermarket “can rollers” that I used on a pre ‘54 car. I’ve since had a couple sets made and installed on other vehicles; a lot easier to install, and since the rear shoes don’t have self adjusters, the brakes do get adjusted periodically anyway.

[Rafe Hollister]

Since no one has said it yet, I will: Turner Disc Brakes. I put them on my 56 a year ago. I love them. Not like new cars, but much better, never need adjusting, and always stop arrow straight. Less than 700.00 for Deluxe Kit, Instal in a day if you are mechanic, 3 days if like me.
Rafe

[nvonada]

I 100% promise you the '53 brakes are better than pre-1947 ones...

[paintim613]

Our original brakes on our '53 work very well. Of course, they only have 27k miles on them.

[mbstude]

The "problem" with the '53 Champion brakes is that both front and rear drums are only 9" in diameter. They are tiny; significantly undersized for what the car is. New (or even good used) drums are non-existent, as are new shoes (relined only). Some of the self adjuster parts are getting pretty scarce too.

If you want to retain drum brakes, 1954-66 V8-powered Studes used 11" drums on the front and 10" drums on the rear. New drums, new shoes, and everything else is readily available. Used backing plates are very easy to find and the whole assembly is a bolt-on swap onto a '53.

[Dick Steinkamp]

The "problem" with the '53 Champion brakes is that both front and rear drums are only 9" in diameter. They are tiny; significantly undersized for what the car is. New (or even good used) drums are non-existent, as are new shoes (relined only). Some of the self adjuster parts are getting pretty scarce too.

If you want to retain drum brakes, 1954-66 V8-powered Studes used 11" drums on the front and 10" drums on the rear. New drums, new shoes, and everything else is readily available. Used backing plates are very easy to find and the whole assembly is a bolt-on swap onto a '53.

I totally agree with Matt. In addition, the 54-66 V8 brakes are self energizing. In other words, the brake shoes are "pulled" into the drum when they are initially applied due to the design, greatly reducing the pedal pressure to stop.

They are the least expensive way to get brakes that will perform acceptably.

It will likely cost less to install the 54 and up V8 brakes than to find and purchase the NOS parts needed to put the 53 brakes in excellent condition.

I would argue that the stock 53 Champion brakes are inadequate for today's highway speeds and traffic conditions.