Cool/Heat: 289 Engine Block Flush

[Studebaker1962]

I removed the 2 rear threaded plugs. Only a tablespoon each side of brownish gritty sand with some coat hanger scraping. Can I block the bottom hose, remove the thermstat, fill the block with water and some flushing product. Let soak, then remove the plugs and use garden hose to blast from the thermostat housing. In my mind this sould get me close to a clean block yes/no??

I have read that to be the most thurough is to remove the freeze plugs but: 1) that looks to be a BIG effort and 2) The amout of gritty brown sand was, in my opinion very minimal. Or is that alot?? The car has the oil bath filter which I have read is superior to the paper filters. I hope this supports that my amount of grit is minimal. I hope to flush from the top front to the back rear of the block as described.

Thanks,
Jim

[kamzack]

Knock the freeze plugs out. Pressure wash into the openings. probe and poke rear most openings the most. There isn't a Studebaker block that doesn't have casting sand at the rear of the block. When you think you've bout got it, poke some more and pressure wash. Stuff sets up like concrete and will come nearly black. Engine get hotter at the rear anyway but is usually compounded by casting sand and buildup. Use long bottle washer in all the gallies.
Folk here can walk you through bout anything Studebaker
Hope this helps,
Kim

[SN-60]

One method that may work pretty well if You don't want to remove the freeze plugs is to thread a brass fitting into the threaded hole, then attach a garden hose to the fitting. Remove the thermostat housing and thermostat, and also the lower radiator hose and reverse flush the system, one side at a time. If the system really isn't horribly plugged up, this should take care of it!

[52 Ragtop]

I made up an adapter to thread into the block, and attaches to a garden hose, remove the lower hose and both rear plugs, then using a coat hanger, push, prod, poke through the opposite drain plug, I did that on a Lark, and it took a lot of poking to finally get some water out the other side. Once I was satisfied that side was pretty clear, I moved the hose to the other side and did it again. just a hint, wear dirty clothes and DON'T do it in the middle of winter unless you live where it stays warm! You WILL get soaked!

Jim

[SN-60]

I made up an adapter to thread into the block, and attaches to a garden hose, remove the lower hose and both rear plugs, then using a coat hanger, push, prod, poke through the opposite drain plug, I did that on a Lark, and it took a lot of poking to finally get some water out the other side. Once I was satisfied that side was pretty clear, I moved the hose to the other side and did it again. just a hint, wear dirty clothes and DON'T do it in the middle of winter unless you live where it stays warm! You WILL get soaked!

Jim

Wow!....and I thought that I just dreamt that adapter/fitting thing up!

[52-fan]

I have read that to be the most thorough is to remove the freeze plugs but: 1) that looks to be a BIG effort and 2) The amount of gritty brown sand was, in my opinion very minimal. Or is that a lot?? The car has the oil bath filter which I have read is superior to the paper filters. I hope this supports that my amount of grit is minimal. I hope to flush from the top front to the back rear of the block as described.

Thanks,
Jim

The oil bath or paper air filter would have no effect on the amount of sand in the block. The sand and often pieces of wire are left over from the casting process.

[Studebaker1962]

I wrote that I removed both plugs prematurely. Right side is out with as I said a scant amount of grit. Drivers side is stuck. I used PB blaster, peened it and used a breaker bar. I am afraid to break it off in the block.....That would be a disaster.

Unless any ideas to free this block plug, I will flush as best I can. But as said not much sand/grit in the block.

JIm

[SN-60]

I wrote that I removed both plugs prematurely. Right side is out with as I said a scant amount of grit. Drivers side is stuck. I used PB blaster, peened it and used a breaker bar. I am afraid to break it off in the block.....That would be a disaster.

Unless any ideas to free this block plug, I will flush as best I can. But as said not much sand/grit in the block.

JIm

Heat from a shop torch would probably loosen that frozen pipe plug....but it's been in there a long time, and You may lose the threads in the engine block!

[Studebaker1962]

Yes I mispoke that the sand is an artifact of the casting process and not due to air filtration. I dare not break off the driver side plug. There is such a minor amount of grit on the right side. I will flush from top hose, bottom hose and from right side block plug. I am going to discharge into my wheel barrow with an old bed sheet as a sieve to see what comes out.

[SN-60]

Yes I mispoke that the sand is an artifact of the casting process and not due to air filtration. I dare not break off the driver side plug. There is such a minor amount of grit on the right side. I will flush from top hose, bottom hose and from right side block plug. I am going to discharge into my wheel barrow with an old bed sheet as a sieve to see what comes out.

Since this block appears to be relatively clean...You should be all set flushing as You describe.

[over50]

Try CRC Freeze Off on that plug that won't come out. Be patient. You might luck out - pun intended.
Norm

[Xcalibur]

The only way to do it and be sure is to not only use chemicals, but employ "mechanical" s**t removal, as well. I've a set of specially "bent" tools I made to actually go in via ALL the open block holes and scrape the inside of the block. It is amazing (and scary) what else comes out after chemical cleaning, just like in the threaded holes!

[jimmijim8]

I would say that removing the soft plugs is the sure/only way to clean the block. jimmijim

[jackb]

see post #13

[55 56 PREZ 4D]

What jimmijim8 says.
Without removing the soft plugs you won't really know if you removed all or most of the sludge/crud/sand/grit in the block.
That stuff can be thick and crusty and require scrapping, digging and mechanical means to break it loose.
Reach into the corners and behind the cylinder walls with bent rods through the soft plug openings.
Use a length of brake line or copper line with an adapter onto a water hose to direct a strong blast of water into the corners.
Scrap and flush several times, you'll be amazed at how much "stuff" continues to come out.
After it's back together use a good cooling system flush and neutralizer to complete the cleaning.
To drill out the rear plug, drill just smaller than the thread diameter, use a chisel to collapse the plug onto itself, then pliers to remove the pieces.
Pipe dope on the new plug will hopefully make it easier if it needs to be removed again.