FRAME/BODY---PADDING/SPACERS

[Jimmie]

As I have removed the body from the frame on my "50" Champion I have found that the pads at the location of each bolt have been different thicknesses. I was thinking that this was a result of their being mashed over time in different positions etc. thereby resulting in the various thicknesses. But I found that at one pad, the one just in front of the passenger rear wheel also had a piece of steel about 1/4 " thick along with the pad. This makes me wonder if there is another reason for the different thicknesses. Other than where the metal was with the pad, the thickest mashed pad appears to be around 3/16" thick--any ideas?

If no one has a better idea, I will just use the same thickness pads throughout and bolt the body back on the frame when the time comes.

Jimmie

1950 2 timer
Orleans, Indiana

[Warren Webb]

Studebaker used different thickness pads to align the body openings. Unlike most cars today where the bodies are pretty stiff, Studebaker bodies had alot of flex in them, in addition to the frames being a bit on the "noodle" side. I would recommend that you tag each cushion to its prior location so when you remount the body, you wont have any alignment issues. This seems especially critical around the cowl & "A" pillar areas as these have a bearing on the front door alignment. For instance, say you added thicker pads on the "A" pillar area, then you would most likely have the front door post too high creating the door to misalign to the "B" pillar or center post.

60 Lark convertible
61 Champ
62 Daytona convertible
63 G.T. R-2,4 speed
63 Avanti (2)
66 Daytona Sport Sedan

[52 Ragtop]

Call Jim Lawrence at FBN Upholstry, he has new ones in stock and resonably priced! He is in "New Martinsville WV 304-337-8693

Jim

[Retired]

Advice I received from a professional vehicle restorer was to use the original pads, in their original locations, to eliminate any problems with door alignment upon reassembly. To dress up the appearance of the pads I used black shoe dye.

[sweetolbob]

Be aware that if you do significant body work, that some of the mounting points will change. I braced my 54 hardtop body before it was removed, blasted and put on the rotissere. When I lowered the body back on the frame, I put a single layer of fabric reinforced conveyor belt pieces at the closest (smallest gap) mounting points and filled the other gaps as required with metal and rubber shims. The frame was blocked about three feet off the ground at the time. Tightened uniformly and sat on the the whole assembly on the wheels. Removed bracing and hung doors. Gaps had to be adjusted, but you can now jack one wheel of the ground with little change in door gap.

Oops, should have added- Be sure the body and frame are level before shimming.

[54-61-62]

Whatever you do , don't reuse the 50+ year old rubbers. Rubber deterorates. While your body is off it's your one chance to get things right. SASCO, SI, and other venders sell the correct rubbers. It's a small cost compaired to the effort of taking the body off.

If your car is a 2dr post or 4dr sedan, I doubt you will have as many problems with shims/alignment as the pillar-less hardtop guys.

[bondobilly]

aYour in adifficult position. If you use new rubbers, you are going to throw off the body alignment. Try and find "new" rubber that has the same thickness of the old rubber.

I have worked on two Post War bod cars. both 47's which are identical to your 50. Other than changing the rubbers directly under the body along the from rails directly under the middle of the car will not cause much of an alignment issue. Changing rubbers that hold the cowl to the frame,, and the rubbers on the outriggers and the front clip will cause you some if not a lot of issues.

If you look at old factory photos where the body drop area is, you will notice that some rubbers were tapped to the frame before the body met the frame, but in those photos you will also see a few older men with aprons who stood by and would eye-ball the body to frame alignment. Their job was to add more rubber or less.

If this is your first Studdebaker restoration and everything had fit since you got it. Don't change the rubbers. Other guys will disaggree, but there is a good chance that if you do change a shim, you could lift the floor.

[58PackardWagon]

What do you do if you have already taken the shell off of the frame to put in a whole new floor and you don't have the old rubber marked?

[bondobilly]

quote:Originally posted by 58PackardWagon

What do you do if you have already taken the shell off of the frame to put in a whole new floor and you don't have the old rubber marked?

Ray Fitchthorn is probably the best one to answer that. I would suggest contacting him. With a bit of detective work you could probably figure out where the originals went by lookig at their underside and compairing them to the wear and marks on the frame. There should be marks and scars that will match up.

[Jimmie]

If Ray cannot give us a better idea, since I have already piled mine up in a pile as I took them off,and as I said before, in at least one place there was a metal one and a regular pad together, I plan to put the body back on the frame and add spacers as needed when I put the two doors on the car and as needed to level up anything else that appears to need it. Hope this works.

Jimmie

quote:Originally posted by 58PackardWagon

What do you do if you have already taken the shell off of the frame to put in a whole new floor and you don't have the old rubber marked?

1950 2 timer
Orleans, Indiana

[bams50]

I think what sweetolbob said is right on.



Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

"Some people live for the rules, I live for exceptions"- 311

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