Engine: Can't get r Hawk to start

[Captain Billy]

Here's the outline:
ohv 6 cylinder
1962 lark motor in a 1959 Hawk
hasn't been started since 1992
one lung carter carb just rebuilt
new fuel pump
new points and condenser, wires

Engine turns over, fuel is getting through the carb, spark at the plugs (although it does look weak)
absolutely no sign of life, it turns over well but will not light.
Towed the car around the yard still no signs of life
Towing the car doesn't even show signs of load but the tranny is engaging.

Need direction on where to go from here, my brain is starting to swell...

Thanks

[studegary]

Hopefully, you first drained out any gasoline that is over three months old and put in fresh gasoline. That should be the first thing.

You have spark and fuel. Now you need compression and ignition at the correct time.

My first guess is that you have one or more valves stuck open. Run a compression test and let us know the results of all cylinders.

[karterfred88]

Pull plugs-all. Turn over engine and make sure each cylinder is pushing some air out the plug hole. Then pull cap, line up rotor to number 1 cylinder wire on cap by eye. Rotate engine while watching rotor to make sure its rotating and note direction it turns. Fiddle with the starter to get it back to where number one is on the cap. Check firing order and that the wires on the cap are going to the right plug in the direction the rotor is turning and in the right order. If you have air pushing out the spark plug holes and the spark is firing at the right cylinder at the right time, spray some starting ether into the carb and each plug hole, replace the plugs. And see if it tries to start. If it does, try again till it runs on its own. If it won't start even by towing around yard then you have spark in the wrong place at the wrong time or no compression at all. If air is coming out the spark plug holes you at least have some compression. It may run lousy this way and will need to fix the timing and check your dwell after but should at least "run". Do you know why it's been parked since 1992??

[rodnutrandy]

If it flooded, might have killed the spark plugs, don't over look them!

[christophe]

The same (same engine but in a 63 GT) happened to me with a brand new set of Autolite plugs. I reverted to the old plugs and everything went fine. You might also check that the coil gets full 12V when you try to start. If it's not the case use temporarily a jumper that you remove when the engine starts. If the car sat for more than 20 years, I wouldn't try to start it without an oil change, a lube for all moving parts and a shot of marvel oil (or equivalent) in the cylinders to free the rings that might have stick.
Don't sweat. You'll sort it out.

[Captain Billy]

Thanks to all,

We have already done most everything suggested, fresh gas in a remote container, new plugs, wires, coil, points and condenser, fuel pump and carb kit...I only cheated with the compression test...I did the finger method and although not scientifically accurate it did give good indication of a reasonable amount and evenness of compression.

Having done all this, and dragging the car around the property for a few circuits, still no go. Then we when to pull the distributor to try another set of points and.....the darn gum thing wouldn't come out. It would release and move out about 1.5" then stop dead...you could wiggle it around but it would not come out. We had removed it a couple of times prior without incident...at this point yesterday I had had enough, packed up the wrenches and headed home, will try again next week.

Again thanks

[doofus]

Ever wonder why the dist shaft was "waisted" like it is? it is to clear crank counterweight, consult shop manual for ideal position for dist removal as youre hitting that center counterweight.Doofus

[christophe]

Thanks to all,



Having done all this, and dragging the car around the property for a few circuits, still no go. Then we when to pull the distributor to try another set of points and.....the darn gum thing wouldn't come out. It would release and move out about 1.5" then stop dead...you could wiggle it around but it would not come out. We had removed it a couple of times prior without incident...at this point yesterday I had had enough, packed up the wrenches and headed home, will try again next week.

Again thanks

[doofus]

remember engine has to be at no1 TDC on compression stroke to stab dist. rotor should point at no1 terminal on cap and points just breaking. checking valve clearance would be a good idea soon as you get it to fire and warm up. Luck Doofus

[Flashback]

May sound like a stupid question, BUT, are you sure the engine is turning over when pulling? Also did you try the jumper mentioned in post #5 ? And, are you sure the carb is not flooding and fouled more than one set of plugs?

[Captain Billy]

I'll set #1 to TDC and continue the adventure....no carb flooding since the rebuild, plugs are staying dry, will start from scratch next week

again thanks all....

[StudeRich]

About 6 times out of 10 when someone has replaced the Points, there are issues with the small delicate Wires in the Dist.

One is the Breaker Plate ground Wire to the Case, the other is the Coil to Points Wire. Shorts, breaks or disconnects will drive you crazy trying to figure out why there is No Spark.

[TWChamp]

Yes to what Rich just said. When I wass 17 I replaced my points wire without thinking how it needed to be fine very flexible wire. After a short few weeks the ordinary wire broke and became a governor. After reaching 40 MPH the points advance would move the wire enough to loose contact, and for a couple days I had a top speed of 40.

[Dick Steinkamp]

About 6 times out of 10 when someone has replaced the Points, there are issues with the small delicate Wires in the Dist.

One is the Breaker Plate ground Wire to the Case, the other is the Coil to Points Wire. Shorts, breaks or disconnects will drive you crazy trying to figure out why there is No Spark.

In Post #1 the OP says he has spark at the plugs.