Hawk rear leaf spring bushings - Where to buy? Interchange?

[chet445]

Where can I get the rear shackle spring bushings for 1962 Studebaker Hawk? All leads appreciated. email: riokie@gmail.com or PM. Thank you, chet445

[DEEPNHOCK]

https://mystudebaker.com/

[r1lark]

Or www.studebakerparts.com

[StudeRich]

Here are More of the Studebaker Vendors: http://studebakervendors.com

All of them and more, keep these Rear Spring Eye and Frame Bushings in stock.

[Studebakercenteroforegon]

To indicate they are not available on the open market - my best customer for leaf spring bushings is Oregon Auto Spring in Portland. So, as noted, go to the established Studebaker parts suppliers. These parts are not that expensive.

[Mrkelly]

I just ordered a complete set (front and rear bushings) from Danny at Stephen Allen’s, the cost was about $70.00 plus shipping.

[sals54]

The best and cheapest rear bushings I've used on my 54 Coupe were from an early Jeep. I cut the bushings so I could use one and a half bushings per eye. I buy the urethane bushings to keep it tight.
Now then, I believe the later Hawks have a larger eye diameter on the front of the spring. But I can't remember when it changed.

[bensherb]

I made these from "Delrin" and 3/8" plate to replace them in my '62.


I see the stock bushings as a very poor design offering no lateral support to the shackel assembly and very little vibration damping. With very little wear or looseness in the shackel bolts the entire assembly will "Z" allowing the axle to shift under the car. The stock bushing only contacts the shackel with the end of a .060" wall tube that is easilly deformed. The bushings I made use a .090" wall steel tube as well as a 1.5" diameter Delrin thrust bushing that won't allow any lateral movement. They totally stopped the wallowing of the rear end, it tracks like it's on rails now.

stock assembly is on the right.

[chet445]

Bensherb, I did not realize the rear end would move laterally using the standard bushings. I already have purchased standards however what is cost of your setup. Thanks, Chet

[sals54]

I made these from "Delrin" and 3/8" plate to replace them in my '62.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]75747[/ATTACH]

I see the stock bushings as a very poor design offering no lateral support to the shackel assembly and very little vibration damping. With very little wear or looseness in the shackel bolts the entire assembly will "Z" allowing the axle to shift under the car. The stock bushing only contacts the shackel with the end of a .060" wall tube that is easilly deformed. The bushings I made use a .090" wall steel tube as well as a 1.5" diameter Delrin thrust bushing that won't allow any lateral movement. They totally stopped the wallowing of the rear end, it tracks like it's on rails now.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]75750[/ATTACH]stock assembly is on the right.

That looks like a great setup. I also use washers to "make up" the gap between the bushing and the flange, up font. And used larger shackles, like yours in the rear. It makes a HUGE difference.

[Xcalibur]

I made my own from delrin many years ago. Made them greasible and they worked great.

[bensherb]

Bensherb, I did not realize the rear end would move laterally using the standard bushings. I already have purchased standards however what is cost of your setup. Thanks, Chet

I don't produce it for sale Chet, but I believe similar bushings are available. I just wanted to show how I addressed the poor stock design.

The stock bushing only offers 5/32" (0.156") of rubber for vibration damping and it's really hard rubber so there's not much to curb vibration there. My Delrin bushings are harder than rubber but I notice no difference and they work great. Sal's urethane bushings likely offer more vibration damping than either Delrin or stock, but the main thing is to eliminate the possibility of lateral movement in the shackel. As Sal did, a thick washer filling the space between the shackel plates and the spring/frame should do it. Delrin, urethane or even alluminum would better for a washer than steel as it won't squeak. Thicker shackel plates with holes that fit the bolts tightly help a lot too. Another approach would be to weld bars between the two shackel plates making an "H" of them, but there just isn't sufficient room without replacing the shacels with very long ones and raising the rear of the car. (my shackels are a bit longer than stock)

[Studebakercenteroforegon]

Bensherb, I did not realize the rear end would move laterally using the standard bushings. I already have purchased standards however what is cost of your setup. Thanks, Chet

No need to overthink rear spring bushings. The standard replacement bushings will serve you well.

[PackardV8]

No need to overthink rear spring bushings. The standard replacement bushings will serve you well.

And by the time you’re done with the project you’ll wish you’d never noticed there was a problem. Getting the old bushings out of the frame can be one of the worst chores on a Stude

Jack Vines

[Harryhawk]

I agree with Jack, getting the bushings out of the frame was a real chore and I had the body off. Let us know how you did it and what you thought. Cheers