Engine: Got my 1963 259 block and heads back from the machine shop

[Milaca]

I had the engine block & heads cleaned out (I'm sure there is a more technical term for it), cylinders bored & honed .030" (bored into an oil passage in one cylinder, so it was bored even larger to install a sleeve, then bored the sleeve to match other cylinders), decks machined flat/smooth (the machinist estimated that he removed about .007"), cam bearings removed and replaced with new, freeze plugs and pipe plugs installed, heads machined flat/smooth, new valve seats installed and machined to proper height with a 3-angle face, and new valve guides installed for a grand total of $1207.68

It cost more than I had anticipated, but I imagine that the price is typical of such a service.

I'm just beginning to reassemble and noticed something that concerns me. Apparently the cleaning process (acid bath, or whatever the process is) left the lifter bores rough....it feels similar to a sandblasted texture or the texture of the plastic that my keyboard is made of. At first I thought it might be overspray from the machinist spraying cast-iron gray paint on much of the block, but lacquer thinner did not remove it. So, I am certain that the cast iron bores themselves have slight pitting from the cleaning process. Is this typical of this process? Does this sound like anything to be concerned about?

Back to the garage now, gotta get something done before bedtime. Good night!

[TWChamp]

I would run a wire bottle brush through them and see how they look.
Then slip a lifter into one and check it for any excess side clearance.
In the 80's I hot tanked a lot of blocks and never had a problem.
Was your block shot peened for cleaning, or was it hot tanked?

[lumpy]

I've never built a studebaker engine but have built lots of big 3 stuff, I have never hit an oil passage with a .030 over bore. Kinda scary… I have definatly experienced lifter bore issues with the shot peen burn cleaning process. It tends to peen over the edges of the lifter bores . I use a hook style deburring tool around the edges and a brake cylinder hone with atf on the bores , just a couple of passes not enough to remove a bunch of material. Hope this helps Lumpy

[jackb]

the lifter bores should wipe clean with a mild solvent.....remember: there are no .001 oversize lifters around.....How thick is .001 ?

[lumpy]

I agree jackb but sometimes I have found even after deburring the lifter can be somewhat tight in the bore after the shot burn method, and a lifter that won't rotate in the bore will lead to a flat cam post haste. Did I mention Im not a fan of the shot burn method? Seems no one has hot tanks around here….

[4jc8z]

Sounds like your block got the oven and shot blast clean....

[PackardV8]

Good advice thus far. Oil a lifter and slide it into the bore. Does it move up-down and rotate freely? If not the shop owes you a burnishing. They should have a tool which looks like a lifter with spiral grooves, mounted on a stick. After shot blasting, the bores should be burnished with this tool to make sure the raised grain and sharp edges are removed. If the lifters move freely, you're good with to go.

jack vines

[Milaca]

Thank you all for the information. I have not inserted a lifter yet, but I felt no sharp edges on either side of the bores. I will get back to it tonight.

[Milaca]

You guys certainly know what you are talking about, both ends of each and every lifter bore have just enough lip that I am unable to slide a lifter into, from either side!
Using the cutting edge of a flute of a .875" drill bit (smaller than the lifter I measured which is about .904" dia.) and rotating the bit by hand, I am able to remove/ deburr the lip from each end of the bores and am then able to slide a lifter into and though each lifter bore. Very time consuming, what a hassle!