Before you start to remove the 6 large screws, there is a limiting strap that has to have the head of the rivet closest to the door frame ground off and driven out. If not removed first you will have a door that is flopping around, heavy and hard to control.
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Removing a door from a '53 Commander
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This solution may help some folks trying to back those rusty screws out, I'd heat the heck out of them before trying this as well as putting what ever your favorite lube is (my father in law gave me a product call Frees All that I like). The Jalopy Journal has lots of ideas that seem to work
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I removed the rusted screws from my speedster by drilling through the screw. It was easy to center the drill in the philips head. I to not remember the size of the last bit I used but it was big enough to allow me to use a hacksaw blade. I ground about 1" of the end down until it would fit in the hole. I then used it to cut the through screw into the threads a bit. They came out easily after that
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Last edited by rkapteyn; 09-23-2017, 06:35 AM.
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Originally posted by Alan View PostRead the link in #3 post about the Posi screws. Both of the impact kits I have from both Sears and Chinese Freight, the largest Phillips is a #3PH. That will chew up the head on the door screw. You need a #4PH. The #3 is on a 5/16" shank and the #4 is on a 3/8" shank and the only way I have found to get a #4 is in a socket set.'53 Commander
Art Morrison chassis
LS6 ASA/4L60E
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