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Opinion Wanted.......... Aftermarket Front End

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  • Opinion Wanted.......... Aftermarket Front End

    Has any one driven a car with a front end from Slick Street Stuff?
    Thanks
    Last edited by Bamajak; 04-29-2019, 05:14 PM.
    Jack White
    Charlotte,NC
    North Carolina Studebaker Drivers Club

  • #2
    A search here will find several similar questions. That it's been around for ten years without too much positive comment is an indication.

    The unasked question is what goals do you have which can't be accomplished with a rebuilt Studebaker front suspension; maybe with upgraded front and rear anti-roll bars, Koni shocks and front disc brakes.

    jack vines
    PackardV8

    Comment


    • #3
      Right, if you are building a "Road Race" Stude. doing high speed Left AND Right turns, that is about the only time you could benefit from a Power rack and pinion steering and replacement Suspension system.
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner
      SDC Member Since 1967

      Comment


      • #4
        Jack, you're in the Charlotte area I suggest you contact Fat Man Fabrication in Mint Hill. A full front end clip hub to hub will run around 4-5k. They can make it to your specifications and/or original dimensions.

        Comment


        • #5
          The BEST (I hate that word!) option...
          Rebuild your stock front end, new bushings in the rear springs, a proper alignment, new heavy duty shocks, heavy duty front and rear anti-sway bars, a set of 7" wheels and "good" radial tires. This will do more for good handling than any weld on aftermarket front end.

          To make a Stude "handle" well, your best bet is a new, full chassis with a PROPERLY designed front suspension. A weld-on Mustang II (Pinto !) is "NOT" properly designed for good handling. 99.9% of the weld on front suspension clips are NOT...read that NOT better in the geometry than the Stude front suspension. These weld on clips were made for simple manufacturing by the builder and simple installation by the buyer. NOT for a hard driving hot rod.

          So, your best bet, save your money and time, rebuild what you have, add the parts I note above, and go driving.

          This is not any sort of guess. I've seen many of these suspensions. I've helped friends install them. They are all VERY simple and not designed for anything but a "grocery getter".

          Mike

          Comment


          • #6
            What Mike said. The Studebaker front suspension is very good when properly rebuilt and aligned.

            I don't know how it got into the collective consciousness to replace Studebaker engineered systems with systems from other brands. My suspicion is that people took an old worn out Studebaker system and replaced it with a new or rebuilt system from another brand, noticed an improvement and thought that meant the new system was better engineered somehow. The truth is more like the replacement system only seemed better because it was not worn out, plus after all the work of replacing it, the cost and effort had to be justified somehow.

            Rebuilding the stock front suspension, adding sway bars and radial tires will be a lot cheaper, a lot easier, and more satisfying in the long term.
            Last edited by RadioRoy; 04-29-2019, 11:41 AM.

            Comment


            • #7
              Another solution to the problem, if there is a problem that a rebuild won't fix, is to graft a complete front clip from a later vehicle that has disc brakes, power steering and big anti-sway bars. This also allows the use of an engine that may not have fit using the Studebaker frame and steering.
              sigpic1966 Daytona (The First One)
              1950 Champion Convertible
              1950 Champion 4Dr
              1955 President 2 Dr Hardtop
              1957 Thunderbird

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by thunderations View Post
                Another solution to the problem, if there is a problem that a rebuild won't fix, is to graft a complete front clip from a later vehicle that has disc brakes, power steering and big anti-sway bars.
                Agree, that's a viable option.
                Originally posted by thunderations View Post
                This also allows the use of an engine that may not have fit using the Studebaker frame and steering.
                The Studebaker V8 is so wide and tall, I can't name a US-made post-WWII OHV8 engine which will not fit into the Stude frame and steering.

                jack vines
                PackardV8

                Comment


                • #9
                  I guess I used the wrong words........... What I really need is a product review
                  Thanks
                  Jack
                  Jack White
                  Charlotte,NC
                  North Carolina Studebaker Drivers Club

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Most Ford V8's have a problem with the oil filter and the steering box.
                    Originally posted by PackardV8 View Post
                    Agree, that's a viable option. The Studebaker V8 is so wide and tall, I can't name a US-made post-WWII OHV8 engine which will not fit into the Stude frame and steering.

                    jack vines
                    sigpic1966 Daytona (The First One)
                    1950 Champion Convertible
                    1950 Champion 4Dr
                    1955 President 2 Dr Hardtop
                    1957 Thunderbird

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Bama -

                      A...product review of what ?

                      The Studbaker body is too narrow to perform a "proper" graft, without either narrowing the donor frame clip, or using severely inset wheels, like Olds Toronado or front drive Cadillac wheels. I've seen Nova clips grafted on a few times. They have all been still-born (unfinished) cars because the owners haven't realized the width factor until too late. Unless you are ok with the tires sticking out of the fenders.

                      Maybe there's a narrower car out there...that will hold the weight of the given engine and be of a usable width. And remember, to do it correctly, just slapping something up there, still doesn't make it right. Wheel base and track need to be factored in with the new front end geometry.

                      When I did my Lark, I tried my best to use the Stude frame rails with C-Vette control arms. The control arms are too wide, even to use the whole Corvette, bolt in cross member. I had to design and build my own frame clip to use the Corvette parts. Then I HAD to have a custom rack and pinion built so the car will steer properly. "NOT"...a simple task.

                      Mike

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        My friend and neighbor had a rack and pinion installed on his 51 commander. He also used a ford 9 inch and dropped in sbc with th400. I can check to see what he used.

                        Unfortunately, it is still a work in progress, so he cannot speak to how it handles.

                        The installation does appear to be very professionally done. Since the car is on my shop, I can take pictures.
                        78 Avanti RQB 2792
                        64 Avanti R1 R5408
                        63 Avanti R1 R4551
                        63 Avanti R1 R2281
                        62 GT Hawk V15949
                        56 GH 6032504
                        56 GH 6032588
                        55 Speedster 7160047
                        55 Speedster 7165279

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Has any one driven a car with a front end from Slick Street Stuff?
                          Jack White
                          Charlotte,NC
                          North Carolina Studebaker Drivers Club

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Bamajak View Post
                            I guess I used the wrong words........... What I really need is a product review
                            Thanks
                            Jack
                            If I may be so bold, let me try to restate what Jack is asking for:

                            Can someone who has driven a car with a Slick Street Stuff front end p!ease share your driving impressions of it?
                            Mike Davis
                            1964 Champ 8E7-122 "Stuey"

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Checked with friend on 51. It is Fatman. Sure does look good.
                              78 Avanti RQB 2792
                              64 Avanti R1 R5408
                              63 Avanti R1 R4551
                              63 Avanti R1 R2281
                              62 GT Hawk V15949
                              56 GH 6032504
                              56 GH 6032588
                              55 Speedster 7160047
                              55 Speedster 7165279

                              Comment

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