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  • Engine: Smoke !

    Hi All-
    I have been working on my 62 Hawk for some time now- It has been parked down my driveway slightly nose down for months whilst I have replaced sump, mainseals, and myriad other tasks including fitting a Full flow Oil Filter Stand 1555771 (it's never had one in it's life ).

    It has not smoked excessively prior, but today clouds of smoke ensued and they are not lessening. I did not oil the cylinders prior to startup although made sure I had cranked the engine for a long time without sparkplugs, and could tell pressure was registered.
    What happened, what have I done wrong ?!
    Before I go any further, is it likely just the nose down attitude that is causing oil to pool in the heads and get down into the valves or is there something more sinister at hand.
    Picture attached
    SteveClick image for larger version

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  • #2
    How long is "some time"?
    How steep is "slightly"?
    Are you sure it is smoke and not steam?
    It MAY be what you guessed. Take a rocker arm cover off and see what is happening. How are the valve stem seals? Level the car off and run it for ten to 15 minutes and see if it clears up.
    Gary L.
    Wappinger, NY

    SDC member since 1968
    Studebaker enthusiast much longer

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    • #3
      I just want to say I like the Port Hole, did You do this or have it done or buy the Hawk this way ?
      Joseph R. Zeiger

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      • #4
        Laid up and not started for at least three months.
        Definitely smoke, not steam- out of both tailpipes.
        To be frank- I didn't check to see if stem seals were fitted so I don't know.
        Engine is of the 'full flow' type which was meant to have a spin on filter on the block. It never had one- has a block of plate from the factory. I have fitted part no.1555771 and a filter (see pic)
        The engine would be at about a on or two degree angle canted forward. I have just had the Rocker Covers off for a repaint and I saw the oil pool toward the front of the head. It is also not full of oil yet- it is filled to the lower mark on the dipstick ( needs another quart).
        Joe, the car has had the 'Continental' window for many years prior to my purchasing it. This feature has made it recognisable to a few long standing Studebaker Car Club of Australia members, who reported seeing it at meetings in Sydney back in the mid eighties.
        Steve
        Click image for larger version

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        • #5
          Canted slightly forward could cause oil to accumulate in the drain back trough and may raise the oil level high enough to enter the valve stem areas. During normal operations there would be no accumulation, however sitting for a long time oil could accumulate to a high enough level to interfere with a valve(s). As earlier suggested run it on the level for a while and I am sure it will clear up.

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          • #6
            Thanks Altair, I'm really hoping that's the shot. I'd assumed there was a drain hole at the front of the head as well as the back but I guess that's not true.
            I will not be running the car for a week because I'm having a couple of new cables made for the accelerator and the car doesn't have one for now.
            I will report back after I get the smoky hunk of junk back on level ground
            Steve
            Steve

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            • #7
              Hi Steve, those opera windows look like they came from a Lincoln MK IV. Are those wheels 14", they appear to be GT wheels from a '67-'68 Ford.

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              • #8
                Since the heads are interchangeable...one side to the other...there are oil return holes on each end...

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by 345 DeSoto View Post
                  Since the heads are interchangeable...one side to the other...there are oil return holes on each end...
                  The block is only drilled at the rear for drain.

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                  • #10
                    I thought the drain holes were in the alignment pins. They need to be hollow for them to work. If someone replaced them with solid dowels you could have a problem... Been a while since I pulled a head but that was my understanding.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by StudeNorm View Post
                      I thought the drain holes were in the alignment pins. They need to be hollow for them to work. If someone replaced them with solid dowels you could have a problem... Been a while since I pulled a head but that was my understanding.
                      I doubt this car's engine is original from factory- probably been rebuilt once. God only knows what's under there...
                      Hoping I don't have to do a rebuild just yet !!
                      Steve

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                      • #12
                        The oil only drains back through the rear holes. The front holes go nowhere and can fill up to a level to interfere with the font most valve if the engine is canted forward for an extended period of time.Click image for larger version

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                        • #13
                          Does the car have a brake hydrovac unit??? When they fail the unit sucks all the brake fluid out and runs it through the engine. Talk about smoke....don't ask me how I know. Check your brake pedal and if goes to the floor thats your problem.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by E. Davis View Post
                            Does the car have a brake hydrovac unit??? When they fail the unit sucks all the brake fluid out and runs it through the engine. Talk about smoke....don't ask me how I know. Check your brake pedal and if goes to the floor thats your problem.
                            I rebuilt the Power Brake servo completely about six months back so it ought not be the culprit, but thanks for the Heads-up on that score- I will check.
                            The car has an Australian built Paton's Brake Booster VH-44. These and the larger VH-40 were the most often fitted to Australian Studebakers and are a very long lasting unit. I see a few Hydrovacs out there, but are comparatively rare here.
                            I won't be running the GT until later in the week because I have taken off the throttle cable to have a new inner made and have a clevis and screw adjuster added (it was tied onto the bellcrank ) , and to have another inner for my '61 Hawk made up.
                            After this gets fitted I will get the car out on flat ground, smoke out the neighbouhood and see if it stops
                            Steve

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                            • #15
                              On RHC Hawks with full-flow motosr the steering box pitman arm will interfere with the standard size spin-on oil filter. This is why the black-off plate was used on local cars, but you can fit a full-flow filter assembly by having the mounting surface of the base machined slightly to tilt the filter towards the sump. You will also need to use a smaller X96 or Z160 filter.

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