Body / Glass: Suspected Rust Under Vinyl Roof

[Lou Van Anne]

If you saw some suspected bubbling under the vinyl top on your GT Hawk what would you do?

1) Overlook it, hoping that it will not be major issue in your lifetime? (I live in a dry climate, she is always garaged, no other discovered rust issues)

2) Rip the vinyl off and check into it further. Is there a chance it could be repaired without replacing the roof panel? Is a roof panel even available?

[karterfred88]

Depends on what pleases you. The rust, if there will grow. A new vinyl top will be needed to repair, peeled off, rust ground off, roof repainted under where the vinyl will go back on. I'm not sure if Studebaker took a short cut with vinyl tops like the big 3, just putting them over primer or less so they rusted. The vinyl is generic-no worries there, your roof panel is repairable, unless you can push your fingers through it. It doesn't need to be perfectly smooth, like for normal repainting, just sealed.

[ivorydan]

Sounds like you'd like to get it fixed/taken care off. Last time I checked, Studebaker International still has them NOS, and in great shape! Think they had both black and white.

[StudeRich]

Quote: "The vinyl is generic-no worries there,"

Fred, if you know where that leather grained look Roof Vinyl can be found I'd love to know, I have NEVER seen Any like the High Quality Vinyl in the pattern that Studebaker used available in any kind of quantity, only those Boxed Rolls of NOS Studebaker repair kits that SASCO USED to have.

In 1964, '65 & '66 the Factory did probably the BEST job of any Car Co. applying those Vinyl Tops, all those that at least part of their years were indoor stored or in Dry areas are just fine even Today, they did an excellent job of evenly spreading the Cement to prevent the Bubbles and heavy Rust that always appeared on all the "Other Makes".

There had to be a time in it's life of really Poor storage/care, humidity to cause this.

[karterfred88]

Well Rich, as you said SASCO (long gone) had, If you want to fix it NOW you'll probably have to locate an acceptable pattern from the thousands available-or leave it rust

[StudeRich]

Well Rich, as you said SASCO (long gone) had, If you want to fix it NOW you'll probably have to locate an acceptable pattern from the thousands available-or leave it rust

Exactly correct, NOT "generic."

[swvalcon]

Pull the vinyl off, Sand to bare metal and remove any rust. Then epoxy prime at which point you can add a thin coat of paint if you want or put the new top right over the epoxy. Either way the new top should last your life time. You will find it time and money well spent.

[studegary]

In your case, it will probably not get much worse in your lifetime. If you can live with the way that it is now,or a little worse, leave it alone.

It partly depends on how many bubbles, over what area and how big the bubbles are. For larger bubbles, you could inject a modern adhesive through a pin hole in the center of the bubbles, press the vinyl down and probably get a better looking top as a result.

Does the steel feel soft under the vinyl?

[jnormanh]

Pull the vinyl off, Sand to bare metal and remove any rust. Then epoxy prime at which point you can add a thin coat of paint if you want or put the new top right over the epoxy. Either way the new top should last your life time. You will find it time and money well spent.

I agree. Unless you and the car are going to part company in the near future, fix it now. Around here, a replacement vinyl top is about $250 installed over a rust free top, more if there's rust, but if no rust through or seriously weak areas, it's not a big job to sand or wire brush the rust, smear on a little Bondo if necessary, prime and install a new roof.

I'm not sure whether StudeRich said that new OEM vinyl roofs are available or not, but if not, any good trim shop will have hundreds of colors and patterns to choose from and you will find something so close only a show judge expert will know the difference.

[57pack]

Maybe that perhaps Will Sander received some of the leftover vinyl rolls from the SASCO stock?
Can't hurt to ask.

[Mikado282]

I have never really understood the fascination with vinyl tops on cars. To me they look ugly and pretentious like a pimp mobile. Of course if it were up to me I would just ignore any car built past 1972 as cars I would consider classic or collectable. Transportation I drive the cheapest cars I can find and all of them over the last 40 years did not include vinyl tops. For fun my cars do not include one with a vinyl top. Have I mentioned how much I hate vinyl tops on cars?

[Warren Webb]

Anyone have Will Sander's phone number? I need to call on a couple of things.

[doofus]

Brother in law's 63 GT has 1/2 vinyl roof. don't think it's stock. vinyl has thin fuzzy backing like table cloth.drilled out rivets holding plastic trim strip rail to roof, vinyl already loose in one spot. pulled out 12 in dia. bondo patch, filled lo area with rust seal, let cure, re glued vinyl and held down with steel bars from press. looks "Good Enough For Who It Belong's To", B.I.L. is king of CASO's. but keeping one more Stude on road good deal. Luck Doofus

[jclary]

I have never really understood the fascination with vinyl tops on cars. To me they look ugly and pretentious like a pimp mobile. Of course if it were up to me I would just ignore any car built past 1972 as cars I would consider classic or collectable. Transportation I drive the cheapest cars I can find and all of them over the last 40 years did not include vinyl tops. For fun my cars do not include one with a vinyl top. Have I mentioned how much I hate vinyl tops on cars?

I have followed this thread with a little curiosity. Reason being, back in the day, I bought a few cars with vinyl coverings. Some complete, and others with partial covering. In all instances, eventually, some vinyl acne pimples appeared. Like almost all my car purchases, I never bought any vehicle because of the vinyl cover, nor did I shy away because of the vinyl. As always, it was the "Deal!" Always, getting the most vehicle for the money you have to spend.

To me, the bottom line for any problem regarding "RUST"...is one word...OXYGEN. While some of you may own a car originally manufactured as a "collector car," I can't think of any built for that purpose. Therefore, few collector cars were originally made with "forever" corrosion protection. Not until I began my personal journey into restoration, and a career in supplying manufacturing companies with tooling and supplies...did I gain the knowledge to understand processes, problems, and solutions to address rust and corrosion.

Simply put, it almost always comes down to OXYGEN. That essential element for life, that is also the single most culpapble catalyst for distruction. Therefore, no matter what method chosen, "Sealing out Oxygen," is essential. When our collector cars were assembled, the goal was to seal, and protect them, for around 24 months. Which, was about the longest period financial instutions woud carry a loan. Later, as credit, guarantees, and reliability, began to lengthen, pressure to keep the vehicles cosmetically presentable until the last payment increased too.

Today, besides thick mastik gooey seam sealers, underbody coatings, and sound deadeners, most manufactures now send their bare welded chassis assemblies through an electro-coating submersion for coorosion control. How many of "yesterday's" cars would still be around if such measures had been utilized?