Engine: Thru bolt motor mounts

[Flashback]

I have seen a lot of broken motor mounts on the vulcanized type mounts. So the SNS gets 32 ford mounts.

[53commander]

I love it, now I'm thinking of doing that while they're still easy to get to. Is this your idea or has this been done before?

[StudeRich]

The '51 and '52 Commanders and Truck Engines were done almost exactly the same way, using the '51 frame and engine Brackets with '51 Mounts or drilling out the '53 and up Brackets for '51 Mounts will do the same thing.

No more loss of torque from Engine movement, and torn Mounts.

[64V-K7]

Better hope the idle is smooth....

[studegary]

I remember using through-bolt mounts on Studebaker V8s in the 1970s. I think that they were an aftermarket item that we used.

[Flashback]

I love it, now I'm thinking of doing that while they're still easy to get to. Is this your idea or has this been done before?

I don't know if anyone has used this exact mount or not. I am sure thru bolts have been used.

64V-K7--- They have a cushion underside too.

Here's what the modified frame bracket looks like. I welded in the slotted hole next to the normal mounting hole, and then cut the hole for the ford:

[Roscomacaw]

As Rich says, Stude USED thru-bolt mounts on '51 & '52 V8 cars. There's actually TWO rubber donuts, a bushing, some washers and a nut involved. I'm sure they're readily available from Stude vendors.

[JoeHall]

I have only ever seen the driver's side separate, and that is because the motor lifts up on that side and rolls to the right, when under torque. I use a safety chain there, anchored to block and frame, with about 1/2" of slack, so as not to affect cushioning of the rubber. That way, if (when) the rubber mount separates, the lift-up will stop when the slack in the chain is taken up. I have had several break, and the safety chain worked every time, and continued to work, till I got round to replacing the mount.

I'd be concerned about vibration with a through bolt.

[sweetolbob]

They will work fine. I used the same mounts on the SBC in my 39 Ford and the SBC in my 54K with a Hurst mount.

I'm not against vulcanized mounts but these were more appropriate for my applications. The rubber quality will vary but it's easy to change if necessary.

Nice work, Bob

[acolds]

When my 61 4 speed Hawk and I were younger having broken a few factory mounts drilled thru added bolt and on top of mount added a used shock absorber rubber and a washer and had a mount that did not break and limited the upward movement was cheaper than OEM mounts

[studeclunker]

Well, that's one solution to the problem. I used early Land Rover Diesel mounts and it solved the issue with Bess. No modifications needed.

[Warren Webb]

I had the left mount break on my Hawk one night. Scared me to death! Got one with a through bolt from Jon Myer that's permanent in my book. The studs on the Studebaker mount are just slightly off center to one another so the through bolt worked great.

I used the safety chain on my friends 62 Cruiser & told him it's a temporary fix but at the rate he's doing things & how he talks about spending money on it with no follow through as a result. At least I know he or whoever drives it wont kill themselves.

[Mike Van Veghten]

Bad thing about the chain vs. a thru bolt -
The stock mount can still break/seperate. That leaves the left side of the engine with no lateral support. Under accleration, braking and turning the engine has one less support. And when was the last time the "rest" of the mounts were closely checked..!?

With the thru bolt, the fastener would have to break to loose any support/control. And that's unlikely as long as at least grade 5 fasteners were used.

Mike

[00RACER]

Just take a regular motor mount, cut off the top and bottom studs, drill out to install a 3/8" bolt with a lock nut on it

[Xcalibur]

I commenced using nothing but bolt-thrus nearly 30 years ago when I installed a new, stock, left-side piece on my R-2 SuperHawk, started, revved it,... and the new mount immediately pulled apart.

There are many sources of bolt-thrus available, BUT not all are equal. If they are good they will last indefinitely. I just removed a set installed for about 2o years and they were in remarkably good shape, especially compared to the stock types I've removed under similar conditions.

HOWEVER, I recently bought the first set I've needed in some time from Speedway Motors. When they arrived they were total crapolla, very soft rubber and no metal retainer of any sort around the rubber "biscuit," at all, to stabilize it.
Be sure to check the biscuit before buying. The good ones are the pair on the left and the Speedway is shown "installed." Please, note the differences, "cupped" bottom-plates and steel bands on the left vs. well... neither.