Recently replaced Ignition Switch with newer style figuring it would be more solid. I was disappointed since it uses a very small key compared to the original which makes it very awkward. Also can't seem to get it secure enough to stop cylinder from shifting. Anyone else have this issue? Will probably go back to the original version.
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Where did you get the "newer style" from? Part number? I recently replaced a ignition switch on a friends car. It was the type that came with a pair of Studebaker keys & it was the exact same as the original, mounting & all.59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
64 Zip Van
66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
66 Cruiser V-8 auto -
When I replaced my ignition switch the key was "too small" for me, so I had a larger one make. Problem solved.Comment
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If it is one from one of our vendors it should not move, is yours a universal type with a nut, or does it use the spring and notched bezel. The ones with the spring have a small pin that locates to a notch on the ignition switch hole in the instrument panel and won't rotate as long as the spring has not been weakened to make it easier to install the bezel. Getting a longer key is no problem, depending on key style simply go to most hardware stores, they will have an assortment of keys for the shank style and have a duplicate made with a longer style. The bezel retaining style are a pain to install, having to push the switch through the spring and dash and align the bezel and twist it till it locks on the notches. While you're at it get an extra bezel as yours will probably be ready to let go as the ears are way too weak on the original and break off easily. Make sure the battery is disconnected before attempting as the back of the switch will hit a ground somewhere and start a meltdown.Originally posted by Jaybot View PostComment
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