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Door to body screws, 63 Hawk

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  • Body / Glass: Door to body screws, 63 Hawk

    Hi,
    Defeated by the Parts Manual again.....
    1963 Hawk.
    Looking for the part number for the 4 large screws, 2 for each hinge, that affix the door assembly to the A pillar??

    Thanks. Quentin

  • #2
    I found mine at the local hardware store. Looked just like what there.

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    • #3
      Should be pretty much standard hardware. If you are also replacing the 5/16"-24 flat head screws that hold the hinges to the door and "A" pillar, I would recommend using stainless socket flat head cap screws, at least on the ones that are hidden under the door panel. I have thanked myself several times for having done this many years ago.....

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      • #4
        These are a special screw for a specific purpose on the body. New and correct ones are available from Studebaker vendors.

        Chris.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by stude dude View Post
          These are a special screw for a specific purpose on the body. New and correct ones are available from Studebaker vendors.

          Chris.
          I recently purchased these from SI, part number 2046X7. They are the correct countersunk oval head screws, 1-1/4 " long. Six are needed for each hinge assembly. Three fasten to the A-pillar, three to the door. - Rich

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          • #6
            I recall they are not all the same length; two different lengths, maybe the center one on each end of the hinge is shorter than the other four. Don't have access to the car or other info right now. Dan

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            • #7
              I recall they are not all the same length; two different lengths, maybe the center one on each end of the hinge is shorter than the other four.
              This is true. The one goes on the "nose" of the hinge inside the A pillar is shorter and the head is flat on the top. The 3 visible ones you see when the door is open have a more domed head and are longer. You could use the longer ones inside and they will fit and work, just stick out farther into the wheel well.

              Whatever you do, liberally coat the threads with never-sieze lube when you put them in. These things will freeze up in no time at all and be a bear to get back out even if not rusty. When working on my car, I sometimes had the doors on temporarily for months when the project was stalled for one reason or another and then had to use the impact driver to get them loose again. And this was sitting inside, not out in the weather.

              Jeff in ND

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              • #8
                These are oval head screws not flat head screws. I tried to source these locally when I restored mine. Not very much luck finding these. SI is where I got mine. X2 with the anti-sieze cause I remember removing the original ones was quite difficult. Two of the lower ones I had to drill and then chase out the threads with a tap. Time consuming and lots of extra effort.

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                • #9
                  Because these screws are so bad about seizing, I decided to go with torx head replacements. Also applied a lot of anti-seize. The torx head allows removal using a ratchet with a torx bit. This gives a lot more leverage and is easier to use than a phillips screw driver on a stuck screw.
                  Wayne
                  "Trying to shed my CASO ways"

                  sigpic

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by wdills View Post
                    Because these screws are so bad about seizing, I decided to go with torx head replacements. Also applied a lot of anti-seize. The torx head allows removal using a ratchet with a torx bit. This gives a lot more leverage and is easier to use than a phillips screw driver on a stuck screw.
                    Stude Dude has it right. Actually, they are not Philips, but I believe positorq. They were the torx idea of their day. Buying the positorq driver is a good idea if you stay original.
                    Drove my Avanti tonight for the first time this year with those Australian king pins you shipped me in Canada in 2011 Chris! I hope you are doing well.
                    Neil

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                    • #11
                      I have some extra stainless flat head socket (Allen) cap screws left over from my project if anybody is looking for some. I had to order a larger qty when I bought them. I used them behind the door panels where they can't be seen-unless you take the door pad off, of course.....

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by avantibngrant View Post
                        Stude Dude has it right. Actually, they are not Philips, but I believe positorq. They were the torx idea of their day. Buying the positorq driver is a good idea if you stay original.
                        Drove my Avanti tonight for the first time this year with those Australian king pins you shipped me in Canada in 2011 Chris! I hope you are doing well.
                        Neil
                        Yes... Positorq
                        Probably spelled wrong but none the less NOT Phillips.
                        Phillips drivers were designed to "torque out" to avoid stripped screws.
                        Positorq drivers stay in place.
                        Positorq drivers and screws have different angles than Phillips.
                        South Lompoc Studebaker

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