This is just a FYI on replacing the window rollers on our GT Hawk. I believe the same rollers are used on 53 through '64 K body cars. There was more rust on these rollers than on the rest of the car. I think I could put a watch together now. The springs are really a pain to install.
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K Body Window Rollers
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Body / Glass: K Body Window Rollers
Perry
\'50 Business Champion
\'50 Starlight Champion
\'60 Lark Convertible,
\'63 GT R1,
\'67 Triumph TR4ATags: None
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I packed the bearings and surrounding area with white lithium grease. cheers jimmijimsigpicAnything worth doing deserves your best shot. Do it right the first time. When you're done you will know it. { I'm just the guy who thinks he knows everything, my buddy is the guy who knows everything.} cheers jimmijim*****SDC***** member
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A few were still good but at least half were shot as there was no evidence of lube. There are 3 different types of 5 bearings per window. The difference is the centered axles within the bearings. Look closeley when you get your bearing kit. Be very observant upon disassembly and you should not have any problems. It ain't brain surgery. cheers jimmijimsigpicAnything worth doing deserves your best shot. Do it right the first time. When you're done you will know it. { I'm just the guy who thinks he knows everything, my buddy is the guy who knows everything.} cheers jimmijim*****SDC***** member
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It might not be brain surgery, but it sure is a PITA.
Especially when it comes to the pic in the service manual.
Had a disintegrated window set, and a bag of SI parts.
Took a few hours to piece it together properly.
Originally posted by jimmijim8 View Post<snip> It ain't brain surgery.
cheers jimmijimHTIH (Hope The Info Helps)
Jeff
Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain
Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)
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I'm glad I'm not the only one that took a few hours to accomplish the project. As a reference, the SI part numger is 801453Perry
\'50 Business Champion
\'50 Starlight Champion
\'60 Lark Convertible,
\'63 GT R1,
\'67 Triumph TR4A
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Yours is in awesome shape to start!!!! Here are the parts of the side I've been able to remove.
Here is the other one ! After 6 hours in the Electrolysis tank and power scrubbing, I'm approaching a point we may be able with a few more cycles to remove the rollers.
Yes, it looks pretty rough but at this point I still think I can save the carrier. Another 24 hours in the tank and angle grinder/wire brush should make major difference.
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Originally posted by fpstude;686976
[IMGhttp://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p276/fpstude/P1010769w.jpg[/IMG]
edit: rats, the picture didn't come through. It's the second picture in post number 1 from fpstude.
PaulI finally have a Stude I can drive! (sort of)
1962 GT Hawk, 4 speed, a/c
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Check this thread. I posted my old sketches of the window frames and rollers.
In reading your post, are you asking about the "bottom" of the window frame the bottom of the glass sits in? That is removed from the rest of the frame with 2 screws on each end. The bottom rear of the rest of the window frame that has the rollers mounted in it does not come off. It is welded to the stainless frame. I had to weld cracks in the stainless right near the welds when I reworked the windows. Its a high stress area from pulling on there when opening or closing the door and not using the handle (in or out).
I still wonder if SI has the cartons of NOS GT windows I saw at SASCO in 2007.Last edited by Jeff_H; 09-23-2014, 05:06 AM.
Jeff in ND
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Originally posted by Jeff_H View Post
Thanks, that's exactly what I was wanting to know. No wonder everybody says changing the rollers is a PITA.
PaulI finally have a Stude I can drive! (sort of)
1962 GT Hawk, 4 speed, a/c
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