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  • Body / Glass: Body to Frame isolator material

    I am replacing the old rubber (looks like conveyer belt material) isolators/mounts on a 56 Skyhawk. Does anybody have any suggestions/experience with the newer polyurethane mounts vs the old ones?

    Thanks

  • #2
    Well since they really don't "isolate" but are really more "squeak" eliminators. They are, actually, what they look like, pieces of cut up cloth reinforced rubber. You can get new ones from SI, but using something to isolate the body would be counterproductive, you want to tie it together, or else you'll wind up with doors not working, rattling parts, deck lids and hoods not opening and closing. Old-old school engineering--no unibody and frame construction here. Welcome to the forum !

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    • #3
      Isolater material

      The material was actually "belting". There are plenty of similar materials available today, such as the material used as a bed liner for trucks. Similar thickness and waterproof are probably the most important specifications.

      Originally posted by karterfred88 View Post
      Well since they really don't "isolate" but are really more "squeak" eliminators. They are, actually, what they look like, pieces of cut up cloth reinforced rubber. You can get new ones from SI, but using something to isolate the body would be counterproductive, you want to tie it together, or else you'll wind up with doors not working, rattling parts, deck lids and hoods not opening and closing. Old-old school engineering--no unibody and frame construction here. Welcome to the forum !
      http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50001003a

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Tensor View Post
        I am replacing the old rubber (looks like conveyer belt material) isolators/mounts on a 56 Skyhawk. Thanks
        FWIW; Studebaker called them: Body Bolt Hold-down Shims.

        Thichness of the various part number shims used were from 1/8" up to and including 1/2". Tire carcass were used as the material. Studebaker engineering required shims be a minimum of 20% tire cord or fabric.

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        • #5
          Next time you see a tire mud flap along side the highway, pick it up. Take the chrome "mud flap girl" off before you get home. Cut the remainder into squares.
          KURTRUK
          (read it backwards)




          Nothing is politically right which is morally wrong. -A. Lincoln

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          • #6
            This is probably one case where I'd stay with the old technology. I use old conveyor belts but tires were used originally as reported above. While you can find various thicknesses, I just use the thickness of the conveyor belt and make up the difference with steel shims of various thicknesses.

            That's what was on my 54K when I took the body off, just one size rubber with steel shims to make up the difference.

            Bob

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            • #7
              Originally posted by kurtruk View Post
              Next time you see a tire mud flap along side the highway, pick it up. Take the chrome "mud flap girl" off before you get home. Cut the remainder into squares.
              That's exactly what I did about 10 years ago when I saw a semi mud flap on the side of the road.
              It has nice fabric reinforced rubber, which is perfect for mounting pads.

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              • #8
                For those who want to replace these little seen parts ...and do it 100% right …Studebaker’s supplier of these body shims is still in business. They no longer cut these from old tire carcass, but now molding & manufacture many types of rubber products. http://www.royalrubber.com/

                Royal Rubber is still located across the street from the former Studebaker Aviation Plant, now called the "Studebaker Business Center" which houses multiple tenants including Studebaker International's South Bend warehouse.

                If you would like to receive a photo copy of Studebaker engineering’s drawing for this (part number 311446) simply send me an email at the address below and put the word "SHIM" in your subject line.

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