Engine: GM700R4 in Hawk

[Leroy Cook]

For the clan that want to install a GM700R4 in a Studebaker Hawk the speedometer cable can be had at NAPA. The part numer is 615-1605 (Balkamp) The ends fits. The cable is a bit longer than the original.

[JoeHall]

For the clan that want to install a GM700R4 in a Studebaker Hawk the speedometer cable can be had at NAPA. The part numer is 615-1605 (Balkamp) The ends fits. The cable is a bit longer than the original.

Thanks, but how much is, "a bit longer"? The one the kit vendor sent me was about a foot too long. That caused too many coils & loops, and stripped the nylon gear in the tranny in a few hundred miles. I replaced it with a universal cable, which was easily cut to the correct length. I forget the length it wound up being, but believe it was close to OEM length. If the one you listed is not more than a few inches too long, it should be OK.
Thanks Again

[Leroy Cook]

Six inches! Don't put to much grease in when you install. It has to turn with ease! Mine worked fine. I spayed WD40 in the housing and cleaned out the dirt!

[colt45sa]

What's with the 700R4? The gear spacing sucks. If you are going to look into an older GM/OD automatic, look at the 200R4; much better gear spacing and tough enough to hold up to a turbo Grand National !

[plwindish]

I think the 200R4 got a bad rep from the early 200R4s. Later ones were beefed up and have a much better gearing spread than the 700R4. I had one rebuilt and put in my 76 Avanti 4 years ago and have had no issues with it at all. I got close to 28 mpg with it behind a 400 SBC last fall driving to a Zone meet.

[PackardV8]

What's with the 700R4? The gear spacing sucks. If you are going to look into an older GM/OD automatic, look at the 200R4; much better gear spacing and tough enough to hold up to a turbo Grand National !

Tough enough is only true for a select and rare few examples of the 200-4R, so it depends on whether one is going CASO/Pik'n Pull or buying a pro rebuild.

Most 200-4R trannies one will find today in a wrecking yard came behind base four and six cylinder cars and are too weak to hold up behind a strong Stude V8. The good ones are rare-to-unobtanium in the Pik'n Pull and a built beefed example is expensive.

Yes, agree, the ratio jump between first and second of the 700R4 is wider than a V8 needs, but the availability of a V8-strength tranny is much more widespread, but a installing a wrecking yard tranny is a crapshoot. Some get away with it, some don't. If buying a pro rebuild the cost is pretty much the same for either.

Bottom line:

If buying a rebuilt tranny, go with the 200-4R.

If rolling the dice on a wrecking yard tranny,
200-4R = better ratios and more expensive/more difficult to find.
700R4 = less-than-best ratios but less expensive/easier to find.

jack vines

[JoeHall]

What's with the 700R4? The gear spacing sucks. If you are going to look into an older GM/OD automatic, look at the 200R4; much better gear spacing and tough enough to hold up to a turbo Grand National !

Soo you have a 700R4 in your Studebaker and do not like it? Or, you have a 200R in your Studebaker and do like it? Which year/model Studebaker do you have a 700R4 or 200R in?

I have a 700R4 in my 63GT Hawk, and love it. Would be interested to know which Studebaker you have yours in

[grobb284]

What Jack said is on the money.

[JoeHall]

What Jack said is on the money.

Before I made a choice, 200R or 700R, I did a lot of research, mainly on the internet. In addition to Jack's points, I was also concerned with ease of installation. With the Hawk, the 700R4 only required minor mods to the batwing; the 200R would have required replacing the "between the frame rails" section of the bat wing with a universal cross member; not a big deal, but that helped me make a decision.

Also, reading on the internet, the 200R v. 700R4 debate is now near 30 years' running, and the jury is still out, so I doubt the Studebaker crowd will settle it either.

I am tickled pink with the 700R4 in the GT, and that is all that matters to me

[wittsend]

A couple of other things to add. The 200R4 has a 0.67 final ratio, the 700R4 0.70. Minor, but depending on your final drive ratio (and tire size) every little bit may work against you. These transmissions also have different length. That may be a factor regarding the driveshaft. If you are willing to invest in the pro rebuild Mr. Vine's recommends then my opinion is that the 200R4 is the better transmission. If you are incline more to the economical side of a "general" rebuilt then I'd incline to the 700R4 as it is stronger in stock form.

FWIW, I am of the Pick N' Pull inclination. But, I looked under HUNDREDS of cars before I found a 700R4 that had the appearance of being rebuilt. This took a number of months/yard trips to accomplish. In the end I did get a good 700R4. I also had the advantage of not needing the expensive adapter as I already had a McKinnon engine swap in my '64 Daytona. Thus, I did the whole swap for under $200 total and this included the trans/convertor, driveshaft (found one that fit "As/Is" - a hunt in itself), trans cooler, lines, speedo cable housing/gear, speedo cable, conversion to floor shift (my choice) and even a console. That said, you need to be patient and you need to have the capability to modify (cut, weld, adapt). Lastly my car goes 10 miles at a time and way under 500 miles a year. Thus my expectations for longevity may not be yours. Frankly I think I get more enjoyment out of having done the adaptation myself, for so little, than I do out of the actual benefits of the 700R4 transmission. I just say this if you are hopeful for a more economical route that it has been successful (for me). In the end you need to consider what is best for YOU.