Engine: oil smoke on Lt.bank gt hawk 289

[swvalcon]

Tried to see if I could find a reason for the smoke on the Lt side of my hawk motor today before pulling it to put into the new frame. Little run down, Car sat for about 10 years before I got it and had been run very little. I drove it for maybe 200 miles before starting restoration. Never did quit smoking in those 200 miles or get much better and I did run some sea foam though it. Seems to only smoke on the lt side. Runs like a Swiss watch no noise, no knocks and quiet as can be, good power. I really didn't want to pull it apart to rering it as it runs so nice. Does need some new gaskets as it leaks a lot of oil. I made sure it couldn't be pulling oil from any hoses running to the intake. Will run all day at 180 with 40 lbs oil pressure, no blow by out the breather on valve covers to speak of even warm. Did a leak down test on it and all are 10% or just above. Rt side compression all at 125. Lt side all at 135 but # 5 at 120. Think I've got stuck oil rings and should I just go a head and do a ring job seeing as how it's out on the engine stand and will have most of it apart to do a gasket set anyhow? Plugs don't look real bad may be a little black but not what I thought for the amount of smoke coming out of it.

[karterfred88]

Pop the valve springs and replace the valve stem seals. As a test take a screw driver blade to one and lift the edge, crumbles, seals will cure 90% of your smoke. Still flexible, maybe only guides needed. As it runs well and compression pretty close, I'd do the seals, take it out for a hard run with some sea-foam pouring to blow the carbon, recheck the plugs. I did it on a 74 Pinto years ago, went from a 350 miles per quart mosquito fogger , to 1200 miles per quart clean machine, and ran another 50K miles without a whimper. Worst case it doesn't work--valve stem seals are cheap and easy to install in the car, just get or make the right tool per the shop manual to hold the valve in place, and remove the spring and keepers with a small engine spring compressor. Use a high strength magnet for the keepers, don't drop them.

[StudeRich]

After replacing the Valve Stem Seals, if you run some Marvel Mystery Oil through the Carb. at 1/4 to 1/2 Throttle (it WILL smoke!) then flood it out at idle with the MMO turn off Ign. and let it sit several Hours or overnight, you may be able to loosen up the Rings before having to tear it down to replace them and most likely that will go like this:

Well lets see; Rod Bearings are due soon, also Mains, and it sure could use a New Rear Main Seal, all New Gaskets and Oh yeah the water Jackets should be flushed to get all the sand and casting wire out, and of course the Core plugs need renewing, etc.
That is not always the case depending on Mileage, but you know what I mean. If that is what you want fine, but if not try EVERYTHING else first.

[doofus]

Well said Stude Rich. around here thats called the Domino Effect!!! Luck Doofus

[345 DeSoto]

Check the oil drain-back holes on the left head. They could be plugged...

[karterfred88]

Check the oil drain-back holes on the left head. They could be plugged...

Didn't think of that-may be all that's wrong!!! Good catch !!

[alpayed]

What color is the smoke? White= brake fluid, common to see as the vacuum line is on LH side. black= fuel, ,blue= engine oil. let the car idle for a few minutes and then rev it, smoke = valve guides. If generally smokes all the time it's probably a ring issue.

Allan

[swvalcon]

Alpayed It a blue oil smoke and as I said mostly from the left side. A steady stream and when you gun it a cloud. If it was a small block chev being it's out I would just do a rebuild on it maybe cost me $300 but engine parts on a Stude engine are out of this world. Only way I found to get a good price on engine rings is buy four sets on ebay for a 194 chev use eight clys. on the stude and sell the other three sets to someone. Same with the bearings most want $120-140 for the Studes and I can get chevs at $20-30.

[doofus]

The 194 Chev. ring trick is a good one, but what ever you do dont use Hastings rings! they have high tension on comp rings and will wear a block slap out! The grants are OK except the oil ring, its easily over lapped at the butt joint and isnt marked as well as some other brand's. Good Luck in any event, Doofus

[JoeHall]

I woulda started with the mechanicals, then moved to the body and cosmetics. If the front fenders are still off, its still a good time to R&R the motor. Under no circumstances would I reinstall the front fenders if the motor is not running right. Smoke is a red flag, and should be properly diagnosed. Instead of treating the symptoms, the cause(s) should be treated.

More than once at SDC meets, I have seen immaculately restored Studes puffing smoke, as they putter around. With your talent at paint & body work, I am sure your GT is gonna be beautiful. But I prefer a so-so looking Stude with excellent mechanicals. Ideally, both beauty and function are present in the same car. But I guess it depends on the intended purpose of the car.

[swvalcon]

Joe I agree with you there. Nothing I hate more than some guy that has me do a paint job then pulls the motor and comes back wanting me to fix all his mess ups. The frame is not back under the car yet so that's why I'am trying to decide what to do with the motor. Pulling it out of the old frame right now and it will be easy to get to before it goes back in the frame. Plan to have a complete frame before I set body back on it. Motor, Exhaust, Suspension, Brakes& lines, Gas tank and gas lines,tires and wheels. new shocks and rebuilt springs ,new in front. I more than likely will just go though it because I dont want the car all done and have a smoker. I ran my dads engine rebuild shop in the late 80 and 90's and know what the cost of engine parts use to be. I know they have went way up lately. Use to by Grant cast rings for any motor I wanted on our monthly shipment from Grant for $14 a set.

[JWL4541]

Good advice from the above replies. Looking at the spark plugs photos I notice that three of the plugs look different than the rest. They look like they are not burning as efficiently as the other five which have the desired tan color. Also, the gaps look to be too big. I would screw in a new set of Champion H-14Ys, or equivalents, with a .035" gap.

(o[]o)

[swvalcon]

Jwl I checked the plugs and they are Champion RH-18y and they are close to .035 gap.