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  • Body / Glass: Packard Hawk fin overlay

    Has any members had expertise in "fixing" the gold overlay onto the fins of a PH as the material doesn't come with adhesive bonded to it. What has anybody used to do this job?
    Regards,
    Brian
    Brian Greenall
    Melbourne, OZ
    sigpic

  • #2
    How about waterproof silicone? A piece on eHow "How to Glue Mylar Decals" suggests waterproof silicone if the decal doesn't have glue. Maybe this will work for this application?
    John Clements
    Christchurch, New Zealand

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    • #3
      You might try contacting Roy Heckers. If my memory is correct he used to sell the mylar & would be able to advise on it. His # is 619-420-7896
      59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
      60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
      61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
      62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
      62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
      62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
      63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
      63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
      64 Zip Van
      66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
      66 Cruiser V-8 auto

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      • #4
        All of the Packard Hawk mylar reproductions, that I remember, came with an adhesive back. It was just peel and stick (carefully).
        Gary L.
        Wappinger, NY

        SDC member since 1968
        Studebaker enthusiast much longer

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        • #5
          The glue used for vinyl tops should be adequate. CHEERS jimmijim
          sigpicAnything worth doing deserves your best shot. Do it right the first time. When you're done you will know it. { I'm just the guy who thinks he knows everything, my buddy is the guy who knows everything.} cheers jimmijim*****SDC***** member

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          • #6
            Originally posted by jimmijim8 View Post
            The glue used for vinyl tops should be adequate. CHEERS jimmijim
            I was thinkin the same Jim. The D.A.P. Weldwood, landau roof adhesive is now available in spray cans, instead of 1 gallon only.

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            • #7
              I second the opinion of the Landau top adhesive. In order to position things well do one half (top to bottom) at a time. Lay things out and make a tape or grease pencil mark, then spray 1/2 if the fin, and half of the mylar, reposition the mylar when tacked up, and roll the overlay into position being sure to not get any bubbles or wrinkles. Then flip up the unglued bottom half and mask to prevent overspray. Spray the bottom half of the fin and overlay and then work that into position.
              Bez Auto Alchemy
              573-318-8948
              http://bezautoalchemy.com


              "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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              • #8
                Originally posted by bezhawk View Post
                I second the opinion of the Landau top adhesive. In order to position things well do one half (top to bottom) at a time. Lay things out and make a tape or grease pencil mark, then spray 1/2 if the fin, and half of the mylar, reposition the mylar when tacked up, and roll the overlay into position being sure to not get any bubbles or wrinkles. Then flip up the unglued bottom half and mask to prevent overspray. Spray the bottom half of the fin and overlay and then work that into position.
                That might be a problem Bez. The instructions on this stuff say there is no repositioning or working into place, so must get it right the first time. I just ordered a can so have not used it yet, but that is what the instructions say. If you pull up the ebay link below and go to the pic of the instructions you'll see what I mean, "... bond instantly on contact and work cannot be shifted into place."
                Last edited by JoeHall; 04-14-2014, 05:14 PM.

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                • #9
                  I am also interested the responses here.

                  The replacement mylar I have does not have adhesive on it either, but it is much heavier than the original thin mylar on my original PH. I was going to use the spray adhesive too. I am waiting until I have to repaint the entire car before I start.Click image for larger version

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by JoeHall View Post
                    That might be a problem Bez. The instructions on this stuff say there is no repositioning or working into place, so must get it right the first time. I just ordered a can so have not used it yet, but that is what the instructions say. If you pull up the ebay link below and go to the pic of the instructions you'll see what I mean, "... bond instantly on contact and work cannot be shifted into place."
                    http://www.ebay.com/itm/251496540810...84.m1423.l2649
                    That's why you position it first without any glue, and mark it, then line up the marks and spray 1/2 at a time, with it hanging and roll it into position. Then flip the other half up, spray it and roll it also into place. This way it prevents you from having to place everything in alignment with the glue sticking instantly, and not being able to position anything.
                    Bez Auto Alchemy
                    573-318-8948
                    http://bezautoalchemy.com


                    "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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                    • #11
                      Thanks Bez, it makes sense what you say I will give it a try. As for 55s I am glad you back me up with saying you to have Mylar with no adhesive backing on it either, I thought I might have bought a dud batch.
                      I will post some pics when I give it a try, probably this weekend.
                      Brian Greenall
                      Melbourne, OZ
                      sigpic

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                      • #12
                        Sorry I don't recall the exact product name, but wouldn't 3M company also have something suitable for this job? They make a lot of different automotive adhesive products and their quality is always excellent.

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                        • #13
                          The Mylar job wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be. The material is actual quite thick and didn't prove to be to hard to lay down but I did go down the way that Bez explained and it went without a hitch. I ended up using 3M brand adhesive which worked well, masked the car up and drew a data line that was parallel with the car which I masked the Mylar to then lifted it up in to position after I applied the glue.




                          Just got to wait till I get my SS moulding back from the guy who is repair & polishing them for me.
                          Brian Greenall
                          Melbourne, OZ
                          sigpic

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                          • #14
                            Good looking job!

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                            • #15
                              WOW Brian, as We know just beautiful work ! one Hawk down, "on it's way" one Hawk too go .
                              Joseph R. Zeiger

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