Engine: darned block plugs wont move:(

[Jeff T.]

I've tapped on them, sprayed PB Blaster, Used an adjustable wrench and a vise-grip and walked away rather than round the heck out of the block plugs. My torch is out of commission, otherwise I would have applied heat. Any ideas short of drilling and breaking the little #@$#^ into scrap.

[StudeRich]

If you have not yet rounded them off, just file the Vice Grip marks off and get a 8 Point 3/8" or 1/2" Drive 7/16" Socket, I have always been able to remove the Square Plugs with 8 Points. No wrenches as small as it takes will touch them.

Afterwords, I buy 2 brass 5/8" head, 3/8" Pipe Plugs at the Hardware Store and fix it permanently.

[IMJ]

If you don't have access to an 8-point 7/16" socket, I would recommend a 7/16" pipe plug socket like the one by Sunex:

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_sq_top?ie=UTF8&index=blended&keywords=7%2F16%20sunex%20pipe%20plug%20socket&pf_rd_p=1535523722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B006L23G0W&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0JS58C5Q37S14RS4YM6C

Chances are you might've already slightly rounded the corners off the pipe plug and since an 8 point socket only grabs the corners you might be better off with a square socket that grabs the sides.

I also recommend replacing with brass plugs. The "hex head" style mentioned by StudeRich is a great choice but if you only have the original square style available and you have the proper socket to remove them if needed in the future, you're golden.

regards,
Jay

[JoeHall]

In the early 1990s, a machinist cracked my 289 block trying to get one of those plugs out, during a rebuild. Neither he nor I noticed it till I had reassembled the motor and installed it in the car. Upon initial run in, I noticed coolant trickling down the side of the block. A major bummer. Luckily I had a spare block, but then the machinist wanted to charge me to prep that block for service. I discussed with management and, long story short, the block was prepped for free.

Be careful with that plug !

[rusty nut garage]

this same thing happened to me, I tried heating up the plug and in doing so cracked the block. I know heat can be used successfully for this but go sparingly and let it cool slowly. We managed to save the block using a cold stitch method but it cost me some extra $$.

In the early 1990s, a machinist cracked my 289 block trying to get one of those plugs out, during a rebuild. Neither he nor I noticed it till I had reassembled the motor and installed it in the car. Upon initial run in, I noticed coolant trickling down the side of the block. A major bummer. Luckily I had a spare block, but then the machinist wanted to charge me to prep that block for service. I discussed with management and, long story short, the block was prepped for free.

Be careful with that plug !

[rusty nut garage]

in the future I'll drill them out and retap them. The cast iron is very thin along this area and I don't want to chance cracking another one.

this same thing happened to me, I tried heating up the plug and in doing so cracked the block. I know heat can be used successfully for this but go sparingly and let it cool slowly. We managed to save the block using a cold stitch method but it cost me some extra $$.

[Studebaker1962]

I feel your pain. I have a 1962 GT Hawk I just bought and through advice from the forum decided to flush the block, but not removing the freeze plugs. Right side plug came out with no problem. Left side over the starter would not budge. I did everything you did. I put a breaker bar on it and stopped before the aptly and ironically named device did it's deed.

Only a small amount of sand and one small staple came out of the right side plug. I rigged a garden hose and sequentially flushed top then bottom hose to the right rear and then put the plug in and flushed top and bottom hoses in both directions. T-Stat out of course.

Once running again, used an IR Thermometer at all block and cylinder locations and they are the same temp, so the back cylinders which are known to be affected by casting sand seem OK.

Not sure this helps, but my right side was pretty clean and I made the assumption the left was good.

Try to fix more than you break,
Jim

[Jeff T.]

Thanks for all the advice

I plan on buying an 8 point socket and another can of PB Blaster and taking my sweet time working the plugs out.

Jeff T.

[jonhart]

i have not been into a Studebaker block but when taking them out of a small block Chevy i used a torch got it warm and applied a candle to the spot.. the was melts down into the threads and lubricates them comes out very easy

[53commander]

My all time favorite socket for those plugs is a gator grip. Works every time for me no matter how buggered up the head is. http://www.sears.com/gator-grips-uni...a=00947078000P

[Xcalibur]

I've always had to resort to "ez outs," and they have never failed to do the job.

[Studebaker1962]

If you choose to drill them out per post #6 you will need a good and sharp center punch and a left handed drill bill. With luck the plug will spin out as you drill. If not then use an easy out. I've had sketchy luck with these.

Post #5 speaks of cracking the block. No mention of heat source. A welding torch can produce so much localized heat it can shatter cast iron due to quick differential heating like hot glass from the oven then placed under cold running water. Reverse temperature delta but same concept.

I would only use a welding torch (oxy-acetylene) for exhaust work or head / manifold bolts in thick casting areas. Use a propane torch for this job and be patient to evenly heat.

Last option is to get a drill bit with a diameter less than the central diameter of the plug, line up the drill as true and as straight as possible. You can then maybe use an ice pick or similar to pry out and grab the thread helix and carefully pull it out.

Jim

[garyash]

I was able to MIG weld the end of a 5/16" bolt to the remains of a rounded-off plug. Between the locally-applied welding heat on the plug and having a nice 1/2" hex head to put a socket on, the plug came out. I was desperate, but it worked!

[Jeff T.]

Went out this past Friday and got a gator grip socket from Sears. I got one of the plugs out this evening (Sunday) I have to touch up the other because of rounded corners but at least I am making progress.

Jeff T.

[53commander]

Awesome