Steering: 62 Lark turns sharper to the left than right, reach rod? steering box?

[Matthew Wendt]

[JoeHall]

The mix-match of parts leaves me scratching my head, but it sounds like you may need a 14 5/8" reach rod, or have the current, 13" one extended to match.

[studeski]

Sounds like you had the pitman arm off. Did you center the box? Does the pitman arm have the same indexing?

Claude

[Warren Webb]

The difference between the 63 & 64 I believe is the 64's went to delete the grease fittings, more of the industry wide "lifetime lubrication" that was being promoted, but I don't think the pitman arm came with the reach rod, so that shouldn't be a factor.

[doofus]

Hello Matthew, you need to read the 59-64 repair manual. it's complicated but start by removing pitman arm and centering steering gear box. check length of exposed slave cylinder shaft total travel or length is 71/2 inches from face of cylinder to end of polished portion of shaft. if this is off its probably had to many alignments and steering wheel centerings. if you dont have the manual pm me and i'll copy the needed portion and mail to you, Good Luck Doofus

[studegary]

I, too, think that the steering box is off center.
It may also be something else due to the mix/match of parts, but check the steering box centering first.

[doofus]

Hello Mathew, once you get this shook out could we get the dimension from pitman arm center at pivot ball to center of reach rod grease zerk. I am adding p/s to my 62 daytona to cancel out the effects of arthritis and old age, it's hard to grab 2nd gear and steer round a corner these days Thanks, Doofus

[Matthew Wendt]

I have read the manual and still don't get it. I understand centering the steering box and centering the bellcrank and then adjusting the reachrod length so that the tapered ball stud shaft slides into the bellcrank. I don't believe the power steering cylinder has any impact on this as it is out without it even connected.

The problem is if I do as above, I run out of threads on the reach rod. My understanding is setting the gearbox up changes how much lash or drag there is on the gearbox, but doesn't change the relationship of the pitman arm shaft keyway to the steering wheel shaft. is this were I am wrong?

The pitman arm shaft keyways are only about every 90 degrees, so I am not off by just a spline.

Thanks,
Matt

[BobPalma]

Matt, I've been following this thread and don't disagree with anything posted so far.

Quite frankly, I hate to say this, but before I went any further, I would consult a local body/frame shop and have the car's frame checked for squareness. You could be chasing a bent frame and not know it.

I hope not, of course, but if you had it checked, you'd know for sure. BP

[doofus]

Out of curiosity Matt before you centered the steering gear did you remove the pittman arm? turn steering wheel lock to lock and carefully count the number of turns. now turn the steering wheel to exactly the half way point. is the index mark on the steering shaft straight up? is this the location of the high spot the manuals speak of? if these 3 reference points dont coincide the steering box has been assembled wrong. also i believe the reach rod needs to be threaded into the actuator 'till just past the clamp to be safe. hope this helps, Doofus

[Matthew Wendt]

[StudeRich]

It surprises me that there is no mention I saw in any post of the TIE RODS!
If those have been adjusted unevenly to get the wheels straight or set the Toe, nothing will be correct.

And what would be the advantage of installing a '64 Cruiser Steering Box in a '62 Convertible?
The '62 was shot? They are both exactly the same, unless they were not both Power Steering equipped.

[altair]

This may be away off base but check that the main steering arm is not striking the bottom of the fuel pump

[StudeRich]

This may be away off base but check that the main steering arm is not striking the bottom of the fuel pump

Speaking of very Old Stock Airtex Fuel Pumps with a bowl and acorn Nut on the bottom, have you been to YOUR Fuel Pump String lately?

[DEEPNHOCK]

As stated above..
Drive the car into your shop so the wheels are straight forward.
Disconnect the reach rod.
Center the steering box (Turn the wheel and count the revolutions...Don't look at wheel position yet...
Then, if you need to, put the wheel back on straight (because it probably was moved at some time).
Adjust the reach rod so it slips back on without moving the steering arm (box) or moving the wheels.

The steering box has a high side to the cam/screw/worm (to make steering easier 'off the top).
If you get it off to one side, the car/truck will steer harder one way and easier the other (wheel turn effort wise)