google search a water/glass base media blaster in your area, I used one who came to my house and stripped panels inside and out in a couple hours.Cost wan't unreasonable for the work and time saved getting even undercoating off. The great thing was that water/glass does not warp metal..
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Here is a picture of the paint removal discs I used. You wont find anything easier,faster or cheaper.
https://www.bing.com/images/search?v...t=0&ajaxserp=0Comment
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Got started using disc and happy with results, ate up one disc doing about two thirds of hood, 10 more on order. You can see where metal is rusting under original paint and primer.Comment
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To completely get rid of the rust down in those pits will require some sort of blasting (sand or glass bead). If all of it is no worse than what is shown in these pictures, you can probably kill it by using epoxy primer. Once your are done with the stripper disc, go over the panel with 80 grit on a DA to give the metal some tooth. Then spray it with epoxy primer. If you are not going to blast it to clean metal (which is the safest bet) then I wouldn't use anything less than epoxy on the metal. You can add other types of "fill" primer on top of the epoxy.Wayne
"Trying to shed my CASO ways"
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Even if the rust is media blasted until it looks like all of he rust is gone, THERE WILL STILL BE MICROSCOPIC RUST PITS (even though you can't see them). Those WILL come back. Those can be removed quickly & easily with come kind of phosphoric acid like Rustoleum Rust Remover or Naval Jelly. OR, it could be that the epoxy primer will seal them in and stop the rust, I just don't know about this.
--DwightComment
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Save lots of money and effort, slap a few coats of clear over it and go for the Rat look! Take my advice... I'm certainly not using it.
Rafe HollisterComment
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One thing I've learned from owning & working on 6 ships in 27 years & always have to think about salt in the air going thru anything that aint properly sealed; if you have pittings one have to get rid of whatever salt or moist is in there...
So really clean water to flush away whaterver stuff you used for cleaning, then warming it up enough to see that the moist that's always(!) is in the air & on the steel gets out (it's pretty easy to see) & then while it's still warm, but not hot, you paint. That means that unless you're in a very warm room wou'll have to do it piece by piece. No use to paint on cold bare metal.
Then comes the stuff you'll put on; nothing beats real led, but that's forbiden in many countries, next best is alu primer, but both these might be impossible due to the base of the paint you're gonna use with today rules.
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[QUOTEWould rust converter or metal prep be helpful? I do have epoxy primer to use when ready.][/QUOTE]
A rust converter would turn any remaining rust into iron phosphate. I know of this type product but have never used it and then primed over it so I can't tell you what would be required as far as cleaning after the rust converter and before epoxy primer. Maybe others can chime in on that.
I know epoxy is supposed to actually seal the metal where other types of primers are porous and air and moisture can still get to the metal. So if applied properly the epoxy will seal off any remaining rust particles from air and moisture, therefore the rust can't spread any more.Wayne
"Trying to shed my CASO ways"
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I second "WDills" suggestions in post 19 and 23.... Once you get it stripped go over the whole panel with 80 grit on one of those DA's. Primer needs something to bite to to adhere and hold up on metal. Also direct to metal epoxy is the way to go. As WDill says it is non porous and will not let moisture through. But prepping that metal is also key. Then you can body work over the epoxy and use a 2k primer as your build primer.Comment
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I thought that I had mentioned the inconsistent factory parts prep during the 60's, but I couldn't find it. I've experienced the rust under original paint on two previous occasions. The first was 45 years ago when a friend was having his 62 GT painted, the other was on is my 1963 Daytona htp. Interestingly both were factory black cars. While I doubt that that had anything to do with issue it is thought provoking.Comment
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You will find this on cars other than Studebaker and also on cars striped to bare metal and not prepped right. If you don't have a small sand blaster I would just 80 grit it as good as you can and epoxy it. If you have a sand blaster just hit the rust, clean good and epoxy. I have a small hand held blaster that works great for things like this.
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Starting to see the light, not really but I will get it done using these discs.I do have media blaster if needed.
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Make sure you keep the media perfectly dry. Wet sand or any other media will clog up the hoses.
A few hints that I found helped with a siphon type blaster; elevate the media hopper as much as you can. If you have a cart set it on that. If you can get it above the height you are blasting......so much the better. The idea is for gravity to help get the media to the blast nozzle.
Blasting takes a lot of air and a compressor running constantly condenses a lot of moisture. Make sure your compressor is either really big, or just plan on breaks to allow the compressor to catch-up and cycle off and cool down. For any blasting project I put down a big tarp and put up some posts to elevate one side to form a make shift wall to blast towards. The idea is to catch your media and reuse it. I use fine blasting sand and I can generally catch and re-use maybe 75% of it.
Good luck.Wayne
"Trying to shed my CASO ways"
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