Engine: 1960 Lark 6 cylinder to 259 V8 swap

[Mohr HP]

Hi folks, been gathering info about my next project, have some questions. I have a Lark convertible I'd like to rejuvenate, and I'm in the process of getting the 259 V8 from member treblig- it came from his '59 silverhawk. I plan on using a 2004r overdrive, & the engine WAS tied to an automatic. Can I use the Hawk frame mounts up front, and adapt some GM transmission crossmember to support the rear of this package? Or do I need Lark V8 frame mounts? I've read conflicting info that says I can swap my present 6 frame mounts from side to side to fit the V8. Is that not correct? I understand that the Studebaker style bellhousing mounts won't be used. Also, can I use some or all of the throttle linkage? I understand many of the differences between 6 cylinder and V8 cars. Does anyone have experience lowering a V8 lark; I know I need V8 springs, but to me the car would look & handle better lowered about 2 inches. So to get there, how much should I cut the V8 springs? My shopping list is long enough that I'm considering finding a parts car to do this swap. I want power steering, A/C, Turner discs and anti sway bars & I know I'll need a different rear axle. I appreciate the knowledge and willingness to share of all on this board. Thank You,

Steve Mohr

[BILT4ME]

If I were doing it, I would find a 64 Cruiser w/ V8 as a donor car for all the mounts, Dana 44 rear axle (I guarantee you'll need that!) and all the power steering parts. You may even find one with disc brakes!

I just pulled a 44 out of a 64 to install in my 59 Lark VIII 2DHTP. I will be going back to take all the PS components as well, as my car was originally equipped w/ PS, but the parts were all worn out and never worked. Disc brakes may be in its future, but not yet.

FYI, the 44 is longer than the 27 that is in your car, but if you will be doing these mods, you will be remaking your DS anyway.

Also, the V8's had larger brakes on front and rear as well as the change in springs.

Since you want to lower it, buy some new V8 springs, and I'll trade you even across for my worn out, saggy V8 springs that I am sure will lower your car about 2"!!!!!! Maybe consider doing air bags?

[Mike Van Veghten]

Partially correct...
The frame mounts need to be swapped side for side AND redrilled. I just went thru this myself.
Just lay one on top of the other and drill the new mirrored holes, deburr and paint.
Unless you are small in stature, you really dont need power steering. Beside, it's a mess of parts to collect and assemble.
I took the power steering off of my 59, 259 powered Lark years back and don't regret it for a minute. Just keep the steering gear properly greased.

Mike

[Skybolt]

I'm doing this same swap and it is not difficult but collecting all the small parts for the swap is the hardest part. It's easier to have a complete V8 donor car, as I did. The rear of the transmission could possibly be mounted to the 1965/66 crossmember. I have one on my car but you have to remove a couple of frame rivets to be able to bolt it on. I don't know if it will line up with such a late model transmission but I made an adapter mount for the Ford Toploader in mine.

Len

[Mohr HP]

Thanks for the replies, fellas. So the motor mount situation is easy. What do guys use to support 2004r transmissions in larks? Is Lark throttle linkage the same as Hawk?

[Mohr HP]

Anyone else?

[55 56 PREZ 4D]

You will need an adapter kit from one of the vendors...Correct ?
Maybe they will have information on trans mounts.
I know that I have a hard time with searches on this site [maybe you are better at it] but there is an awful lot of information about 2004r swaps.

[Warren Webb]

I've just done a similar swap on my 59 2 door wagon. Being yours is a convertible the rear trans mount would be the same as one would do on the Avanti. The 200R trans swap is a good one but be prepared to spend close to $3,000 for it all before your done. I went with a Stude automatic trans myself. here is a link that outlines the GM trans swap. http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/...ssionswap4.pdf

I am using a front sway bar from a 84 Olds Cutlass. It's a 1" bar that although heavier than the 3/4" Stude bar isn't the thickest that GM had on some models of the same body type. Turner disc's are the way to go especially on this swap.

[Mohr HP]

Thanks for the link, Warren. It looks like a pretty straight forward swap. I'm determined to find a good used unit in the boneyard, to bring the cost down. Our local Pull-A-Part charged me $88.00 for a Ford AOD that I put into my old willys, and I've got nearly 40,000 miles on it.

[jackb]

Wow.....$3K buys a lot of gas ! And a perfectly rebuilt Flight-o-matic ~ $750. With the right R/A........Easy decision for me....

[Mohr HP]

There's a lot more to it than gas mileage. Heat, noise, engine wear and parts availability factor in too. My 289 Ford powered Willys was really transformed with overdrive, and like I said, my local boneyard has 2004r's for $88.00. Also, I plan to drive my Lark a lot, so for me, the mileage thing will add up quicker than it might for others.

[irish]

I agree with most of what has already been posted, with the exception of the rear axle. Your car probably has a Dana 27, they were the standard differentials for Lark 6's and the 259 V-8's. If yours is in good shape it should work fine. Also having a 6 cylinder convertible means you probably have a 3.73 or 4.11 axle ratio and that will work great with the 200-4R overdrive transmission. Best of luck to you.

Joe

[karterfred88]

Wow, this sounds familiar! My friend and I did almost the same thing in 1966! Took out a Lark convertible 6, Put in a 289 Hawk V8 using a swing set as an engine hoist-reinforced with a 4x4! We just reversed the frame mounts, never gave it another thought, bolted the 6 A/T and torque converter to the 289, dropped it in and the friend who owned it drove it away happy, never broke or failed in the 6 years after. Stupid luck I guess, as it appears it should have blown out the trans and rear almost immediately!!

[Stude-Preferred]

Howdy: I did a 60 Lark VI to VIII conversion, keeping it Studebaker.
People talk about the lower gauge steel on 6 cylinders. BUT... Convertibles & Hardtops used the heavier gauge even if it was a 6.

I used Stude V8 motor mount perches (don't know what else to call them) mounting them to the frame. The frame already has the holes drilled for 6 or 8 cyl. Just a matter of using the correct holes for your application.
Rear Axle: 6 cylinders are Dana 27 (same with standard 259 v8). I went with an Avanti style Dana 44, with the traction bar mounts. 3.73 ratio Twin Traction.
Transmission: PowerShift automatic - floor shift. I would like to have OD, but this car was built for performance
Brakes: Turner Discs up front. You can reuse your spindles. Rears were replaced with V8 sized drums.
Springs: Front - Moog CC655 progressive rate coil springs. Real nice application.
Rear: you will probably want to address the leaf springs. Most likely sagging by now. I used a Stude 1963 SW spring (5 leaf) because I wanted the rear up.

One thing to remember (probably not a big deal for you, since you are replacing to a non-Stude transmission & will get a custom made drive-shaft).
Leaf springs - ever notice the wheelbase length changed in 1962 for 2 door Larks? 108.5 to 109. That is because they moved the pin in the rear spring back 1/2 in. for mounting the rear axle.
1960 rear fender shape still works with the 1/2 longer wheelbase.
At any case, the drive shaft will need to be changed, depending on rear springs or rear 27 to 44 axle swap.

Have Fun. Love the stubby proportions of the '59 - 60 Larks



Keeping Studes Alive....
Stude-Preferred

[Skybolt]

Howdy: I did a 60 Lark VI to VIII conversion, keeping it Studebaker.
People talk about the lower gauge steel on 6 cylinders. BUT... Convertibles & Hardtops used the heavier gauge even if it was a 6.

I used Stude V8 motor mount perches (don't know what else to call them) mounting them to the frame. The frame already has the holes drilled for 6 or 8 cyl. Just a matter of using the correct holes for your application.
Rear Axle: 6 cylinders are Dana 27 (same with standard 259 v8). I went with an Avanti style Dana 44, with the traction bar mounts. 3.73 ratio Twin Traction.
Transmission: PowerShift automatic - floor shift. I would like to have OD, but this car was built for performance
Brakes: Turner Discs up front. You can reuse your spindles. Rears were replaced with V8 sized drums.
Springs: Front - Moog CC655 progressive rate coil springs. Real nice application.
Rear: you will probably want to address the leaf springs. Most likely sagging by now. I used a Stude 1963 SW spring (5 leaf) because I wanted the rear up.

One thing to remember (probably not a big deal for you, since you are replacing to a non-Stude transmission & will get a custom made drive-shaft).
Leaf springs - ever notice the wheelbase length changed in 1962 for 2 door Larks? 108.5 to 109. That is because they moved the pin in the rear spring back 1/2 in. for mounting the rear axle.
1960 rear fender shape still works with the 1/2 longer wheelbase.
At any case, the drive shaft will need to be changed, depending on rear springs or rear 27 to 44 axle swap.

Have Fun. Love the stubby proportions of the '59 - 60 Larks

[ATTACH=CONFIG]46856[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]46857[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]46858[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]46859[/ATTACH]

Keeping Studes Alive....
Stude-Preferred

That is one nice Lark.

Mine should be done, well at least back on the road in a few weeks, I will ad stuff as I drive it and maybe in a year or two it will be as done as I want. I have not kept it as close to Studebaker as you have but close enough for me.


Len