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**Jerry Forrester** · 07-30-2018, 03:51 PM

Originally posted by beantown hawn View Post

Hello
been working on this car for a few years and it came with SBC TH350 8 inch rear end. Decided to go custom on older and new Studebaker parts. Need advice on the door. See photo. Any suggestions how to fix?

look at the wheel photos. The driver side rear wheel is in the correct location in the wheel well. However the passengers side wheel is set further out very close to the fender. Everything is straight underneath. Suggestions why this would be

working on interior now.

Looking for comments, general suggestions and words of advice.

Either you have two different kind of wheels on the rear, or whoever installed that 8" rear end goofed up.

**thunderations** · 07-30-2018, 04:23 PM

My stock 55 President 2Dr Hardtop has that same situation. I've read several other posts with similar problems. I have not yet taken the time to measure everything and check bushings and spring attachment points to see if there are problems in those areas.
Having done many body off restorations on different makes and models, I know that bodies may be slightly crooked on the frames creating this same problem.
I would get the car on a lift and measure from the frame to the top of the fender opening on both sides to see if it's a body/frame difference. If not start checking all the mechanical features related with the rear axle being centered.
I'm sure it can be fixed, but not sure how much work it's going to require.
Of course check what Jerry mentioned because any modification can be done right or wrong and it's a good place to verify measurements. Two different offset or width wheels would certainly cause that situation too.

Originally posted by Jerry Forrester View Post

Either you have two different kind of wheels on the rear, or whoever installed that 8" rear end goofed up.

**plee4139** · 07-31-2018, 01:39 AM

My neck hurts from trying to look at those pictures.

**Blue 15G** · 07-31-2018, 06:03 AM

The right side rear wheel on CKs is often closer to the fender than the left side rear wheel is to that side fender. This has been discussed on here several times, but I can't recall the details. The search function may bring up a prior thread about this.

As for the door fit, welcome to the world of Studebaker! But it could be corrected by someone who knows how.

Nice looking Hawk, by the way.

**52hawk** · 07-31-2018, 06:58 AM

If a bodyman could see the car in person,he'd be able to tell you how to adjust that door. But,it might not be possible without doing some paint work. You don't show the door to front fender alignment-you may have some adjustment in the bottom hinge where you can pull the door in,then move the front fender accordingly.
It looks though,that you may need to 'twist' the door. [put a rubber block in between the door and post near the top,and push the door in at the bottom,twisting the door] Warning-using this method CAN cause paint damage!

**PackardV8** · 07-31-2018, 08:20 AM

If any Stude has both rear tires with the same measurement between tire and fender, it's coincidence. They weren't centered on the production line and after more than fifty years of use, abuse, accidents, modifications, they can get ever more lopsided.

As mentioned, it may require moving the body on the frame to get those two aligned. Then, it may require moving the holes in the spring mount pads to center the axle/tires.

The upside is if all that is done correctly, eight inch wide wheels of the correct offset and corresponding 245-265 tires will usually fit.

jack vines

**sweetolbob** · 07-31-2018, 10:11 AM

I'll add a couple of thoughts on the door fit. Be sure it's not due to the gaskets being mis-installed. Use the one dollar trick (c-note for the members that don't want to be known as CASO's) and be sure the gaskets have room for the door to close in a normal position.

If that's ok then I'll take the time to explain how I've done door fit for a long time. I'm not saying I'm a bodyman, I'm not but it has worked for many cars including my 54K and 74 Avanti.

You will need a 2" wide roll of 3M blue tape, a couple of pieces of 1"x 2 or 3" a foot or more longer than the door opening and some cardboard or wood shims to shim the door gaps.

Remove the striker on the door jam and the interior door card. Removing the passenger seat will also make the job easier. Tape the door opening with a couple of layers of blue tape to stop chipping and close the door. Use cardboard or wood shims to set the door gap as you loosen the door hinge bolts and adjust the door gaps and height. I usually use about a 1/8" rise at the rear of the door. Tape the door in place where it is in-line with the body.

Then pull the hinge bolts and use the wood 1" X to span the door and tape it in place to align the door and body surface near the top and the bottom of the door. Continue to adjust until the gaps and fit are to your liking.

Go back to the hinges and hold the hinge surface absolutely parallel to the door mount surface. Measure this gap and shim the hinge/door mount to this gap. Tighten the bolts. Your door should now fit well if it isn't sprung.

Pull the shims and wood and see what it looks like. If good, mark the door lock location on a piece of tape on the outside of the door, close the door and transfer the mark to the body. Reinstall the jam striker at this mark at the depth you measured on the door and reinstall the striker. The door should now close and latch.

If not, put some blue tape close to the striker and mark the location of the striker on it. Now as you adjust the striker location, you can mark where it was and go back if your adjustment doesn't help.

I know it sounds convoluted and a good body man can just make adjustments based on experience but for we mortals not used to making and seeing the effects of changes this technique has worked well for me on many cars.

Avanti, Bob

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