Engine: 289 Flywheel?

[1964hawk]

Are the flywheels on the R1 the same as a non r series flywheel?

[StudeRich]

The stock CAR V8 Flywheels from 1956 to '64 259, 289 and 289 R1/R2 are all capable of handling the largest Borg & Beck Pressure plate used on them, which is 10 1/2 Inches, so yes they are the same.

[1964hawk]

Thanks! I wanted to make sure before I swap engines in my 64 hawk. I pulled the clutch off the R1 I have over the weekend and found that it had gotten down to the rivets and left a pretty good ring in the surface. I will wait to see what the other flywheel off my hawk looks like before I decide what I will do. I am going to put a new disc in when I put it all back together anyway.

[doofus]

Most machine shops and some FLAPS offer surface grinding for flywheel's. save the spare till it's needed. Luck Doofus

[Dan Timberlake]

Rather than insist on 100% "clean up" of the worn surface I would authorize leaving leaving a narrow stripe or 2.

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Looks like the flywheel flange is recessed on the back.

http://imganuncios.mitula.net/studebaker_v8_standard_trans_flywheel_150_auburn_8130018452539221729.jpg

Ask the shop if they have precision ring adapters to fit your flywheel so the newly ground surface will be parallel to the crank flange.
Just plonking the flywheel down, on whichever surface hit the grinder table first, can result in grinding the flywheel wedge shaped, causing unbalance.

If the flywheel came out of a smooth running car, and is ground wedge shaped, the unbalance can range from a new shifter linkage buzz to much worse.

Also Check the depth of the counterbored holes with the bolts that hold the clutch cover/pressure plate on, to be sure the bolts don't bottom out before clamping the clutch cover.
Also the face runout of the fresh flywheel when bolted on the crank to double check for "wedge" effect.

[jclary]

Rather than insist on 100% "clean up" of the worn surface I would authorize leaving leaving a narrow stripe or 2.

==========

Looks like the flywheel flange is recessed on the back.

http://imganuncios.mitula.net/studebaker_v8_standard_trans_flywheel_150_auburn_8130018452539221729.jpg

Ask the shop if they have precision ring adapters to fit your flywheel so the newly ground surface will be parallel to the crank flange.
Just plonking the flywheel down, on whichever surface hit the grinder table first, can result in grinding the flywheel wedge shaped, causing unbalance.

If the flywheel came out of a smooth running car, and is ground wedge shaped, the unbalance can range from a new shifter linkage buzz to much worse.

Also Check the depth of the counterbored holes with the bolts that hold the clutch cover/pressure plate on, to be sure the bolts don't bottom out before clamping the clutch cover.
Also the face runout of the fresh flywheel when bolted on the crank to double check for "wedge" effect.

How 'bout some of you "machinists" giving us a lesson on the basics of flywheel resurfacing. What kind of machinery is used?
Is it a rotary machine, where the flywheel is chucked vertically, or horizontally, on the crankshaft flange? Is it a reciprocating flatbed grinder like the Thompson grinders I've seen in cutting tool manufacturing? Or a Blanchard style grinder? It would seem to me, that the critical parts of the process, for accuracy, has to depend on a well maintained machine, a skilled "set-up machinist," and, at least one dependable precision surface register on the flywheel itself, as a reference point.

How much material is removed? I suspect, not much, unless the flywheel has been severely abused. Then, in that case, it probably should be scrapped. What are the tolerances, and what surface contact percentage is acceptable?

Just as it is critical that the center hole in a bellhousing is the precision "register" point for "dialing-in" the bellhousing...somewhere, on a flywheel, a similar point must exist. In all my years of "tinkering" with engines, I realize that I have never had the need, nor observed, flywheel surfacing. This is a great opportunity for those with the knowledge to enlighten the rest of us.

[JoeHall]

I learned about the wedge effect, the hard way, 20 years ago. Had a machine shop resurface a 56J flywheel. After re-installation, it vibrated so much I knew something was wrong. Had to remove it and take it back. Before taking it back, I checked the run-out, while it was still mounted on the motor, and knew it was out of whack. But the guy at the machine shop told me what a pro he was, and how that was impossible. So I took it to another shop and they fixed it. IIRC, they winked and did not charge me. Lesson learned: Its a good idea to check the run out, once mounted on the motor but BEFORE reassembly, anytime a flywheel is resurfaced.

[karterfred88]

Speaking of flywheels. Does anyone know of a reasonably priced source of new ones? The usable used ones-those not needing heavy machining for use, seem to have dried up. I haven't seen any through the swap sight, nor could I find anyone at York, that would part with them without either an engine attached, or with a trans and bell housing. I know Phil at Fairborn is having aluminum ones made--but too pricey for me. I plan on driving, not racing, but prefer using a really clean used one, or a new one to start with for my 5 speed conversion. Am I just dreaming, or do I really have to pay $500.00 plus for one. Any leads appreciated.

[1964hawk]

Here is the R1 and the flywheel.

[swvalcon]

The one we had at my dads machine shop you mounted the flywheel in the base of machine making sure it was level in all directions. The head turned with the cutter. Then the head of the machine was lowered down to the flywheel until you heard it just start to cut and took it down a .001 at a time until cut was flat. Cutter on that machine had a pill type cutter that looked like a aspirin that was big bucks so you didn't want to break one.

[StudeRich]

Here is the R1 and the flywheel.

Yep, a V8 Flywheel needing Machining all right.

[PackardV8]

The most usual flywheel grinder has a turntable base which resembles a flywheel. It comes with cone adapters of various diameters which center the flywheel and are locked down by a center bolt. The turntable is turned on, the coolant flow is turned on and adjusted, then a diamond cup stone on an arm is turned on and the arm is lowered until the stone contacts the flywheel. The arm is gradually lowered until the clutch disc surface is clean/flat/shiny. Usually takes 15-30 minutes, including washing afterward.

Rather than insist on 100% "clean up" of the worn surface I would authorize leaving leaving a narrow stripe or 2.

Agree, Dan. Only if a flywheel is as severely abused as the one in the photo, the machinist should be able to measure the thickness and determine , it might be necessary to leave a stripe or two. It will then never be as smooth on engagement as a clean surface. It's really rare to find one which won't clean up and those usually come from trucks which have already been surfaced a time or two.

The usable used ones-those not needing heavy machining for use, seem to have dried up. I haven't seen any through the swap sight, nor could I find anyone at York, that would part with them

I'd bet a WTB here will result in more than one offer. Then, you'll choke at the cost of shipping a used flywheel any distance.

As far as heavy machining adding to the cost, that's usually not a big deal; we charge $50 and it's clean and perfectly smooth.

jack vines

[1964hawk]

What would be the best source for a new disc and possibly a pressure plate? I did see a Avanti web site that sold kits but they are labeled heavy duty. I want to keep the stock feel I'm not a big fan of how heavy duty clutches feel.

[PackardV8]

The Stude V8 clutch and pressure plate are dirt common and used in millions of Ford, IH, GM and other cars. Nothing special, nothing rare, nothing difficult to source at the local flaps.

jack vines

[1964hawk]

Thanks I will give the local napa a call and see what they come up with.