Brakes on 1950 Land Cruiser Better Than Expected

[TWChamp]

I removed the front wheels and drums today, and was surprised at how nice everything looked. Looks like it had a recent brake job and new hoses installed. I had the neighbor push the brake pedal while I watched for piston movement. The pistons on the right front were just lightly stuck from not being used, and after pumping the brake pedal a few times, they work fine now. Tomorrow, if it doesn't rain, I'll check out the rear brakes.

The front drums were on the wrong sides, as the right side had left hand threads for the studs. The left side wheel bearing was adjusted about one slot tighter than it should be, and both sides had a bit more brake drag than I like. I was surprised to see the short shoe bonded, while the long shoe was riveted, on each side.

[tim333]

Brakes are not to regard lightly, if the piston was sticking I’d be safe and rebuild or replace that cylinder. Remember how old your car is, replace all your brake hoses and lines, cylinders as needed if not rebuildable. Safety first!!

[StudeRich]

Good for 'Them", they got the Automatic Adjusters in there AND the Short Shoes correctly to the Rear!

Those Big 11 Inch Commander Brakes gotta DO something!

I do don't like those CASO Shoe Return Spring "EXTENSIONS" though!

It must be the Wrong Spring, like a 521407 for a Champion, you need the 521567 on all 4.

That could be the cause of your dragging Brakes, Plus the stuck Wheel Cylinders.

At least CHECK the Cyl. Bores for Pits, Hone if needed and replace the Rubber, they could have been on there for 20-30 Years!

[TWChamp]

Yes, I wasn't too fond of seeing that spring extension either. I'll measure the hole distance, then call Brake and Equipment to see what they can offer.

[StudeRich]

The 521567 Return Spring IS available! AND they're NOS with the Correct Tension and Link length.

http://studebakervendors.com

[Blue 15G]

Congratulations on getting a car that had recent brake work. Every old car that I bought to restore needed new brake lining. Invariably, when I pulled the drums the lining was down to the thickness of "nil". You would think in 5 cars that maybe ONE of them would have had usable shoes, but no!

[jimmijim8]

Are you sure

Right side studs-lug nuts do tighten to the left. jimmijim

I removed the front wheels and drums today, and was surprised at how nice everything looked. Looks like it had a recent brake job and new hoses installed. I had the neighbor push the brake pedal while I watched for piston movement. The pistons on the right front were just lightly stuck from not being used, and after pumping the brake pedal a few times, they work fine now. Tomorrow, if it doesn't rain, I'll check out the rear brakes.

The front drums were on the wrong sides, as the right side had left hand threads for the studs. The left side wheel bearing was adjusted about one slot tighter than it should be, and both sides had a bit more brake drag than I like. I was surprised to see the short shoe bonded, while the long shoe was riveted, on each side.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]72321[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]72322[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]72323[/ATTACH]

[PackardV8]

While you're down in there, flush the brake fluid. East of the Rockies, it should be done every two years and in the dry states at least every five years. It's an oil change for your brakes. Keeps them happy.

jack vines

[TWChamp]

I was able to remove and clean the wheel cylinder before the rain comes, and they sure needed it. I'm going to find some new brake springs at Brake and Equipment in a few minutes. The left side has a good original spring, so I hope I can match it up and buy 4 new ones. Hopefully I can get the fronts done before the rain starts.

[TWChamp]

Right side studs-lug nuts do tighten to the left. jimmijim

In 1962 I removed a flat on my 1950 Champion field car, and in 1970 I did a brake job on my 1950 Commander, and I'm sure both car's left sides used left hand studs.

[StudeRich]

Right side studs-lug nuts do tighten to the left. jimmijim

If the Right side (Passenger side) Lug Nuts tighten to the LEFT, that's Counterclockwise!
Your Drums are on the WRONG side of the Car.

Also, Drums with Left Hand thread were not used after 1957, so they would not originally be on a '62 or '63 Hawk.

The Studs are stamped "L".

[TWChamp]

Brake and Equipment didn't have the brake spring, so just for laughs I stopped at Auto Zone and asked for Studebaker brake spring. He said "Studebaker, what's that?"
I said it's a Studebaker, but he stood there in a daze. An older customer at the counter just laughed.

[TWChamp]

Removed the rear drums and hubs today. Both axle nuts didn't even have 10 ft lbs of torque, but the hubs were sure stuck tight to the axles. The left side took a good 20 minutes of turning the big screw and hammering on the puller until it finally came loose. Found a couple shoe clips were loose and some brake parts were lightly rubbing of the drum. So far all I need to buy is one correct spring and 4 shoe retaining clips, and a quart of silicone DOT 5 brake fluid. I haven't had Commander/Land Cruiser brakes apart since I did my 50 Commander in 1970, but this parking cable end doesn't look right to me. I'll check it more tomorrow if it doesn't rain.

[StudeMann]

I may be wrong, but doesn't DOT 5 fluid require a different rubber composition? Maybe I'm confused with ethanol fuel.
I also thought there may be leakage issues with older wheel cylinders which may have pits.
Jim

[62champ]

DOT 5 does not require a different type of rubber composition, but they do require replacing all the rubber components in the brake system and a couple drops of DOT 3 in the brake switch to extend its lifespan.