Frame / Springs: 1961 Lark UPPER CONTROL ARM removal problem

[Gregor]

I am removing the entire front end of my 1961 Lark to rebuild it. The only problem I have is, of course, the show stopper. I can see the two main bolts that hold the inner control arm (upper) to the crossover frame BUT I cannot see the nuts to even get a wrench on them.
The manual says to be careful to not drop the nuts into the inside of the frame but I cannot even see them. How do you get to them to put a wrench on the nuts? It is easy to see the bolts (one from the inside of the engine compartment and the other from under the wheel well), not problem there.

I have the car up on many safe jack stands and the wheel off, the backing plate out of the way and have followed the manual to the "T". It has been direct and easy until now. I have laid under the car and looked directly up to try and find the nuts but cannot see them.

In following the manual, the last thing you do to drop the front end spring is the removal of those two bolts, then the entire assembly sets down on the ground just like the pictures in the book. I only write this to let you know I am following the exact procedure in the manual and in that same order. So far so good,,,,until now.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks,
Gregor

[Studebakercenteroforegon]

You don't need to see the nuts to remove them! Use a 3/4" box wrench and reach in the open area until you can feel the nut location. You might have to turn the bolt a little for the wrench to fit the nut hex. Once the nut is held, unscrew the bolts. I usually put some masking tape in the wrench opening to act as a cradle for the nut so it can be removed. Smearing some grease on the wrench will catch the lock washer. No panic if you do drop the nut or washer - just replace them with new - which is probably a good idea anyway.

[BRUCESTUDE]

You don't need to see the nuts to remove them! Use a 3/4" box wrench and reach in the open area until you can feel the nut location. You might have to turn the bolt a little for the wrench to fit the nut hex. Once the nut is held, unscrew the bolts. I usually put some masking tape in the wrench opening to act as a cradle for the nut so it can be removed. Smearing some grease on the wrench will catch the lock washer. No panic if you do drop the nut or washer - just replace them with new - which is probably a good idea anyway.

Good ole mechanic advice; tape and grease! I remember this procedure being easier than it first looked too.

[DieselJim]

If all you are doing is replacing the spring, just remove the nut on the bottom of the king pin. Then lower the control arm and spring.

[altair]

I just removed the set on my 54 Champion and yes it was a challenge. I stuffed a rag in the tunnel where the nuts could drop. With the wheel off you can see the nuts with a flashlight through a hole right under the upper A frame. I also believe if the shock is removed you can see up through the hole where it comes through. I had best results by blocking the frame and placing a hydraulic jack under the spring and remove the upper control arm bushing and lower the spring and lower control arm. I either used a socket or box end to remove the nut. Re assembly was just about as challenging, I could not get my hand in side the opening a small child may be able to help hold the nut. I fabricated two different shaped pieces of wood formed on my band saw to fit in to the space. I used a hole cutter to cut a hole in the piece of wood deep enough to hold the nut. I inserted the makeshift holder with the nut and looked down the hole until the nut was directly under the hole and turned the bolt into the nuts, a little backyardish but it worked.

[Quentin]

Have just completed this job, and while not complex, it was in no way easy. (As I was replacing springs as well, I cut them out with a gas-axe, so I cheated a bit). For those upper arm bolts, they were extremely resistant after 50 years, and I had to "phone a friend" so we were on one spanner each. The nuts can be seen with a flashlight if you need to sight them.... Even so, one bolt put up a fight for an hour or so. Painful. Found levels of patience and tolerance I didn't know I had, quite therapeutic really, in a knuckle skinning, swear-my-head-off kind of way. I didn't worry about losing the old nuts, as I had replacement bolts ( a very good idea, as next time the job will be easy). On re-assembly, I used Maxwell Smart's "the ooold tape on the spanner trick" which worked a treat (It is actually recommended in the manual), plus rags stuffed in the crossmember just in case, with no drama. Have some solace in the fact that you won't have to do it again for a few years!

[Gregor]

Thanks for all your recommendations, I am glad to see its not totally me! i got all the lower items loose as the book recommends, also the upper pin and bushings but the books says to remove that inner upper rod on the cross member and I just can't see it and my hands can't fit in the space allowed.
I do appreicate all your help, thanks for calming me down. I have already gone through those "swear-my-head-off" expletives and hope to move in a more positive direction now that I know it can be done Again, thank you all!!!

[Son O Lark]

You can pull a finger off a disposable glove and place over the wrench end to hold the nut too. Usually I pull a old dirty one from out of the garbage can. Nitrile, vinyl or latex---they all will work. There won't be any sticky from the tape on your wrench either.

[Gregor]

After re-reading this I felt that maybe I wasn't clear. I am following the manual to "remove the upper control arm", also, it states in "removing the spring" that you remove that upper arm as well. My problem is that the spring is in the way to get the wrenches on the nuts, there is no room. Granted, if the spring was already out of the way, it would not be a problem but I cannot get past the spring and that is what I am trying to remove.
I am re-bushing and replacing new bearings on front end so everything needs to come out, its just that the spring is in the way for my big paws and I can't see around it either. I realize all I need to do is put a wrench on those nuts but it is impossible to get to them. I KNOW I am doing something WAY wrong, it can't be this hard

[41 Frank]

The wrench to hold the nut needs to be inserted between the control arm and frame. You may have to place a jack under the lower control arm to gain enough space to get your wrench on the nut because if the suspension is hanging down you will never get a wrench on the nuts.
That is the way I do it anyway.

[rkapteyn]

The way I remove the front spring and "A" arms is to remove one bolt on each side of the lower inner shaft of the lower "A" arm after removing the shocks and put 2 foot long allthread threaded rod in the place of the two bolts and then remove the other two bolts and slowly back off the nuts on the threaded rod to decompress the spring and remove it.
Remove the threaded rod and flip the lower "A" arms up and than it is easy to rmove the upper "A" arm shoulder bolts and nuts.
Make sure to reuse the upper "A" frame special shoulder bolts and do not use hardware store bolts.
Robert Kapteyn

[Gregor]

First of all a major THANKS to all of you who helped me through this removal project. I even "didn't lose" the nuts or washers on the upper control arm. However, in recruiting some "help" in cleaning these parts prior to my install, my helper removed the mark I made on the upper INNER control arm shaft (passenger side only). I had made the mark because the manual states to put them back with the same side UP and the same location.the same way/location they came from.
I used a yellow marker and my helper cleaned it off so I cannot determine which side is UP.
THE MANUAL STATES: "The holes in the inner shaft are drilled off the centerline of the shaft and turning the shaft over will increase or decrease the camber slightly less than 1 1/4 degree. Therefore, on reassembly it is important that the shaft be installed in its original position."
I must admit this is my first rodeo and I dont know how to get back to the original position.

[Quentin]

are you saying you didn't mark the drivers side?

[TWChamp]

Are there any telltale marks left from the mounting area that might indicate the original position? Things such as rust stains, or wear marks, etc.

[64V-K7]

The upper inner pin is installed so the larger bump is toward the engine. This increases the amount of (positive) camber on the wheel side (and is the way every car I've owned has been assembled)