1962 Hawk Fuel Gauge

[chet445]

I am in need of a fuel gauge for my '62 Hawk. I have purchased two "working" ones and they were defective. If someone has a good one please let me know. Thanks, chet445    

[gordr]

How do you know the gauge is defective, and not the sending unit, or the wiring? And is the ground to the gauge good? GT Hawks have a fiberglass dash. The box that encloses the gauges, and their illumination lamps is supposed to be grounded by a wire in the dash harness.

I would be double-checking the sending unit and the dash wiring before condemning two gauges. Those gauges rarely fail.

[52hawk]

I had to run a ground wire to the sending unit on the tank. Just a jumper from one of the screws on the pickup to the trunk floor.

[chet445]

There is no question; it is the dash gauge. I have performed all the tests.

[kmul221]

Again I have one $30.00 + $6.00 shipping

[chet445]

Assuming it is a working gauge where do I send the money? Thanks, Chet

[Dwain G.]

Did all your tests include running a ground from gauge case to ground? Most Studes did not have a true body ground. You may want to install one from gauge cluster to body, another from body to engine or frame, and a better one at the right front motor mount.

[abkco]

I also need a fuel gauge for my 63 Hawk. I have tried everything listed above, but the needle is stuck in the quarter tank position. Finally, I switched it with another hawk fuel gauge I have with a 64, and the other gauge works fine in my 63. However, I still need one. Can anyone help?
Justin

[chet445]

The gauge is grounded internally. I can run clips from the tank sending unit wire and also from the power source wire then hold the gauge in my hand and it registers correctly about half tank of fuel. I can run another clip from the mounting post to ground on the car and it will peg out. The gauge is definitely grounded inside the case as determined by me and by an individual who rebuilds these gauges. All I want is a working gauge.

[StudeRich]

The gauge is grounded internally. I can run clips from the tank sending unit wire and also from the power source wire then hold the gauge in my hand and it registers correctly about half tank of fuel.

So NOW since Yesterday, you DO have a "working" Gauge? Sounds like you are all set then.

Just don't bother grounding the dash Unit "CASE", since the internals INSIDE the case are "Grounded" by the Sending Unit and isolated/insulated from the case.

[chet445]

You do not understand what I'm saying; the internals are grounded and when I install in the dash which is fiber glass it still has a ground and pegs out. I have a working gauge if and only if I leave it out of the dash; the case it fits in is metal thus providing the ground when the gauge is placed in the dash. It gets its ground from the metal case where the posts hold it into the dash.

[gordr]

If the gauge pegs out when you connect the sending unit, then the sending unit is shorted to ground. If it pegs out with the sending unit disconnected, then either there is an internal problem with the gauge, or it has been connected wrong. Putting 12 volts to the sending unit stud, and the sending unit to the power stud could cause it to peg out, I think. I try to avoid doing that!

[StudeRich]

Yes you may be partially correct, notice that BOTH Terminals on the dash Gauge ARE insulated through the case, so neither should be grounded. so maybe there IS an internal grounding issue if the sending unit circuit is already 100 % grounded.