Vin Plate Attachment

[Topper2011]

Hi all, new guy here. I have a 1962 Hawk and I have a question on my vin plate. It looks like it's tack welded on even though the plate has provisions for pop rivets. Is this correct? I've seen pictures of one other that looks like mine, but will the CHP think someone swapped out the vin plate? I have to get a verification since it's out of the system. Also the body plate under the hood has a paint code of 6502 of which I could not find. Close as I can tell, it's Ermine White, although it looks like a faded pink. Thanks.

[studefan]

Spot welded serial number plate is correct. The number on the firewall plate is likely the body number.

[BobPalma]

What Jeff said in Post #2; everything is in order. BP

[62champ]

Welded on A-pillar is correct - anything else would be suspect. Example from two years earlier is below. Good luck.

[Topper2011]

Thanks folks. I feel better.

[55 56 PREZ 4D]

The notches in the serial number plate and holes on the A pillar were "supposed" to be lined up before spot welding but never were.

[StudeRich]

Roland (Topper2011) please read, IMPORTANT!

If you have ANY "1's" in your serial Number DO NOT let them type "I's" on your Title!
Studebaker always used "I's" for "1's".

They need to understand that your Serial Number represents a NUMERIC Number, counting all 1962 V8 Studebakers built that year at that Plant, hence the prefix "62V".
Therefore, the ONLY Alpha should be the V for V8.
This can be verified several ways, one is a Studebaker Chassis or Body Parts Catalog, Copies of the Production Orders ARE available to purchase from the Studebaker National Museum, and Most CHP Stations & DMV's should have a book of info on all makes and years, they just need to LOOK!

They will try to "assume" older Cars are like current Cars, with all the Paint and Equipment Codes scrambled in Alphas & Numeric's etc. That NEVER happened on ANY 1960's U.S. Car.

After the CHP Officer writes your verified Serial Number on the Form, LOOK at it carefully and make HIM correct errors NEVER fix them yourself, the whole process at the DMV will be thrown out, and you will need to start over back to the CHP.
I would make the Verification Officer AT THE DMV do the Verification at a DMV office that has that service (call and ASK) if I were you, NOT the CHP!

Good luck with your vehicle I.D. verification and Registration, I have Registered Dozens of Studebakers at Calif. DMV and will NOT let untrained individuals force me to damage my Cars History with Wrong Numbers, if they give you ANY trouble at all ask for a Supervisor.

[55 56 PREZ 4D]

[QUOTE=StudeRich;1111769]Roland (Topper2011) please read, IMPORTANT!

If you have ANY "1's" in your serial Number DO NOT let them type "I's" on your Title!
Studebaker always used "I's" for "1's".

Studerich
Studebaker always used "I's" for "1's" because the old typewriters had no "1" on them.
So, you would want DMV to type "I" on your paperwork to match original paperwork, body tag and frame serial numbers. Correct ???

[StudeRich]

Absolutely NOT! A number is a NUMBER!

All of my Original Titles from when New, and all subsequent Calif. Titles show "1's".

If your Serial Number is 63V-114257 it is the 114257th 1963 Studebaker Eight Cylinder Car off the South Bend Line, and says so in the Parts Catalog, (ALL #'s) it is NOT 63V-II4257 because the "I's" are REALLY 1's!

The "I"s" are not used on ANY "Paperwork", I don't think they were used on the secret serial number on the frame, neither were the "63V" type codes.

I have a Wash. Title that some prior owner's careless DMV person mis-identified a Lark Six "63S" as: "635", it would cost me $100.00 to have a Washington Patrol Officer verify the Frame and Serial Number plate, and then a Re-Title probably another $150.00 to $200.00 to get it right, I will SELL the Car first, before contributing to MORE Statewide wasteful spending!

[Topper2011]

Absolutely NOT! A number is a NUMBER!

All of my Original Titles from when New, and all subsequent Calif. Titles show "1's".

If your Serial Number is 63V-114257 it is the 114257th 1963 Studebaker Eight Cylinder Car off the South Bend Line, and says so in the Parts Catalog, (ALL #'s) it is NOT 63V-II4257 because the "I's" are REALLY 1's!

The "I"s" are not used on ANY "Paperwork", I don't think they were used on the secret serial number on the frame, neither were the "63V" type codes.

I have a Wash. Title that some prior owner's careless DMV person mis-identified a Lark Six "63S" as: "635", it would cost me $100.00 to have a Washington Patrol Officer verify the Frame and Serial Number plate, and then a Re-Title probably another $150.00 to $200.00 to get it right, I will SELL the Car first, before contributing to MORE Statewide wasteful spending!

Thanks everybody, you guys are a wealth of knowledge. Glad I asked.

[jg61hawk]

You may want to order the production sheet from the museum because that will match the body number and the serial number which will aid in confirming all is well. If the original engine is there that's even better proof.

[Topper2011]

You may want to order the production sheet from the museum because that will match the body number and the serial number which will aid in confirming all is well. If the original engine is there that's even better proof.

How can I do that?

[studegary]

How can I do that?

Contact the Studebaker National Museum. You can order the production order from their web site.

[StudeRich]

Here is the Production Order Copy Link to the SNM from our Homepage (indirectly).

https://www.studebakermuseum.org/store/studebaker-production-orders

[Topper2011]

Here is the Production Order Copy Link to the SNM from our Homepage (indirectly).

https://www.studebakermuseum.org/store/studebaker-production-orders

Thanks, just ordered it.