Has anyone out there installed an electric fuel pump to correct long cranking times.

[RadioRoy]

My other Champ is a 289 with AFB carb. I used to remove air cleaner and pour some gas into carb.

No need to remove the air cleaner. Just loosen the wing nut on the top and pour some fuel into the depression on the top of the air cleaner. The fuel will run down the bolt and into the carb throat. Tighten the nut and start the engine.

[TWChamp]

All good advice above, and I installed a 12 volt Holley electric pump on my 1950 Champion after the modern crap gas destroyed the fuel pump diaphram. On my 1950 Land Cruiser I rebuilt the fuel pump with the kit that stands up to crap gas, and so far it works great as long as the car doesn't set more than 2 or 3 weeks. For longer periods I would prime the intake, and what Roy just suggested is excellent. I was thinking of filling a pump style oil can with gas, then remove the rubber vacuum hose for the wipers, and squirt a shot of gas directly into the intake manifold.

[GTHawk]

I am thinking about installing an electric fuel pump to help correct my long cranking time after the car has set for a few days. I am aware that this is a typical problem on older cars due to the evaporation of todays fuel and the fact that they have open vented fuel systems. I have a 63 Lark Daytona, 289 4 barrel. If you have done this I would like to know what electric fuel pump you used and how did it work out. Thank you and have a nice day. Bob.

Absolutely remove the mechanical pump!!! The plates to cover hole after removing are pretty much universal and inexpensive plus available at part stores. Good Luck.

[Mrs K Corbin]

I have heard that startling fluid is a good source of blown head gaskets because it is so explosive. If I have to resort to something like that, I use WD-40. There is always a can of that around.

BTW, I put electric fuel pumps on all my 12 volt cars. They help relieve vapor lock in the hot California climate, particularly at altitude. They are mounted like Bensherb's pictures.

+1 on this, I blew a head gasket on an old champion engine.

[Buzzard]

Good points all. Another feature I always use is a hidden mini toggle switch (In the console ashtray in my GT Hawk) which also works as a theft deterrent as the whole fuel system is deactivated. Additionally, it makes running the carbs (2- 4 bbls in my case) bone dry prior to extended storage without doing any draining or other preparation whatever. Mine has been in place since 1968 and is wonderful: Conelec - theCoralsnake.com

https://www.thecoralsnake.com/Conelec

Luck to all.

Bill

[Jeffry Cassel]

lot of low wing aircraft have an electric fuel pump in addition to the mechanical pump on the engine. When you reach an altitude where you could glide back to the airport you switch it off. I have done the same thing with several cars. I like the Bosch mechanical pump. You don't want a cheap vane type as they will not self prime. I wire to acc. with a fuse and a toggle switch. Turn it on , wait a few seconds and start the car. They are a real starter-saver! When started I switch it off. When your mechanical pump fails just flip the switch and continue on your way. Back-ups are nice - at 7000ft a back up fuel pump could be life saving. In a car it is $ and time saving.

[GrumpyOne]

When installing an electric pump, be sure to install a fuel filter so that only filtered gas can enter the pump. Foreign debris accounts for many fuel pump failures including the mechanical variety...

[t walgamuth]

I agree to avoid ether. The electric pump to prime is an excellent idea. I have done a handful of them.