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1949 truck cab specs

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  • Body / Glass: 1949 truck cab specs

    Have a 1949 truck cab,really rough shape,no floor,so I'm trying to find the dimensions so I can build a new floor and be structual sound and straight, any help would greatly be appreciated. Pretty much distance from a-pillar across to other a-pillar,does 5ft sound correct?
    Last edited by ralgod79; 08-14-2015, 08:56 AM.

  • #2
    Hi I don't have that info for you but thought you might not know of these guys Classic Enterprises make all kind of body parts for our Studebakers. Good luck with your truck.

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    • #3
      Welcome to the forum.

      Here is a link.



      Also, the Studebaker shop manual and parts manuals have been reprinted. They will probably have the exact dimensions printed in them.
      RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.


      10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
      4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
      5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon

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      • #4
        Welcome to our forum. Before we go too far assuming the worst...how 'bout getting some pictures and posting them for us to see. There are many of us who have repaired, replaced, and worked on these trucks. The usual rust prone areas are the lowest part of the floor that constitutes the inside running boards, driver side floor, lower rear cab curved pieces, and lower door skins. Repair panels are available for all of these areas. If you study the design and construction of these cabs, it is remarkable how tight of a sheet metal capsule they are for their era. Just as with cars, the critical thing is for the "A" pillar (where the door is attached) has enough metal remaining so that it stays attached. If that area has rusted to the point of losing structural dimensional integrity, getting it back in place for "fit & finish" is a bigger challenge. That is why we need pictures to see what you have to work with.

        There are truck cabs "out there" that could be bought as a replacement if yours is too far gone. I have one, but we are not exactly "next door" to make it worth the drive over. If you can, post some pictures ... I'm sure you will have all kinds of suggestions. Some might even be worth reading!
        John Clary
        Greer, SC

        SDC member since 1975

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        • #5
          I've heard tell you can get pretty solid cabs out in the SW for ~ $2K. Shipping is challenging....How well can you do bodywork ? Out here in New England, $2K goes quick in a good shop...

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          • #6
            Thanks for all input,i ended up finding one for sale on craigslist,and went and measured what I needed to.

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            • #7
              You could save yourself a LOT of work and get a better fitting Floor if you just Bought one.

              Our Monthly Club Member Publication: "Turning Wheels" has a monthly Ad from our sheet metal supplier; Classic Enterprizes http://ClassicEnt.com who makes many "C" Cab Parts.
              StudeRich
              Second Generation Stude Driver,
              Proud '54 Starliner Owner
              SDC Member Since 1967

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