Engine: Avanti R1 rebuild

[scottsewall]

Something broke within my Avanti R1 engine and I'm looking at a possible rebuild. A mechanic has done some initial triage and believes the problem is in the lower part of the engine, but hasn't removed the pan or pulled the head. I have compression on all cylinders, so I'm hoping the damage isn't too bad. The mechanic is recommending purchasing a rebuild kit and doing a complete rebuild.

I'm looking for advice on how best to proceed and good source for parts. I live in San Jose, CA, and would appreciate any recommendation for local resources that are familiar with this engine.

Is it normal to purchase a complete rebuild kit or just the components in need of repair or replacement?

If the engine is removed from the car, is there maintenance that should be done at that time?

-- Scott

[dynolou2]

If you have an automatic trans,a cracked or broken flex plate can sound like a bottom end problem, something to consider checking into first. Also if the mechanic is not familiar with Studebaker solid lifters, make some noise. Studebakers West in Redwood City may be your closest parts supplier. Phone # 650 366 8787 Lou Cote

[Mrs K Corbin]

If you've got decent compression and decent oil pressure, I'd be doing a lot more diagnoses before condemning it... Seriously.

[Mike Sal]

Not trying to bad mouth your mechanic, but you should really find a "Studebaker person" in your area to take a look at it. From your brief description, it sounds like the guy is not familiar with Studebaker engines and is 2nd guessing. No sense in spending your money on his education.
Mike Sal

[GrumpyOne]

All good advice here... You didn't mention automatic or manual transmission and if automatic, could be the flex plate even though failures are rare. Could also be a mechanical issue if a manual transmission and removal of a manual transmission is a fairly simple straight forward task.

I suggest that you report back here with compression test results and I'm sure a good deal of good suggestions will result..

[scottsewall]

Thank you all for the replies.

My Avanti is an automatic.

I've owned this car for eight years and am familiar with "normal" sound for the engine. The noise it's making is outside of "normal" and more than solid lifters. It's more pronounced at higher RPM and can be heard while in park or in drive.

The mechanic isn't familiar with Studebaker, but for the moment he's the best I have. He's most familiar with GM, and likes to work on older cars. He's suspecting it's a bearing gone bad due to driving with low oil.

I agree with the general assessment on this thread about jumping the gun on the rebuild, but in all fairness he was more concerned about making sure a kit was available before diving in. I see that Studebaker International carries rebuild kits, as well as a wide variety of engine parts for the R1.

One goal of reaching out to the community was to educate myself on the steps to triage the issue and points to consider when deciding on a course of action for repairs. Regardless of who ends up doing the work, I'd like to be in a position to make informed decisions and instead of simply accepting the advice of a mechanic because of ignorance.

Once I get the compression results, I'll post them to this thread.

Thanks again for the replies, please keep them coming

[StudeRich]

SDC Members receiving the Great Monthly Publication "Turning Wheels" know, there ARE still a few Studebaker "Garages" that have much knowledge from working on only ONE make, here and there around the Country. With the shorter learning curve on each Car their Cost could even be a Lot less!

You are very fortunate to be reasonably close to one of our Turning Wheels Advertisers!

Studebakers West is in Redwood, City, CA. http://www.studebakerswest.net 650 366 8787

[Mrs K Corbin]

Also look carefully at your oil pressure at while at a HOT Idle... that will give an indication of bearing failure.

[karterfred88]

Yes, "driving with low oil" can be bad. hopefully it's only a con rod bearing-the most susceptible area. That would still involve a disassembly but minimize cost if all else is okay. An often missed "noise" cause can be the fuel pump bolts backing off and letting the cam "slap" the arm, sounds like a bad rod, holding a broom handle down against that part of the timing cover would eliminate that possibility. Also would probably be a source of oil loss from the base gasket. Good luck, hope it's minor.

[scottsewall]

Also look carefully at your oil pressure at while at a HOT Idle... that will give an indication of bearing failure.

I'm assuming I would look for a drop in oil pressure at HOT idle?

[Mrs K Corbin]

A Dangerous drop, they'll all drop oil pressure at hot idle, but a Dangerous drop is what you'd be looking for...

I don't have the specs, but someone here can give you an idea of what you'd be looking for...

what were your oil pressures in the PAST? Cold and Hot? What are they NOW? Compare the two, that's how you'll REALLY know...

[scottsewall]

A quick update on my Avanti. One of the rod bearings failed on the engine and I had it rebuilt. Many thanks to Phil Harris at Fairborn Studebaker for parts and guidance. Installation is scheduled at the end of November by Studebakers West in Redwood City.

While the engine is out, I'd like to service the transmission. Any recommendation for a Studebaker transmission shop in the San Jose (CA) area?

[Studebakercenteroforegon]

I would ask Studebakers West for their recommendation about the transmission. They live and breathe Studebakers and they are very good. I'm surprised you didn't buy your engine parts from them since they are well established Studebaker parts dealers.