Ignition: Spacer or no spacer

[Scott]

I'm about to replace the aftermarket ignition switch on my 66 Cruiser with an original. I have the switch and I think I have the spring. I do not have the spacer 1544987. This part of all Studebaker parts seems to bring puzzled looks on people's faces. A spacer? I've seen installations without the spacer and it seems the spring has plenty of tension to do its job. I have a few questions: why would Studebaker use a spacer instead of just making the spring longer or stronger? Why would they use one if the tension already seems good enough? Why do a lot of people who know Studebakers well not know about this part? Is it absolutely necessary? Should I look for one? Does anyone have one (there should theoretically be hundreds available in parts cars if nothing else)? Is there an electrical reason for the spacer (insulating)?
For one little known part the questions seem endless. Any responses are welcome.

[edit: I see SI has this part for $4.50, but I suppose the shipping $10 - a bad deal if correct]

[SScopelli]

I believe the space is a plastic ring so the light on the switch is diffused for the pinhole on the bezel..

[Skip Lackie]

I believe the space is a plastic ring so the light on the switch is diffused for the pinhole on the bezel..

Correct. The spacer is not really NEEDED, but the switch will be kinda loose without it.

[Mike Van Veghten]

No...the switch "may" be loose without it.

I replaced the bezel on my Lark a few weeks back and had to nearly fully compress the spring to get everything installed. So...I left the plastic spacer out.
It is "still" plenty tight, no rattles, no squeaks, no movement during the switch actuation.

Blanket statements can get one in trouble sometimes..!

Mike

[JoeHall]

No...the switch "may" be loose without it.

I replaced the bezel on my Lark a few weeks back and had to nearly fully compress the spring to get everything installed. So...I left the plastic spacer out.
It is "still" plenty tight, no rattles, no squeaks, no movement during the switch actuation.
Mike

Mike, my experience has been same as yours. I have left out every spacer ever removed, because it makes the spring put so much pressure on the retainer, which seems needless. Also much harder to reinstall. I have experienced no problems with leaving it out.

[Scott]

My limited experience has shown me that the spacer is a unneeded part, but I do wonder about the lighting comment (the little hole in the bezel). By the way, I've noticed that the new bezel replacements have no hole for the light. What kind of "reproduction" is that? Less than promised. I will use an original, with the letters and hole and everything the way it should be.
Still, if there is a REAL function for the spacer, I feel like I should get one. Obviously, I'm not alone in being confused about this part.

[Mike Van Veghten]

Funny thing...why do the ears on the bezel bend, stretch, warp in the first place....too much spring pressure pulling on those tiny little ears...!

Mike

[stude dude]

There are different part number springs for cars with or without the spacer/light. If you mix and match, the ignition can be loose in the dash OR it can be too tight and over stress the 'ears' of the die cast bezel.

Chris.

[Scott]

There are different part number springs for cars with or without the spacer/light. If you mix and match, the ignition can be loose in the dash OR it can be too tight and over stress the 'ears' of the die cast bezel.

Chris.

WOW!! Unless I have one to compare it to that's known to be correct how will I ever know I have the correct spring!?

[RadioRoy]

Make sure that you disconnect the battery when removing or installing the ignition switch. Fire under the dash is not your friend.