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King Pin Bushing / Bearing Tool

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  • Front Axle / Front Suspension: King Pin Bushing / Bearing Tool

    Anyone have any advice on tools to remove and re-install the bushing and bearing in the steering knuckle? The manual just refers to a kent moore tool that I obviously don't have. I need a substitute tool that I can buy or make.

    Thanks
    Wayne
    Wayne
    "Trying to shed my CASO ways"

    sigpic

  • #2
    If you have access to a lathe, you can either turn an old kingpin or round stock as shown in the last two pictures.



    One note, be sure you seat the lower bushing deep enough for the seal or o-ring and don't go to deep. Bob

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    • #3
      Thanks Bob,
      It appears that your bushing tool has a step on the flip side that allows you to seat the bushing. I assume you always seat the bushing to the same depth. Couldn't I just make that step the right thickness to seat the bushing to the correct depth. Or do you have to adjust that depth for each installation based on the thickness of the o-ring / gasket? If it is always the same depth, what is the correct depth?

      The manual shows a removal tool that looks like a thin piece of metal that you drop in on top of the bushing or bearing and then just press them out. How tight are these things in the steering knuckle? Basic question is how thick does that piece of metal need to be (1/8", 1/4")?

      Thanks
      Wayne
      Wayne
      "Trying to shed my CASO ways"

      sigpic

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by wdills View Post
        Thanks Bob,
        It appears that your bushing tool has a step on the flip side that allows you to seat the bushing. I assume you always seat the bushing to the same depth. Couldn't I just make that step the right thickness to seat the bushing to the correct depth. Or do you have to adjust that depth for each installation based on the thickness of the o-ring / gasket? If it is always the same depth, what is the correct depth?

        The manual shows a removal tool that looks like a thin piece of metal that you drop in on top of the bushing or bearing and then just press them out. How tight are these things in the steering knuckle? Basic question is how thick does that piece of metal need to be (1/8", 1/4")?

        Thanks
        Wayne
        Wayne

        IIRC, There is a spec in the manual for the depth of the bushing. It might be 0.015" but check the manual. I believe it's the same for both cork or O-ring but I'm just suggesting that one check what the kit/manual suggests. That is the depth of the short shoulder on the tool.

        Secondly, IIRC part deux, I just rummaged through my sockets, I have a decent collection from lo those many years, until I found one that just dropped in the large opening and pushed out the bearing. Larger size to go the other way. A larger bearing surface than a piece of strap.

        Don't know about all the tools listed, I just built/used what looked like it worked. Bob

        P.S. - The socket needs to be a close fit to catch the exposed edge of the bearing/bushing.
        Last edited by sweetolbob; 07-13-2014, 04:42 PM.

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        • #5
          I rebuilt my front end last summer...did everything myself other than this. Paid a shop with the right equipment to press out the old and press in the new bushings. I think they charged me $60. Well worth it if you ask me.

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          • #6
            I made my own tool for this out of some washers and threaded rod. Clamp the 2 or 3 washers between 2 nuts on one end of a rod long enough to extend through the spindle a decent distance for a press. Put that into a drill press on high speed and using angle grinder carefully grind the diameter of the washers to be a snug fit to the ID of the spindle (OD Of of the bushings/bearings). Then grind a flat on 2 sides. This will allow you to remove the washers from the rod and rotate them to fit down between the bushings/bearings and mimics the tool shown in the shop manual. Reassemble the washers to the rod inside the spindle and using a press you can easily press out the old and press in the new. The seal gap can be checked with the depth end on a calipers. This went slick when I did it.

            Jeff in ND

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