Ignition: Set up 283 distributor

[dangrdan]

After a search on this forum, I could not find the answer to my question. Before I get into that, could someone pls tell me how to do a sort on this forum? Best I could do was a search for "283 distributor" (nothing), "distributor setup", "distributor" and then "ignition". I read all the posts after searching for each but had to wade through several hundred unrelated posts and never found anything close. There must be a way to sort but I have been unable to find it. A simple search will just give you every post with your key word in it. Even if there was a way to sort just for the "Prefix" would really help. For example the "ignition" prefix search would have cut the # of post down considerably except it again, looked for the key word, not the Prefix.

Problem: I have a rebuilt 66 Daytona 283. The manual gives two ways to set up the distributor on a disturbed engine, both start by getting to #1 TDC. The first method is the way I have always gotten to TDC - let the compression blow your finger out. However, on this engine, with PS, you can just barely, after a 1/2 hour struggle, get the plug in, just to describe how hard the hole is to get to. To actually get the meat of your finger on the hole enough to seal it is impossible. I have gone from the bottom up, top down, and sideways. Best I could do was get tip in the hole but my finger nail prevents a good seal.

The second method is to crank while watching the intake rocker arm and when the mark comes up while the rocker has just closed, that should be compression and you just set the mark on TDC. Okay, there are of course two rockers and I have torn the manual apart trying to find some indication of which one it is. I had a machine shop redo the heads and put it all together last year, so I do not remember which valve was smaller (I presume that would be the intake). Do any of you know if the intake is the front rocker or is it the back one? I guessed and set the distributor in place and the engine backfires violently so obviously I am 180 out.

I'd take out the plug and try to jam something into the hole, like an eraser that has been carved down to fit but damn, that just seems like a lot of work that might prove futile - just getting one finger in there is tough and the two required to hold something, well......

The rocker arm method would be the easiest to do at this point so I sure hope someone knows which rocker arm is the intake.

[conrad01]

on a chev 283 its the second one in from the front. The intake and exhaust manifold line up to their corresponding rocker arm. If you have a compression tester you can put it into the #1 hole and bump the starter over. When the needle moves up just align the timing marks with the balancer and that will put you at top dead center. When you put in the distributor make the tip of the rotor point to the throttle linkage of the carb. You will have to use a long screwdriver to align the oil pump with the key at the bottom of the distributor so it will sit flush with the intake.

[gordr]

Wedge a piece of 3/8" fuel or emission hose into #1 spark plug hole. Might help if you grind a taper on the end of the hose. Then you put your finger on the other end of the hose. Or else use #6 cylinder. #6 comes to TDC at 0 degrees on the harmonic balancer, too, but fires one full revolution after #1. But you can time it to #6, and it will be right for #1, too. Ignition timing, not valve timing. 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

[dangrdan]

Thanks, Gents! I'll have it running tomorrow.

[TWChamp]

I was going to suggest the same thing Gord just mentioned. I think that would be the easiest way to time it. Just have to remember to point the rotor to #6 instead of #1 when you drop in the distributor.

BTW, the oddest timing I ever had to do was on an older International Harvester pickup truck. They timed off one of the rear cylinders on the V8.

[sweetolbob]

There is no better method than one's finger on the #1 cylinder. If you can get anything into the hole then surely a finger will fit. It can be a difficult process to turn the crank and hold a finger on the cylinder so get a friend/spouse/etc to do the finger trick.

Anything else adds complication to the effort and increases the chance of not getting it correct. And don't be tempted to put a paper plug in the plug hole unless you are pretty good at getting it back out.

Set the oil pump drive slightly before the rotor will point towards #1 as when it engages there is still a few degrees of travel.

Let's not make the whole thing any more difficult than necessary, nothing good comes from complicating this procedure. BTDT.

Bob

[studebakerkid]

If you can not get to cylinder 1 use cylinder six. What I do is use a simple rubber hose shove into the spark plug hole. I turn the engine to TDC and blow though the hose. If I hear air blowing some place then the cylinder with the hose in the spark plug hole is NOT at TDC with the valves closed.

[wittsend]

As stated you can tell which rocker is which by following the runner to the intake or exhaust side. Simply rotate the engine in its correct rotation, watch for the intake valve to start closing - and then bring it to *TDC. Your done.

*What I also do is stop short of TDC at whatever the stated initial advance is. I align the rotor to the #1 wire on the cap and drop it in. I connect the wires with #1 running to a spare, grounded spark plug. I slowly turn the distributor in the advancing direction (start retarded) and watch for the plug to fire. While not exact, it gets you close to the proper advance. Don't forget to reconnect the #1 plug wire. Lastly, a lot of this can be eliminated simply by marking the distributor prior to removal. If you will be cleaning/painting a slight chisel mark will do.

[StudeRich]

The reason you do not find "Dist. Setup" with a Search is most people refer to it as Ignition Timing, or Timing.

[dangrdan]

After 2 days of checking and rechecking, I still don't have a running engine. The best it will do is backfire. Here are the things I am certain of:

1. When the #1 cyl is at TDC (harmonic balancer mark lines up with timing mark after #1 intake valve closes), the rotor is pointing to the front of the left bank, toward #1 cyl.
2. Points are set (initial) and I have a good snappy spark at the plugs
3. The spark plug wires are all on correct, firing order 18436572
4. Carburetor has been cleaned with new parts. All linkage moves freely and fuel is being delivered to the throat
5. The valves were adjusted when the engine was on the stand but I checked #1 and #2 cyl just to make sure - they were set properly
6. I drained the old fuel from the tank, replace the fuel hoses and fuel filter. Filter is in a clear case and it is not accumulating debris/gunk and looks very clean


My great fear at this point is that the crank or cam shaft are somehow off a tooth. Or, and my fingers are crossed, have I somehow missed something topside?

[bezhawk]

You are aware on the Chevy engine, the distributor turns clockwise? (unlike Studebaker)

[sweetolbob]

Exactly what happens if the distributor is installed 180 deg off. Could be something else but check again to be sure of TDC on #1.

[Dick Steinkamp]

1. When the #1 cyl is at TDC (harmonic balancer mark lines up with timing mark after #1 intake valve closes), the rotor is pointing to the front of the left bank, toward #1 cyl.
2. Points are set (initial) and I have a good snappy spark at the plugs
3. The spark plug wires are all on correct, firing order 18436572

It is really immaterial where the rotor is pointing in relation to the engine. The important thing is that it is pointing at the #1 plug cable on the distributor cap when #1 is at TDC and ready to fire.

[TWChamp]

Exactly what happens if the distributor is installed 180 deg off. Could be something else but check again to be sure of TDC on #1.

X2
That's the first thing I'd look at.

[dangrdan]

sweetolbob and TWChamp: Agree, and that is what I checked, twice. If it is 180 out, there is something internal wrong, because the timing marks line up just after #1 intake closes. BTW, the #1 exhaust is also closed at that time.