Cool/Heat: thermostat woes

[JoeC]

When I got my 62 Hawk it was without a thermostat. I ordered one from Rock Auto. No problems until I tried to install it. The thermostat has a outside diameter of 2 1/2". My thermostat housing has a seat that is 2 1/8". Do I have the wrong gooseneck?? How available are these??
I've finally put the car away for the winter and this is the first time I've taken a wrench to it. I thought everything was supposed to go smoothly.
Thanks.
Joe

[41 Frank]

I get mine at my local parts place,same as Chevy.

[Warren Webb]

According to Nate's chart it takes a 330-(temp of the thermostat follows either 160, 180 or 195) that fits a small block Chevy.

http://www.georgiastudebaker.com/Interchange.pdf

[Gunslinger]

According to Nate's chart it takes a 330-(temp of the thermostat follows either 160, 180 or 195) that fits a small block Chevy.

http://www.georgiastudebaker.com/Interchange.pdf

Yep...same 'stat as a Chevy from that time period. Just pick the temp you want it to open at. The original 170 degree thermostat that Studebaker specified, at least for Avantis is long unavailable.

One bit of advice...you might want to use one of the "fail-safe" thermostats...they're designed so if they fail, they do so in the open position so the engine doesn't overheat.

[JoeC]

Okay, I understand what you're saying. I'm just wondering what is the right size for me. Should I have a gooseneck that can accept a 2 1/2" thermostat or do I need a thermostat that has a diameter of 2 1/8"??
On a brighter note, I have no idea what a "Fail-safe' thermostat is.
Joe

[DEEPNHOCK]

Rookies....

http://www.motoradusa.com/products/failsafethermo/index.html

http://www.motoradusa.com/catalog.php?Catalog=MotoRad&year=1961&make=STUDEBAKER&model=HAWK&engine=V8+4.8L+289cid+GAS+CARB+N

[StudeRich]

Okay, I understand what you're saying. I'm just wondering what is the right size for me. Should I have a gooseneck that can accept a 2 1/2" thermostat/Cut/ Joe

Joe to answer your question, NO.
The stat you bought is probably just another very common on these non-Stude. websites "listing error". It is for a '51 to '60 V-8 with a FOUR bolt housing, you need the smaller one for '61 to '64 Studes. with the Two bolt water outlet.

They measure very close to 2 inches and are known as 54 millimeter, that is what mine are marked as.

Studebakers do not use over 180 degree temp. stats either, they came with 170 from the factory.

[JoeC]

Thank you. Very good information.
Joe

[K-Hawk]

NAPA had mine 160 degree or 180 I choose the 180 I had to make the gasket 7.00 dollars. I had my goose neck with me. I avoid ordering things I can not compare and examine prior to purchase. I think 259 engines can have a smaller thermo stat housing than 289.

[Bud]

259 and the 289 engines share the same water manifold. The size of the thermostat depends on the year of the engine. Both my 62 Hawk and my 63 Avanti use the Chevy style thermostat and the NAPA gasket number is 1038ST. The earlier V8 engines use the same thermostat as a Chrysler V8 engine. Bud

[jclary]

When I got my 62 Hawk it was without a thermostat. I ordered one from Rock Auto. No problems until I tried to install it. The thermostat has a outside diameter of 2 1/2". My thermostat housing has a seat that is 2 1/8". Do I have the wrong gooseneck?? How available are these??
I've finally put the car away for the winter and this is the first time I've taken a wrench to it. I thought everything was supposed to go smoothly.
Thanks.
Joe

Hi Joe, By looking at your post count...looks like you are kinda new...so, welcome to the forum. Your statement, I highlighted above, indicates that you must be relatively young, or new to the vintage car world. Many of us have probably had what we thought would be 15 minute task turn into weeks of work. (Oh to be so innocent!)

If I were you, I would be concerned about why there was no thermostat in the first place. To me, that indicates that there may be other problems with the engine's cooling. If you have joined a local chapter of the SDC, you might want to consult with fellow members who have experience with these engines. Your's might be in need of a good cleaning, water pump, and radiator work. That could be as simple as a system flush or as involved as removing all the core (freeze) plugs and thorough purging of the water passages in the block.

Better to find out now than next spring when you get all dressed up for a cruise and end up riding back home on a roll-back.

[JoeC]

Yes & no

Thanks for all the help guys.
The line "I thought things were supposed to go smoothly" was supposed to be a joke. I'll try harder next time. I've been into Studes since my grandfather. He had a bullet nose and I was sold. In my
20's I had a 53 coupe, 54 coupe, and a 57 hawk. After that I kind of drifted away from them.
Sad to say, no local club. I'm at the end of the known universe in Downeast Maine. We've got some local studebakers but no organization.
I'm now relearning how to work on them. I think the last owner couldn't find the right thermostat. By the looks of things, he replaced what was easy to find and quit. I think that's why he replaced the upper radiator hose (with a universal one) but not the lower one (it's in sad shape).
The car is now officially off the road for the season. The new thermostat is in and now I'm looking for the right hoses. I've got weepy freeze plugs and a droolin' trans pan as well. I'm not sure if I'm ready to take on the freeze plugs or not. I'm afraid my chiropractor will start yelling at me again when I try and explain how my back went out again.
Again, thanks for the help. I know before the winter is over I'm going to be asking a bunch of dumb/dumber questions. You guys are good tech as well as moral support.
Joe

[41 Frank]

Molded radiator hoses are available from most Studebaker vendors.

[tbirdtbird]

"I avoid ordering things I can not compare and examine prior to purchase."
Really good advice unless you are dealing with Studebaker vendors.
Since you are having this problem, when you order from SI or Stude vendor of your choice, ask them on the phone what is the diam of what they are sending you to be sure. It is doubtful you have the wrong gooseneck. The recess in the block for the lip of the stat is the real determining factor.

Rock Auto is not all its cracked up to be. I have seen them ship a ton of stuff that was wrong for many new applications.

You are only as good as your parts suppliers so find a good one and stay with'em

If you have been running the car at all and it has not overheated than the rest of the system is prolly OK.
A good rad. test is to disconnect the hoses, put a tennis ball or other sim. sized ball in the lower outlet, fill with water, and pull the ball out. If it takes more than 8 secs for the rad to totally drain then it is plugged up and needs a rad. shop

And just for the record, as stated above, this is no longer 50s America, even tho we wish it were, so pretty much Nothing is Easy!