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  • Clutch / Torque Converter: Bellhousing alignment.

    It's finally time for the new clutch in the '55. I have determined that when they swapped the 289 into my '55 they swapped the engine and trans as a unit and there are no signs that they have ever been seperated. Will I have to dial in the bellhousing when I put it back on since it is with it's original engine? Do I have to do anything prior to removal to preserve the current alignment? TIA.

  • #2
    If you are sure that it's the bellhousing that's original to the engine, you won't have to dial it in. Just make sure that the alignment dowels that hold the bellhousing-to-block alignment are present! Without them, you'll have lots of problems.

    Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

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    • #3
      If you are convinced that it is a factory matched and dialed pair it should be OK. You can always check it for concentric with a Dial Indicator though.

      If you had an Automatic, they did have a centering tool at the Dealers to center the Converter to the housing before bolting it up, but with a Standard, not necessary.

      If the year (model) of the Trans. is the same as the engine, that would be a good indicator that the Clutch housing is correct.

      The 1958 & later, long tail T-86 Std. and O.D. do not use the same bolt pattern and clutch housing as the old short tail (bolted yoke) '51-'57 T-86. Match that to the engine number (year) and you have a clue what someone did.
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner
      SDC Member Since 1967

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      • #4
        Thanks guys. I'm 100% positive the engine, bellhousing and trans are original to each other. The speedometer gears in the trans are for 3.54 gears by my calculations from the speedometer error with the original 4.27 gears. A 3.54 was not available with OD until '56 and then only behind a 289. My engine is a '56 289 out of a President or Sky Hawk and there are other clues as well that they have all been together for a VERY long time. I'll double check for dowels before we pull the bellhousing though.

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        • #5
          There should be two, one on the left and one on the right. You probably won't notice them until you separate the bell from the block; then you'll see them sticking out

          Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

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          • #6
            Originally posted by showbizkid View Post
            There should be two, one on the left and one on the right. You probably won't notice them until you separate the bell from the block; then you'll see them sticking out
            Wouldn't the holes go all the way through the bellhousing flange like a GM? I've done too many GM clutches to count over the years, to the point I even made my own GM clutch alignment tool out of 6061 aluminum back in the 70's. I was too cheap to buy one, guess I was destined to own a Studebaker LOL.

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            • #7
              Yeah, they do go all the way through. But on a Stude you don't notice because of all the grease buildup

              Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

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              • #8
                Originally posted by showbizkid View Post
                Yeah, they do go all the way through. But on a Stude you don't notice because of all the grease buildup
                The engine and bellhousing on mine are fairly grease free, I'll be able to see. The transmission however is quite a different story.........

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