Fired right up.

[plee4139]

I must have done this because of a post I read here, but my Sky Hawk had been sitting all winter, so I put some of that spray can rocket fuel in the carb before starting and it fired right up! No endless grinding and hoping and cursing, either. My question now is this? Since I'm very slow these days getting moving from a start, wouldn't I move faster if I sprayed some of that stuff up my nose first? I welcome your comments.

[Jeffry Cassel]

Since it is ether, if you were to do that, it would more likely put you to sleep.

[StudeRich]

The better method of starting the stored Car, not YOU is; Crank the Engine First to get the Oil flowing and splashing on the Cylinder Walls, THEN squirt some Gas in the Carb. and start it up, Bad things can happen with Ether!

[j.byrd]

plee4139, don't know about the nose spraying, but at my age and "slowness", I too am ready to try almost anything to "get started", lol! I can tell you one thing for sure though, a co-worker squatted down one day and didn't notice a can of that sort of stuff, and he was able to move very quickly after it went off in the seat of his pants.... he didn't act pleased tho', ha !

[Guido]

I woke up a crawler loader I own on Sunday that I had not started since 2010. Oil change, fresh fuel, a little ether and 2 seconds of cranking and it was purring.

[BobPalma]

The better method of starting the stored Car, not YOU is; Crank the Engine First to get the Oil flowing and splashing on the Cylinder Walls, THEN squirt some Gas in the Carb. and start it up, Bad things can happen with Ether!

BINGO! That's exactly right. Ether is a bad idea even if it seems to "work." Crank it enough to show oil pressure, then pump the gas. BP

[oilnsteel]

Watch how they start radial engines on UTube, count 9 to 12 blades to build up oil pressure, then switch on the ignition.
JT

[Lark Hunter]

My question now is this? Since I'm very slow these days getting moving from a start, wouldn't I move faster if I sprayed some of that stuff up my nose first? I welcome your comments.

Not sure, but at least it would provide for a good retort whenever someone tells you to "keep your nose clean".

I echo the sentiments of others regarding the starting fluid. I do have a can of the stuff, but I can't remember the last time I actually used it. I always reach for a can of aerosol carb cleaner, using it in the same manner as you would the ether. It fires off pretty much like gasoline... so without the potential detonation or violence of ether. The latter is best reserved as a last ditch effort to get running... like when I had to retrieve my car from a train station in eastern Montana, and high temp for the day was well below zero.

[Hugh]

In reply to olinsteel, please know that the primary purpose of “counting blades” when starting radial engines, is done to be sure the lower cylinders are clear of oil and will not liquid lock and consequently separate the cyl heads from the barrel of the cylinder! You also may note several ground personnel literally “hand propping” the blades before starting to be sure no oil has seeped by the valve guides or pistons rings into the cylinder head during idle time. IF the engine started with a liquid lock, most likely there would be a very large hole created in the engine cowl from the cylinder separation. V type, flat head type and opposed cylinder designs are quite immune from this problem. The radials are the really susceptible models. If a 9 cyl,radial then the engine should turn two times to insure all cylinders are clear. In 18 cylinder radials there is a double row of 9 cylinders, and the procedure is 4 revolutions, depending on the number of prop blades, you either count 4 blades for a two blade prop, and with a 3 blade prop 6 blades, etc. Now we all know!
Thanks for the opportunity, though not Stude related, many radial engines were produced in WWII for the war efforts by, if memory serves me correctly, Studebaker!
Hugh

[Bob Andrews]

For those that don’t know, modern starting fluid contains upper cylinder lubricants, rendering it safe from the old ‘you’ll wipe out the rings’ concern.

[Ron Dame]

In reply to olinsteel, please know that the primary purpose of “counting blades” when starting radial engines, is done to be sure the lower cylinders are clear of oil and will not liquid lock and consequently separate the cyl heads from the barrel of the cylinder! You also may note several ground personnel literally “hand propping” the blades before starting to be sure no oil has seeped by the valve guides or pistons rings into the cylinder head during idle time. IF the engine started with a liquid lock, most likely there would be a very large hole created in the engine cowl from the cylinder separation. V type, flat head type and opposed cylinder designs are quite immune from this problem. The radials are the really susceptible models. If a 9 cyl,radial then the engine should turn two times to insure all cylinders are clear. In 18 cylinder radials there is a double row of 9 cylinders, and the procedure is 4 revolutions, depending on the number of prop blades, you either count 4 blades for a two blade prop, and with a 3 blade prop 6 blades, etc. Now we all know!
Thanks for the opportunity, though not Stude related, many radial engines were produced in WWII for the war efforts by, if memory serves me correctly, Studebaker!
Hugh

Indeed! I'm glad you pointed this out. At the time, there was enough residual oil from a likely recent run,that the bearings that pressure was not the issue, rather clearing the cylinders on a radial from hydrolock from oil. Likewise, steam engines initially run with the steam cocks open to drain condensate until the steam chest gets to full heat.

[345 DeSoto]

I believe you might be refering to an old Post of mine. After rebuilding the 289 in MY Sky Hawk, it took what appeared to be half a revalution for it to fire (after priming the carb)...which many people here poo-pooed...