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  • Wagon Roof loads

    Was there ever a load/carrying rating for the wagon roofs, or is that a modern vehicle concept that didn’t cross folks’ minds back in the day? For the solid roof wagons, if it makes a difference. Also, fwiw, I know not to trust my wagon’s drip rails as attachment points. TIA

  • #2
    Of course drip rail carriers are only capable of carrying a load they’re designed for, but that being said, you can rest assured the drip rail itself is VERY strong. It is a pinch weld, more or less the same as you find under the rockers of most modern unibody cars.
    Before I retired from the auto repair business, my body shop had a 10-ton frame bench used for straightening wrecked unibody cars. The cars were mounted on “pinch weld clamps” two on each side, and the 10-ton ram would stretch the wreck back into shape, relying on nothing but those pinch welds. Now I grant the drip rails aren’t quite as beefy as the rocker pinch welds, but they’re a good bit stronger than you may be giving them credit for.
    1950 Commander Land Cruiser
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    • #3
      Thank you. That's good to know. I may be thinking of the drip rail putty/filler/paint
      that is chunking in places. I haven't examined it up close, it is just something that has caught my eye as I've washed the car, but you're right, the water isn't running down through the drip rail itself, though I notice surface irregularities.

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      • #4
        I was considering cartopping a 10’ rowboat with an add on luggage rack.

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        • #5
          If your rail is in good shape that should be no problem, IMHO.
          Diesel loving, autocrossing, Coupe express loving, Grandpa Architect.

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          • #6
            I have a 54 sedan and a PO installed an accessory roof rack and over synched the rack to the drip rail and dented the roof. This was the accessory style with four suction cups and all four corners have the telltale circular dents. The guy that installed wanted to be sure it wouldn't come off, I don't think it was the load. There isn't a mark on the drip rails.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by altair View Post
              I have a 54 sedan and a PO installed an accessory roof rack and over synched the rack to the drip rail and dented the roof. This was the accessory style with four suction cups and all four corners have the telltale circular dents. The guy that installed wanted to be sure it wouldn't come off, I don't think it was the load. There isn't a mark on the drip rails.
              That makes sense, given what I see and sense on my Lark wagon roof. I'm starting to think, with the length of the roof, that it might be smart of me, if I do decide to start carrying a rooftop load, since I'd be using a strap on rooftop rack, that adding an additional rail however I could, would be a smart thing to do. Fortunately, I'm not looking at too heavy a load, nor do I plan to zip down highway speeds for hours with a load, but? at the end of the day, it's a car, I use it to carry things and us around, and stuff's gonna happen, just like it did when these cars were new. :-)

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              • #8
                Leo,

                You're right it's a car, but the passage of time has has made it a survivor. Forty years ago I would have agreed with you without equivocation. Today I'm very guarded about how I treat 60+ yo cars. I have an original 60 V8 wagon and I wouldn't think of installing a roof rack.

                I came to this realization the hard way. In 1969 I bought a 1967 Camaro RS, from a friend who had blown up the engine. It was just a car to me and I saw the opportunity to make a few dollars. I installed a used engine to resell it, but circumstances changed and I ended up keeping the car. I used the car like a truck, and yes I had those dreaded suction cup car top carriers. I carried furniture during a move that I made in the 70's. I even carried multiple eight foot sections of a picket fence. Remember it was just a car! The car served me well until the early 80's when I put it out to pasture. Now with 175K miles on it had become a treasured companion. When I decided to restore the car I had to deal with all my indiscretions. It wasn't the fender that I had to replace (for the second time) the little bit or rust that needed repair, or the countless door dings, it was the discretionary damage that I had done to the car. The most dissatisfying repair that had to be made, during it's restoration, was the dents that I had put in the top. I still own the car 50 years later, and nothing is going to see the top of that car! You might think about the next owner of your wagon, he may not think that it is just a car. Today if I can't haul something inside, I use a pickup. Bill
                Last edited by Hallabutt; 11-07-2019, 05:56 PM.

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                • #9
                  I hear you, Bill. I'll see how things go when I get to that point, and I should have carry options as well.

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                  • #10
                    Leo -

                    Yes, a pinchweld attached rack will be much stronger AND, you can place the racks farther apart to better support the cargo. And actually, per the above note from drrotor...I do believe the drip rail will at LEAST as strong if not stronger than the pinchweld at the floor of 90% cars.
                    Why, the weld at the roof is MUCH better supported by the way the materials are formed, especially at the window frame area for weight carrying capabilities. There is also normally more welds at the roof joint than the floor. Both...of these things will make the drip rail much stronger than the floor pinchweld.

                    Back to your boat... Need missing details..! Is this a wood boat, is this a fiberglass boat, is this an aluminum boat..???
                    I'd have no problem with a 10' aluminum boat. A fiberglass boat, Id say if three people can easily pick it up and put it on the roof, again, you should be good. A wood boat...maybe not so much... But again, if three people can easily put it on the car...!

                    Mike

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                    • #11
                      Most 10' rowboats will be less than 100 lbs.

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                      • #12
                        Thanks John. I was wanting a the smaller boat for easier putzing around, as well as transporting.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Mike Van Veghten View Post
                          Leo -

                          Back to your boat... Need missing details..! Is this a wood boat, is this a fiberglass boat, is this an aluminum boat..???
                          I'd have no problem with a 10' aluminum boat. A fiberglass boat, Id say if three people can easily pick it up and put it on the roof, again, you should be good. A wood boat...maybe not so much... But again, if three people can easily put it on the car...!

                          Mike
                          No Mike, the goal is to have a boat I can hoist up myself, or at worst, with a little help from my wife, is all.

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                          • #14
                            On the other hand...I've seen at least one Stude wagon rust out above or along that roof rail/pinchweld. I'm guessing from inside condensation running down or collecting at that point? But an inspection of your car's roof inside without a headliner should reveal if that is an issue with yours or not.
                            KURTRUK
                            (read it backwards)




                            Nothing is politically right which is morally wrong. -A. Lincoln

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