Front Axle / Front Suspension: 1956 Studebaker Champion Four Door (Front wheel bearings.)

[John McElfresh]

Took front drivers side wheel off today only to find that the bearings are shot. This being my first time at looking for parts where do I go for inner and outer bearings, cone/roller inner and outer bears, and a few washers. OEM if possible. Thanks

[55 56 PREZ 4D]

https://www.studebakervendors.com/

Would be the first choice.
A local GOOD auto parts store would be the second choice. [N A P A perhaps]
Take your old parts in. Between their listing and/or cross referencing the number on your part, they should be able to find parts

[jclary]

Fortunately, Studebaker used a lot of standard industrial quality bearings in their assemblies. My first move is to take the bearings, clean them and get the numbers and manufacturer off the bearing and the bearing race. They are usually stamped on the side. Whether a Tempken, SKS, Fafnir, or any major brand, they all have cross reference charts. I've found that if the bearing is still available, you can usually buy them from a bearing seller for abut a third of the automotive supply stores.

Before we chased most of our manufacturing "off-shore," we had bearing distributors like Dixie bearing, Motion Industries, and others. I've been out of the business too long to know who is still around. But if you can find a distributor selling bearings, with a "walk-in" counter, you could get a quality product at a great price.

[John McElfresh]

I looked up all the numbers in the Chassis parts book. So I have all the Studebaker numbers. Is that the direction that I should be headed? The roller bearings are blown up so there is no real part. Just basically a pile of bearings.

[jclary]

Yep, I'd say if your bearings are that far gone, the Studebaker numbers with our parts suppliers should be your next great alternative.

[christophe]

Rockauto seem to have them:https://www.rockauto.com/fr/catalog/...l+bearing,1672
Studebaker International has them too:
473256 Outer bearing. 1956-66 car all
models & 1963-83 Avanti. Truck: 4E-6E 1, 2,
3, 5, 6, 7 & 7E-8E 5, 7. ............... $12.50 ea.
473257 Outer cup. 1956-66 car all models &
1963-83 Avanti. Truck: 4E-6E 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, 7 &
7E-8E 5, 7. ..............................$6.50 ea.
473258 Inner bearing. 1956-66 car all
models & 1963-83 Avanti. Truck: 4E-6E 1, 2, 3,
5, 6, 7 & 7E-8E 5, 7. .................. $14.00 ea.
473259 Inner cup. 1956-66 car all models &
1963-83 Avanti. Truck: 4E-6E 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, 7 &
7E-8E 5, 7. ................................ $8.25 ea.

[Dan Timberlake]

Hi JClary,

"Whether a Tempken, SKS, Fafnir, or any major brand...,)
I think they slipped you some counterfeit Timkens and SKFs the last time you were in the bearing store.

http://boredombash.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/Dodgy-Product-Rip-Offs-4.jpg

[jclary]

Hi JClary,

"Whether a Tempken, SKS, Fafnir, or any major brand...,)
I think they slipped you some counterfeit Timkens and SKFs the last time you were in the bearing store.

http://boredombash.com/wp-content/up...Rip-Offs-4.jpg

You could be right. Especially, since it has been over a decade since I've had to go to one. Also, a big thanks to Christpophe, for taking the time to post the Rockauto info. And those prices look very reasonable.

[John McElfresh]

Thanks. That is awesome.

[christophe]

You're welcome.
By the way, if your front bearings were shot, I strongly suggest to check the rear ones too. They usually got less grease jobs than the front ones. It's also a good time to change the seals. Then, you'll be all right for another 60 years.

[Studebakercenteroforegon]

You guys are making this way too hard. 1956 and later cars used a set #2 outer, and a set #6 inner. Depending on the brand the part number might be A2, A6 or S2, S6 etc. Since wheel bearings are now so commonly sold in sets many parts stores may not even stock the race or rollers as separate part numbers. Sets #2 and #6 are extremely common and any parts store in the land will have them in stock.

[TWChamp]

And if the bearing race spun in the hub, then the new bearing may be loose. If it is then use a center punch and make a hundred or so punch marks all around the area where the race rides. Then you can buy a bearing locking repair fluid and drive the race in. Some people are afraid of this repair, but it works. There is a very good bearing and seal store just 5 miles from my house, and Paul knows his business. Give him a call if you have problems. Cutter Sales in Brooklyn Park, MN. 763-425-8696

[John McElfresh]

Thanks. This means a lot to me.

[swvalcon]

I second TWChamps cutter sales Great people, Know their stuff and prices are fair.