Engine: Electric Choke Conversion on a WCFB

[345 DeSoto]

What all is involved with replacing the Stock choke system, on my WCFB, with an electric choke? What needs to be removed, with regards to heat tubing, etc? I've got a complete kit with no installation instructions. Thanks, guys...

[64V-K7]

The newer electric chokes (Edelbrock?) are usable but don't have the flexibility of a factory system. The original design used the engine temperature to determine the period that the choke was needed. The electric one starts opening as soon as you turn the key and will open entirely in 2 minutes......whether or not the engine starts.
All you need to install the Edelbrock type is to remove the indexed cap that engages the choke linkage and replace it with the new one, find a switched power source (unused overdrive pigtail) to connect to. The ground can be attached to any fastener on your carb. Be sure to use a gasket to seal the black cap that has the heating coil, as there the original system used manifold vacuum to activate the 'pull-off' linkage. Any leak here can effect engine performance. The heat source tubes on your manifold can be left alone and ignored as they only dipped into the exhaust stream and if still viable, will not allow exhaust to leak.

[SN-60]

The newer electric chokes (Edelbrock?) are usable but don't have the flexibility of a factory system. The original design used the engine temperature to determine the period that the choke was needed. The electric one starts opening as soon as you turn the key and will open entirely in 2 minutes......whether or not the engine starts.
All you need to install the Edelbrock type is to remove the indexed cap that engages the choke linkage and replace it with the new one, find a switched power source (unused overdrive pigtail) to connect to. The ground can be attached to any fastener on your carb. Be sure to use a gasket to seal the black cap that has the heating coil, as there the original system used manifold vacuum to activate the 'pull-off' linkage. Any leak here can effect engine performance. The heat source tubes on your manifold can be left alone and ignored as they only dipped into the exhaust stream and if still viable, will not allow exhaust to leak.

I like this advice!....I agree that the Stude factory choke setup should be restored if at all possible... but on the other hand, I dig the fact that the new Edelbrock electric choke mechanism, designed for the AFB, should be adaptable to the older WCFB carbs, as the choke housings are identical.....and these electric chokes seem to work well!.....Interesting!!

[Bud]

The Edelbrock electric choke element has to have the spring flipped over in order to work on a WCFB as the choke linkage works in reverse of the AFB. I've converted a couple of WCFB's to electric choke and they work really well. Bud

[StudeRich]

Well that's a MAJORLY important Tip, sounds like a few out there may be running Backwards/Opposite of how they should if the instructions are strictly for AFB's and Edelbrocks, so do not include Bud's very experience driven Tip.

[Bud]

Both my 62 Hawk and 63 Avanti have AFB's with an electric choke. There is no way I would go back to the exhaust heated choke as they are not as efficient as an electric choke which is why all of the auto manufacturers through the late 70's until the end of mass produced carbureted engines used an electric choke. I buy the electric choke elements from Allstate Carburetors in New York. If I remember correctly, the price for an AFB electric choke element is around 14 bucks. Bud

[SN-60]

The Edelbrock electric choke element has to have the spring flipped over in order to work on a WCFB as the choke linkage works in reverse of the AFB. I've converted a couple of WCFB's to electric choke and they work really well. Bud

Good information!...Thanks

[GrumpyOne]

The Edelbrock electric choke element has to have the spring flipped over in order to work on a WCFB as the choke linkage works in reverse of the AFB. I've converted a couple of WCFB's to electric choke and they work really well. Bud

Thank you for posting this as that was a question that I had...

[JoeHall]

Since going to EFI, I only have one Stude left with a carb. I kept it manual choke for better hot restarts. The choke coil cools and closes the choke long before the motor has cooled. The result: you are then trying to restart an already flooded, hot motor with the choke closed. That problem does not exist with a manual choke, so hot restarts require much less cranking.

[SN-60]

Since going to EFI, I only have one Stude left with a carb. I kept it manual choke for better hot restarts. The choke coil cools and closes the choke long before the motor has cooled. The result: you are then trying to restart an already flooded, hot motor with the choke closed. That problem does not exist with a manual choke, so hot restarts require much less cranking.

Manual chokes, adjusted correctly, really are foolproof,..but at the same time I've always felt they seem a bit 'out of place' in a Hawk or an Avanti....but just the thing in a pickup truck!